Originally posted by JRSClude here's my current setup and and most recent dyno sheet. the dyno results are pretty dated. i've added mods since like new exhaust, high flow cat, OBDII workaround, so the results are lower than i'm at right now
Let me clarify. I meant to say similar to built N/A H22A....Higher compression, cams, etc...Satan_Srv (217hp), and Prelude 2.6 (229 hp)comes to mind. There are a number of others but I can't remember their names and some are not on our site.
LOL, I still don't see the point. Higher compression and larger displacement is going to do that. Bumping up the compression significantly is a common way to make more power, and radically increasing the displacement, well, isn't (and I believe that guy is also running crazy compression).
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Last edited by sharkcohen; 10-13-2003 at 05:07 PM.
Originally posted by THEDREAD Let me clarify. I meant to say similar to built N/A H22A....Higher compression, cams, etc...Satan_Srv (217hp), and Prelude 2.6 (229 hp)comes to mind. There are a number of others but I can't remember their names and some are not on our site.
sure, you can get 220whp with an n/a setup. it's damn hard and takes a ton of money : increased compression, increased displacement (i.e. new pistons and rods and a rebuilt bottom end), injectors, fuel & timing management, cams, cam gears, intake, header, exhaust, and a pile of tuning $$$. and then if you're LUCKY you get 220whp. LUCKY. satan's dyno is on a dynapack, which means you really can't compare it to most of the dynos here. go over in the N/A forum and ask for 220whp dynos and you'll get... a booming silence.
again, it's possible, but to say 'similar to many n/a setups' trivializes the amount of time and money and know-how it takes to get 220whp n/a out of a lude. on the other hand, you can buy a $3,000 jrsc, bolt in on yourself over the weekend and have that much power right out of the box. i'm not arguing one is better than the other (i drive an n/a honda now ) and that's not the purpose of this thread, but an 'average' power level for a jrsc out of the box is equivalent to an extremely impressive, highly tuned, well designed and RARE n/a setup.
No doubt if you have a "good" engine the jrsc is more cost effective. However, if you have a high mileage 93 to 96 lude (not supported by jr) then the cost difference becomes insignificant. I've seen dynos of ludes costing from $4000 to $8000 with SAE HP in the 210 to 230 ranges built by JG Engine Dynamics, Prospeed, and Erick's Racing (all from SC). The critical components in all cases were higher compression, cams, head work, and lots of dyno tuning. Unfortunately, most of the owners are not members of our site.
I am adding the topic of track timeslips to this thread. People are welcome to post their track times in here, and are heavily encouraged to include a copy of their timeslip, just as we do with the dynos. The only thing I ask is that there be no posts regarding street racing.
Originally posted by sharkcohen I am adding the topic of track timeslips to this thread. People are welcome to post their track times in here, and are heavily encouraged to include a copy of their timeslip, just as we do with the dynos. The only thing I ask is that there be no posts regarding street racing.
Here you go...my personal best. This is 14psi on pump gas w/ 24.5" M&H's
__________________ Allan
'91 MR2 SW20 Turbo - 2.2 TD06 20G Stroked - Future track whore
'99 Prelude Base 5MT Premium Pearl White - Sold
'98 Prelude Base 5MT Diamond White Pearl - Sold
Originally posted by THEDREAD Let me clarify. I meant to say similar to built N/A H22A....Higher compression, cams, etc...Satan_Srv (217hp), and Prelude 2.6 (229 hp)comes to mind. There are a number of others but I can't remember their names and some are not on our site.
Some N/A's might be getting close in hp numbers after spending 15K in the motor, but look at the torque numbers. Also remember that the Sport Shifts don't make nearly the power as the manuels do, with exception to Sharkcohen's. There's plenty of supercharged ludes making good power off 6psi. I made 239 with the JR w/I/H/E, and 99preludeLC made 256 w/I/H/E, injectors and VAFC. The superchargers are making the same power as turbo's on 6psi if not more.
Originally posted by Rick Bailey wow looks like to run a 12.5 costs over 15k waist of money unless your rich
Actually I could likely reproduce my current setup for a fair share less than "15K"...not to mention while it runs mid 12's on pump gas at 13psi, the motor's built to handle _substantially_ more.
--Ian
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'01 Prelude SH w/ stuff
12.3@118
Yeah man, I'm running the JR electonics.... What should the curve look like? I've been meaning to get rid of the JR stuff, and run 440's + VAFC hack.. but I've been too lazy to install the stuff.. Would that make more HP along with a better AF?
