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Old 09-04-2001, 10:51 AM   #1 (permalink)
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f-max turbo kit on a built bottom end H22

whats up guys, I have a few questions, I am going turbo,anyway, how much boost and hp can u push with the f-max kit if u built up the bottom end on the engine,(pistons, rings, sleeves, etc.) Im kinda running tight on the budget but I would imagine that you should be able to get up in the 300+ hp range. Am I right.?? I mean it says on the f-max sight that it got up to 289 or something with the stock engine.. Anyways let me know.. thanks...I would rather go custom but thats a lot of money...
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Old 09-04-2001, 04:44 PM   #2 (permalink)
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With a properly built block(forged pistons & rods, iron sleeved, standalone engine management...etc.) you could push 18-20 pounds of boost, maybe more. You could see 350+ hp, but tuning is the key.
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Old 09-04-2001, 04:58 PM   #3 (permalink)
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positive ..??

are u positive u would be able to see that much hp from the fmax turbo kit with a properly built block, cause that is what I plan on doing. thanks alot.. Does anyone know a place around the chicago area that I can have turbo work done to my car..
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Old 09-04-2001, 10:13 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Not sure how much boost the fmax turbo can push probly around 20psi.The best place to go in Chicago whould be Garage Kwai.i was there a few months ago and they were doing an F-max lude when i was there.It was a black SH.So they are your guys.I think he said they charge around $4k for the turbo and install.They specialize in swaps.
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Old 09-05-2001, 09:39 AM   #5 (permalink)
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If your planning on a full rebuild with the kit make certain you specify the turbo your want. At least a .63 A/R and Stage II trim turbine wheel. Don't let them stick you with anything smaller or you won't be able to put down the horsepower you're looking for.

I would also suggest very strongly to do the engine management properly, get the F-Max kit without the MF2 and Injectors and get a standalone like the Hondata, Haltech, or SpeedPro (FAST) with 750cc injectors.

You should be able to put down 400hp with a fully built block and proper engine management.
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Old 09-05-2001, 01:13 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I have the FMAX kit on a fully built bottom end with fuel management. You should be able to push 350+ on 18 lbs of boost tuned properly. You might want to spring on the ball bearing option on the T3/T4 for ruduced lag.
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Old 09-05-2001, 02:56 PM   #7 (permalink)
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thanks..

thanks alot guys, u really helped me out alot.. Umm, How much would I be looking at spending on a stand alone system.. And what about the ball bearing turbo too. can u get one with the kit from f-max.. and do they tune it for u and all that at the place in chicago..
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Old 09-05-2001, 03:13 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Approximately $1700 for standalone with big injectors.

Sound Performance is a very good aftermarket shop in Chicago.
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Old 09-06-2001, 09:43 PM   #9 (permalink)
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What do you guys think of the F-max kit anyway? Some people say it's inefficient and that it's not recommended if you wanna boost more than 9 psi.
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Old 09-07-2001, 09:10 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by smoothludey
What do you guys think of the F-max kit anyway? Some people say it's inefficient and that it's not recommended if you wanna boost more than 9 psi.
No aftermarket kit is very suitable for over 9 psi. The reason is because of methods used for fuel delivery. You need a standalone engine management system for any higher boost levels to run reliably. Hondata, Haltech, Speed Pro....
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Old 09-07-2001, 09:24 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by inlinefour


No aftermarket kit is very suitable for over 9 psi. The reason is because of methods used for fuel delivery. You need a standalone engine management system for any higher boost levels to run reliably. Hondata, Haltech, Speed Pro....
Is there anything wrong with mating an fmax kit (minus MF2) with say Hondata 2b? I hear people dog on Hondata all the time saying that Haltech and DFI are superior and less expensive. Is this true? What's so bad about Hondata?
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Old 09-07-2001, 09:39 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by smoothludey


Is there anything wrong with mating an fmax kit (minus MF2) with say Hondata 2b? I hear people dog on Hondata all the time saying that Haltech and DFI are superior and less expensive. Is this true? What's so bad about Hondata?
F-Max with Hondata would rock.

Hondata is a little more expensive than other standalones if you want all the features. Hondata is a more plug 'n' play though, it utilizes a factory ecu which just plugs into the factory wiring harness.

