98SS

Guys:
Finally got around to install the Greddy turbo this past weekend.
TYPE 31 IC. Type S BOV and on stock block.
After the dyno I realise I have a butt load of more tunning to do.
Since then I have changed spark plug wires and tidy up some minor wiring and wraping etc.
The only mistake was we left one of the coolant hose a little lose. So under load it would squirt out coolant. Lucky, caught it and it is fixed.
http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/...8957844925.jpg
http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/...1254746908.jpg

above are two picture of the car during the install.
However I didn't get the JDM fogs to fit. It was pretty close.

Here is the dyno.
http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/...7335794888.jpg
Keep in mind this is done on 91 octane. With a slight coolant leak and only 5.5-6 PSI of gauge indicated boost.
Since then, I have adjust the waste gate and have gotten up to 7 PSI. Car did feel stronger.
But I really need to get the PMS installed to smooth out the fuel ratio.
Shark, any idea on what a base map should be?
I am debating between having the dyno place tune it for at least 4-500 bucks or spend the money on a Techedge and tune it myself. Idealy I will settle for 8 PSI of max boost and a smooth AF curve.
Car does back fire a little during some part throttle runs up to 5+ psi in full auto mode in between shifts that is. Boost level is holding steady at max. Doesn't happen in SS mode.
Idle is smooth, just like stock. In vacuum car runs good but I sometimes hear a slight tap noise, not sure if it is knock or is it exhaust leak.
Problem goes away when I am in SS mode.
So far tranny is holding just fine.
I've gotten intermittent CEL 45 and CEL 12. CEL 12 is probably due to CEL 45 and all the problems are linked to me running rich.
I didn't expect the stock FMU from Greddy to be so rich. Maybe I just got a funky unit?
Anyhow I think PMS is the next step. It's already sitting in my living room.
Again, this is work in progress and I've been lurking and reading other people's post and dyno for a while to make this purchase decision.
Any inputs, and helps are welcome.

 

flip1199

larger turbo and more tuning. What happened at 5k. your power dipped and you got really rich??

__________________
The DARKSIDE awaits you!!

360 whp
409.9 ft-lbs of torque
gotta love a turbo h23...

NtPReLuDe

You deffinately need something to take some fuel out. Greddy kits out of the box run pig rich, it's part of their "remedy" to detonation.

JonBaker99

Yeah looks like definitly a tuning issue. You need to lean out your air/fuel at your VTEC crossovr point. Just by guessing from the dyno looks like your ran way richer than you needed to. PMS should solve the problem with a few hours of dyno tuning. You may also want to invest in a J&S safeguard to prvent detonation when you start taking fuel out.

__________________
Jon Baker
Leaking oil? No thats just sweat from all the horsepower...


GOT M.O.A.B.?

98SS

Yep it sure looks like it.
At least rich is better than lean.
I am just anxious to get the PMS to work and see what this car is really able to put down.

sharkcohen

What size injectors will you be running with the PMS? I suggest at least 440s so that you can drop the FMU and run the stock pressure. I also recommend larger than 550s in case you decide you would like to explore higher boost pressures (they also leave a lot more room for tuning).

When you are ready to work with the PMS, let me know and I'll help you out with it. Right now I am re-evaluating my approach to it. You will need an OBDII datalogger for monitoring your long term fuel trim output for setting up the "basemap".

__________________

mouchyn

have you guys read any of the articles regarding VTEC and forced induction?

www.theoldone.com has some great information on forced induction and hondas.

From what i've read, and my personal experience, VTEC hurts turbo performance more than you would think. When you're forcing air into the head, the change in cam profiles is almost entirely useless.

constant cam profile=constant fuel/air flow. if you disable VTEC, you can more easily and more productively tune your fuel maps/curves and get the most out of your boost.

I've helped install turbos and superchargers on various preludes, integras, and civics and all of them performed better with VTEC disabled.

just a thought....might be worth exploring.

sharkcohen

I'm going to respectfully disagree with you regarding vtec, mouchyn. Dyno graphs of well tuned vehicles I have seen have outputed wonderfully flat a/f and torque curves with the proper tuning and the vtec engagement appropriately placed.

__________________

98SS

thanks for the offer Shark. I will have to do that when the PMS is up and running.
As for injector, the Greddy kit come with RC 370. So far I am running so rich with those injector, I don't think I need anything higher for the moment. Maybe when I go to 9 PSI will need larger injectors. For now I just want to get a nice solid 7 PSI map running with the current setup.
I think that is certainly possible with the RC 370.
Your thoughts? Cause right now running lean isn't my worry, I am actually running way too rich at the moment.
If you haven't replace your spark plugs and wires yet, you may want to do that.
I replaced my few years old MSD wires last night and the car is running a lot smoother now.
Althought power still doesn't feel anywhere close to 220 HP at the wheel. Maybe closer to 200 HP at the wheel now.
However I am loving the torque spike at 3k on the power band.
Passing is so painless now.
As for VTEC. I would like to learn how to wire up the N20 option on the PMS and use that to activate VTEC and do a VTEC map.
But for now, stock setting will do till I get it all tunned in more.
98SS

ziggity

i will second that thought i disabled vtec and made horrible power and crappy curve, i also tried lowering the vtec to an extremely low level and same results the best way is to find the sweet spot and my curve looks like stock only more power

__________________

20th anniversary Prelude SH Turbo'd