Take a look at the other JRSC dynos on the previous page, you'll see that they have nice flat torque curves below 4k rpm (other than mine). I haven't yet figured out why my torque below 4k is off, and yours is the first JRSC dyno I've seen other than mine to look like that. Mine feels weak between 3k-4k as well, like it isn't producing torque there.
Considering we have completely different management, but a similar problem, it is possible that we have a common cause for this in one or more stock components. I've suspected my ignition components (cap, rotor, wires), as they are the factory pieces with almost 50k miles on them.
You probably won't see a performance benefit from changing over your management, just peace of mind.
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Last edited by sharkcohen; 02-26-2004 at 01:57 AM.
Just got back from the dyno today! Good news! 240.2 whp and 200.6 wtq.
CO2 was used to cool the charger between runs and the BTC was set to stock timing because I mixed a half gallon of Toluene in with my gas. Pulls like a mother. Tuned on the street with the wideband.
My mods are:
JRSC 6lb pulley
AEM CAI
DC Ceramic Header
2.5" straight pipe
STOCK EXHAUST (changed back yesterday)
Hondata IM gasket
VAFC
ES Motor Mount Inserts
AEM underdrive pulleys
PLX Wideband
built h23 block and head. t3/t67 turbo hondata tuned (partially). head studs were backin out the whole day so this got cut short. pissed coolant/oil all on the dyno on this run . also having ignition problems so it wouldnt pick up the rpm or torque. hopefully i'll fix the ignition problem and get the head stud problem fixed soon and have better numbers soon.
I might have the first Full-Race kit in a BB6, and well, its realy amazing:
Here is the setup:
F-R stage one kit with a top mount equal length manifold, FMIC
GT28RS60 turbo
Neptune on a P28 (by by ATTS, for the moment) tuned by jeff evans
AEM, cam spockets and pulleys
2.5" cat and exhaust
750cc RC injectors and a walbro
H22A4 stock with 97K on the odometer
this on on 8.1psi of boost
soooooo much torque! I could rave and rave about drivability, or the yelp/screach sound my wife makes when I floor it, but the graph speaks for itself... Full Race makes well engineered parts, you get what you pay for...
ps... this is on 93octane, and detuned a bit (forget what A/F was, about ~12:1 at WOT) to be safe. Before the de-tune it made 310whp, again on 8.1psi
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Last edited by leptolude; 11-30-2005 at 10:15 AM.
Reason: MAP actualy reached 8.1psi
back in july w/ small turbonetics turbo.
put in the new wiseco 9.1comp pistons myself.... no more bs shops touching my car after all teh money and headaches ive been through.
safe tune 13psi... RELIABLE... built motor... i just installed my new bb precision turbo a couple weeks ago... getting retuned in the spring.. w/ more goodies.
slipping clutch and header bolts fell out causing the wideband to stop reading accurately oh well. happy with the numbers though. you can see where the clutch started slipping around 6k....
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Is THIS really the "change" everyone was hoping for? I think not...
1997 Base, H22A, 5 Spd w/Leather.
JRSC - 9psi
215whp, 189wtq with clutch slipping
Exedy Stage 1 Clutch (worthless)
Auto>Manual Tensioner Conv.
Precision 525cc High Impedance Injectors
Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
Accord Crank Pulley
K&N drop in filter
Kamikaze Header with 2.5" collector
Mandrel Bent 3" Kteller piping
Here is my car making 351whp and 284wtq in June of 2008. First dyno sheet is my one pass, and the second is showing the difference between having a 3" CAT to one punch out with a couple more PSI
my build 259 hp. ge built motor, jrsc making 10 psi, 08 RL front calipers,tein flex,m factory lsd. waiting for lht performance aftercooler. hopefully be able to make 290
Oh, I'll finally post mine up.
Stock 1999 Engine
JRSC w/Accord Crank Pulley (9psi peak, dropping to 5-6psi at about 5krpm due to belt slippage.)
K&N cone filter on generic intake
Stock header, gutted cat
GReddy EVO2 exhaust
P28 ECU w/older Hondata Stage 3b
AEM cam gears (not adjusted)
Tuned VERY rich (real-time display showed low 11's and even high 10's!)
221whp 186lb-ft
I feel I should be closer to 250whp when I eliminate belt slippage.
I'll probably also change the header/(gutted) cat, adjust the cam gears and re-tune.
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) and that's not the purpose of this thread, but an 'average' power level for a jrsc out of the box is equivalent to an extremely impressive, highly tuned, well designed and RARE n/a setup.
What are the specs of your car?
oh well. happy with the numbers though. you can see where the clutch started slipping around 6k....
Linear Mode
