I am getting my car dyno'd on friday. I finally came up with the money to get my car on the dyno. My questions is, where do I start on the tuning? I just have the sc and the jr electronics with it, AEM pullies, Intake, Kami Header, Greddy sp catback with carsound cat and a VAFC. So should I set my AFC to 0% and BTC to maybe 5-6 clicks pass min and starting tuning the air/fuel and BTC for detonation? Then how do I tune the vtec setting? Any help is appreciated. I have searched, but unable to find answer to these specific questions.
I have a SS lude. I noticed the dyno'd mt lude make on average of 20-30 hp more than the ss. That's alot of hp lost due to tranny. So I am thinking about coverting to manual the beginning of next year. I am slowly buying the parts and saving up for the labor (500 at my local shop). Does the car have to be dyno'd again because of the tranny swap?
Does anyone know a good place that sells the kit for a cheap price? Any help is appreciated.
Shark: You have a 9psi lude right? What hp are you getting out of it. My other option to the tranny swap is to upgrade to 9lb pulley and upgrade fuel system.
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I say go to the dyno and just do a baseline run with an O2 reading but don't tune it. I used to be SS with JRSC and I made 192whp and 161 tq with i/e/p untuned on 4 clicks.
What I did afterwards was saved up for a J&S v2 Safeguard and then ran stock timing with the J&S watching my back and also picked up a mugen header. I would estimate I was making around 200whp by then.
I rode around for awhile until I finally found a really good deal on 5-speed trans and related parts. Now my 5-speed swap has been completed and I have to go pick up the car on wed
So you don't think I should tune it to set the BTC, VTEC and Air/fuel. I thought it's almost a sin to run jrsc untuned? =) Well, Where did you get the 5spd swap kit? I am looking for one.
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Well I live in Chicago. The cold ass chicago winter came around the time when I got the JRSC so I had the wether on my side along with the convienience of 93 octance fuel. You could tune the a/f ratio and vtec setting if u'd like, but I mean all u need is a baseline dyno with a/f ratio reading and to do some basic tuning urself.
Shark: You have a 9psi lude right? What hp are you getting out of it.
I still don't know.
I would start by setting the BTC to 8 clicks, set the baseline fuel pressure to around 70-72 psi (you MUST have a fuel pressure gauge, check here to set your baseline pressure: http://home.tampabay.rr.com/prelude/faq.html#mpg), zero out the VAFC settings, and run a baseline. Hopefully you will run rich, and then be able to lean areas of the a/f curve out with the VAFC. If you run lean on the baseline, you aren't going to be able to set your fuel pressure much higher (the JR FMU doesn't have a large degree of adjustability), and you are not going to be able to add fuel with the VAFC.
If all goes well up to this point, then you can start lowering the BTC toward "minimum". I suggest doing this one click at a time, performing a run on the dyno, and reviewing the results, looking for detonation and making fuel adjustments (as the a/f will change along with timing changes). I personally would set it back towards "max" one or two clicks after getting it as low as I could, just to be conservative.
After all this, you can try lowering the vtec setting. I would lower it to just after the low cam part of the power curve begins to drop off, then perform a run, look at the results, and make any necessary fuel and/or vtec adjustments.
Target a/f should be 12.5:1.
YOU NEED A FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE.
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Last edited by sharkcohen : 09-23-2003 at 01:42 PM.
Yea I think shark thats a good idea. I have been running my JRSC lude untuned for a year now and luckily I have not pinged yet. Shark u think 440cc injectors and vafc are enough to run 9 psi? If i do get the 440's could I ditch the JR ems and fmu?
Yes, that's what I meant by VAFC hack. But like I said, it would have to be carefully tuned, and you would have to pull more timing than you might think, because the hack will advance your timing during boost.
You have a manual tranny now, save your money for Hondata
I plan on staying at 6 psi of boost as is. My plans are to ditch the JR electronics, upgrade to 440cc injectors, get either fluidyne or C&R radiator, and tune it all out. What do u think?
Originally posted by vir2L What kind of gains u think I could get from a fluidyne radiator? Besides the benefit of lower intake temps what could I gain?
Radiator isn't going to affect your intake temps If you are referring to the coolant bypass in the throttle body, I doubt there would be a significant impact. If you want cooler intake temps, get the Hondata gasket. Cooler coolant temps would be one way of preventing detonation, but you will also lose power.
Originally posted by vir2L I plan on staying at 6 psi of boost as is. My plans are to ditch the JR electronics, upgrade to 440cc injectors, get either fluidyne or C&R radiator, and tune it all out. What do u think?
I think you would be fine, provided it is well tuned.
I think he's saying, since the engine is running slightly cooler, their will be more internal losses due to lower temps, as in, oil temps. less viscus oil = more losses) since intake temps will bacically be the same, you may loose soome power.
A cooler running engine will produce less power, from what I have read. I don't see a need for an aftermarket radiator on a JRSC setup. My Mugen components (radiator cap, fan switch, thermostat) appear to be running my engine cooler than the stock components, when compared to datalogs I have done on other 5th gens.
I think I am just going to pick up then a hondata IM gasket and 440cc injectors then. I am already running stock timing with the J&S watching my back. With the vafc tuned will I be more prone to detonate?
So I am not able to enrich fuel with the AFC if it runs lean on the base run if the setting is at 0? It Revs gave me his afc settings, I noticed that his settings are from +5% to +19% at higher rpms. Is that not possible?
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My Complete Part out thread
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There is very little room to enrich with the VAFC as the stock injectors are already nearly maxed out, and this small window will vary from car to car.
If you are referring to the coolant bypass in the throttle body, I doubt there would be a significant impact. If you want cooler intake temps, get the Hondata gasket. Cooler coolant temps would be one way of preventing detonation, but you will also lose power.