I don't care if Hondata costs a couple hundred extra, I am still going to get it, it will save me twice that much in dyno time. Hondata will ship your chip with a base map. Say you are running an H22 with turbo, well they just copy the H22 turbo maps they have already created with other customers cars onto your chip. Saves you time and a boatload of dyno money.
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Old 09-07-2001, 09:47 AM   #13 (permalink)
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thx inline, i needed that vote of confidence. Btw, are you running an f-max kit? Are you running a msd-btm? J&S? How much boost? What are the specs on the turbo you have?
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Old 09-07-2001, 11:41 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by inlinefour
... it will save me twice that much in dyno time
I don't believe that's a true statement, but I definitely don't think anyone who doesn't plan to do there own tuning is doing the wrong thing by getting the Hondata. Like you said, it's more plug and play and definitely easier for those people who aren't as interested in tuning to start off with.
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Old 09-07-2001, 01:39 PM   #15 (permalink)
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What about the Uni-Chip?? I talked with a shop that does them today and it seems like a cheaper, but very clean alternative. I keep hearing that that Stand-Alones require tons of dyno time and history in order to learn to compensate for weather changes etc. The shop I talked to sells and tunes all the computer types, and they recommended the Uni-Chip for a daily driven car over the Haltech and even the new Accel 7.0. I'm hoping someone has some info or history on the Uni-Chip, but from this point it looks like a good choice. It can control fuel delivery, timing, and boost (which I wouldnt use) but it can use additional injectors and control the stock injectors. Any information would be great.
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Old 09-07-2001, 02:12 PM   #16 (permalink)
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The only reference I found on the Uni Chip was this one: http://www.dynoshop.com/dynoshop/chip.html

It uses the same conept as the EFI PMS. It's just a piggyback that modifies the in/out data from the stock ECU. I'm not certain how configureable it is. I wouldn't get one unless you found an installer that was willing to tune it a guarantee the work.
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Old 09-07-2001, 02:16 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by DirtyLude


I don't believe that's a true statement
At $200 an hour with wideband. I rather pay the dyno bill for the guy with the Hondata than the guy with the Haltech.
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Old 09-07-2001, 05:13 PM   #18 (permalink)
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For one, you have incredibly high dyno costs where you are. Another thing, just running the Haltech for as long as I did on the stock car. I can get a very close tune just street tuning the E6K. If you look, there are a few people who are willing to give up maps for boosted B18 or B16 engines mostly that work fine for the H22a as a starter map. I don't believe that getting a base map is all that much of an advantage for people that don't mind working with the maps themselves.

Seriously people make it out to be more of a mystical science than it actually is. Maybe getting that last few horsepower is, but making a workable street tune is fairly basic.

The M&W WideBand UEGO sensor with harness for the E6K is $1000.00 USD which on your dyno would be about 5 hours. You can do all the tuning you want and even run closed loop WOT operation if you want.

Or, just get the SpeedPro. Honda harness, fairly easy to install with stock sensors and comes with it's own wideband and self tuning ability.
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Old 09-07-2001, 05:17 PM   #19 (permalink)
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you cannot compare hondata stage 2b with a true standalone like dfi/speedpro/haltech; they are offering different kind of features. a more appropriate comparison will be hondata stage 4b and dfi/speedpro/haltech. but then again, 96+ hondas have a distinct disadvantage when they go hondata cos of the need to get obd1 ecu and harness = minimum of 500. However, we cannot deny that Doug offers great tech support. To most of the ppl here, that and the plug and play features are the main selling point of hondata.

btw, the local dyno shop charges 185/hr with wideband o2 sensor if you don't have stage 4b. if you have stage 4b, the dyno will only be 135.
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Old 09-07-2001, 05:29 PM   #20 (permalink)
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That's very true. You can't compare the 2b to a programmable generic standalone. I really think the 2b is a great option for those daily driven turbo/supercharged Hondas. I think the 4b lacks the features of the Haltech/SpeedPro/dfi at a more expensive price. People don't like these because there's a fog around them like you have to be a race car technician to use one.

Hondata has done a great job of promoting their product fairly objectively and spreading knowledge in the Honda community. I think Doug is doing an excellent job and offers a good product. I wish companies like Haltech, Fed Mogul, and Accell would get down in the trenches with there customers like he did and promote their product. I think it's their big loss that they don't
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