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Old 10-20-2011, 04:25 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Durable Supercharged H22a4

Here's a copy of my post in the other forum, just figured I'd put it in both places to get maximum exposure and input!

I just bought a 1999 base with the 4speed SportShift. Any expensive modifications are a ways off, but I'm a dreamer and a planner, and the longer I know exactly what I want to do, the more time I have to wait for the good deals. (I'm also a complete novice, but have been lurking these forums for several days, learning what I want to do.)

Eventually, I want to supercharge my 'lude to somewhere around 250-300(maybe more?)whp, and I want the drive train to last with minimal maintenance for as long as possible, we're talking hundreds of thousands of miles, or, you know, the legendary Honda durability. I know this is a tall order, but it seems that if I do it right, it shouldn't be impossible. There are a couple of people I'm looking for some good advice from, most specifically Geramy, because our goals seem similar and you clearly have a ton of experience and quite a bit of success. Externally, I want the car to be plain, but good-looking; something that indicates it's well taken care of but lies about how much power it actually has. Here's what I'm thinking so far:

1. The Block: send my block in to Darton for installation of their M.I.D. (I've read that open-deck solutions like Darton's (which seems more like a hybrid between open and closed) are good up to the mid 20's, I shouldn't need more than 12psi or so, but will it be as durable as I want?)

2. The Internals: CP pistons with Carrillo rods (since they're working together now). I want to have everything 'coated' but I don't really know what this means or who does it, any suggestions? (edit: Forgot the injectors! RC 1000cc)

3. The Crank: Haven't learned very much about this one, what do I need to do here? Micro-polish, knife edge, remove balancing thingy, etc...

4. The Cams/Valves: Do I need to make any changes here? Will stock last just fine or should I try something by Skunk2?

5. The Supercharger: Jackson Racing is almost the only option, they're now about $3,400 new. Endyn's website says they're making custom blowers for Hondas, which--given their respective reputations--seems like the much better option. They say I'll need to provide an M62 Counter-Clockwise Rotating Supercharger and a Magnesun bypass valve, which makes me think that the cost will be higher than just the regular JSRC kit. Endyn says they do supercharger modification for more boost and longer life, which sounds good to me. They also say their blower is so efficient as to not need an intercooler. Would it be worth it? Do I need special cooling? Will the G-Force Hood be enough on it's own?

6. The Intake: BPI Flow Stack 3.5". I hear it's just as good as AEM V2 and way cheaper. Looks like I might have to supply my own tubing though.

7. The Exhaust Header: So many options here. Looks like the best value (price:quality) would be the Lovefab, but I'm open to suggestions. Goal is to put it into a 3" collector, run it through a high-flow cat (any suggestions?) and then make it as quiet as possible without losing too much flow (any more suggestions?).

8. The Tuner: AEM PEMS. I hear it's the best and the most important part to any boost set up. I'll probably put it in the hands of Honda Bob, if he's willing. He's relatively nearby.

9. The Transmission: I'm planning on just using the manumatic until it dies then switching to something that will handle torque better. By that time, I'll be willing to give up the convenience of the manumatic for a manual that can take the punishment; any suggestions for a reliable, durable, but easy swap?

10. The Extras: H23 Manual Timing Belt Tensioner; Denso Iridium Plugs (I hear IK22 is good for hotter applications); Denso OEM Wires; OEM Flywheel (better drivability).

11. The Questionables: G-Force Hood; Oil Cooler; Custom Engine Cooling; Anything I Missed?

12. The Externals: OEM JDM Lip Kit; Stock Wheels; No Spoiler; Maybe Lowered; Performance Tires of Some Kind.

What did I forget? What else will I need to do? Will the car do what I want? What should I expect to pay for installation of something like this? Who can I trust to do an excellent job?

Any input is helpful, but please don't turn the thread into a supercharger vs. turbocharger debate. I want immediate response, low-end torque, durability, and driveability and don't care at all about top speed beyond 150 or so.

Last edited by playludesc; 10-20-2011 at 04:45 PM.
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Old 10-20-2011, 09:59 PM   #2 (permalink)
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yeah you'll have to get rid of that trans sooner or later, 5th gens r just trash. i think most ppl do 4th gen Manuel tran swaps

also something about the accords having lower ratios or something i haven't really researched it but heard.
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Old 10-21-2011, 09:38 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks for the info! Do you have a build thread around here? With that much whp I'm assuming you're running a turbo at incredible boost, who did your engine build? What sleeves, pistons, and rods did you use? Is she a nightmare to maintain?
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Old 10-22-2011, 08:32 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Playludesc...

Most of your info is pretty good, but I would recommend talking to who ever you are going to have do the work and tune. They will tell you what they feel comfortable working with and what parts they recommend.

Your info says that your in Fort Collins... If you are then your in luck. The shop that did all the work on my car is there. PFI Speed. They just recently moved to a bigger and much nicer shop in Johnstown (just south on I-25) Brent, and or Brandon ("B") there can tell you everything that you need done to support the SC build.

Hitting the power goal of 300whp with the JRSC will be difficult, but it can be done. Probably not thru the auto trans though. Also it limits the tuning that can be done as your only option is to run a piggy back ECU.

Check out the For Sale forum, There is an Endyn SC for sale there.


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Old 10-24-2011, 10:16 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks for the referral! The guy at my local parts shop suggested them and now that I've got your input, I'm quite excited to start working with PFI. I've heard that you built your engine after you installed the SC so you could work towards more boost. Is it advisable to run the SC without building the block as long as I get a good tune? In the long term, I definitely plan to still sleeve it and get new pistons, etc, but I'm getting kind of antsy about getting more power asap. I figure if I just use the 6psi pulleys and get it tuned everything should work out in the short term. Are there any extra precautions I should take if I'm running FI without a reinforced engine?
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Old 10-24-2011, 10:21 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I ran my SC on my stock block for about 4 years, I had a meltdown after a week, but it turned out the motor was bad before the SC install. I got a hold of a used stock bottom end and ran on that for about 4 years. 2 of those years was at 9psi.

If your going to try to run the SC on your stock internals do some tests on it first. Leak down and compression, if they turn out good you should be able to run 6-9psi with a good tune with no problem.
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Old 10-27-2011, 10:24 AM   #7 (permalink)
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You forgot about injectors and gauges.. I would get 550cc's injectors.. And oil pressure, maybe oil temp and others.. Drawing a blank righ now.. Oh a colder spark plugs

The most important thing IS tuning.. Glad you already realize this.. Talk to your tuner and see what he recommends and works with..

Stock block+stock jr 6psi+ a GOOD header and full exhaust+hi flow cat or no cat.. Will get you pretty close to your goal.. Depending on how healthy you engine is


You could get the accord crank pulley to make 9psi but you should build the block if you're pushing more than psi.. The supervharger also gets hot at this point.. Edyn would be better but cost more..

Whatever you do.. Get gatorback belts.. I'm sure I forgot some stuff
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Old 10-27-2011, 12:52 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I lucked out and actually snagged geramy's old SC. For the next couple of years I'm thinking I'll run around 6psi on stock everything, then save up to do an engine build, exhaust, and tranny all at once, then boost like mad. Geramy got 21psi out of this same JRSC and I think if I can modify the bypass valve to slowly close and build boost gradually at low RPMs, I can over come the issues he had with tuning and clutch-destruction. I'm pretty stoked and you can bet I'll document the process here once it gets rolling.

Another question to the wise though: Should I wait till spring to put the SC on? Will the extra power at 6psi or so of boost make the car less manageable in weather? I know I'll be dealing with a lot of extra power, but will it be squirrely? Will it take long for me to learn how to dirve it well in snow? I'm a fairly decent driver, and I've successfully driven some very powerful cars, but never in snow/rain. Should I wait for safety's sake? (No ATTS, btw.)
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Old 10-27-2011, 02:02 PM   #9 (permalink)
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You don't need to wait until spring to install it.. It won't effect drivability.. And the charger loves the colder air

It's a fwd so it will be fine in the snow... just floor it in a turn

Might be a different story when it has 19psi
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Old 10-31-2011, 01:54 PM   #10 (permalink)
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6 and 9psi shouldnt be any problem in the snow... I drove around Colorado with my Prelude all the time. Runs about like stock until you get the bypass to close.

Winter driving is all about the tires, and your braking habits anyway.

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Old 11-02-2011, 04:39 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Agreed, thanks for the input!
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Old 11-02-2011, 08:33 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I'm picking up a jrsc within the next week so this is some nice to know info. I have it for sale but I may have to just install it lol..
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