Done with Jackson Blower swap into H22 Civic - Honda Prelude Forum

willybv · 11-05-2009, 11:34 PM

Done with the blower install, finally! The end result in fitting the blower on an H22 EG Civic is that there are about ten areas with less than a millimeter of clearance. Proportioning valve was relocated with soft lines, what seemed like a couple of pounds of aluminum was shaved off the jackshaft bracket, trimmed the mount bolts, and countless other things. The engine bay was red originally, so I pulled the motor to paint it and get some room to prep the car. Just finished wiring the front pusher fan, and rebuilding the blower/jackshaft assembly. Also switched out the Type-S cams for the OEM cams, as the Type-S cams aren't good for forced induction, as we all know. Having a lift makes this a lot nicer, so I can't complain too much about the work, because I respect the guys who do it one the ground!
The car will be tuned in a week or so, then hit the strip before it closes! Modifications include:
-Hondata S300
-RC550 Injectors
-MSD 6AL2 box, wires, cap and rotor
-Koni shocks/Skunk2 springs
-Blox front and rear camber kit and rear aluminum lower control arms
-Nitto NT555R drag radials
-Phanton Grip posi-traction locker w/ gold springs
-Kirkey aluminiun drag seat (a little redneck, but it was light and $20)
-5-point harness/harness bar
-Integra rear disk w/ proportioning valve
-Gude racing throttle body and intake track
-Progress rear sway bar
-Avid mounts w/ CNCed solid mount spacer (with the clearances here, if this motor starts shaking too much, stuff is going to start coming off...)
-Wrapped header, 2 1/5 exhaust
-3" Radiator with pusher and puller fan.

I really wanted a blower, because I drag race mainly, and the power curve is great with this unit. Ideally, Comptech would cave in to my regular demands that they make a centrifugal blower for this motor, but no luck (Comptech: If you're reading this, make a centrifugal blower for an H22, or else!). Retrospectively, I probably could have fabricated in their Integra blower with less work than this, but it's expensive, and the Roots-style blowers sound cool! Some haters will probably say, 'you should have just turbocharged it and made more power. You could have installed that in a day.' To that I reply: you are completely right. That would have been way smarter, easier, faster, and would not have had me at times questioning why I was sitting in the middle of my engine bay at 2am in my garage covered in paint, brake fluid, and the stench of fleeting dreams, but this setup should work well for a drag car, and I'm reasonably happy with how it's turning out. Plus you don't see it done everyday.
With everything above listed except the blower, the car was running 14.3 @100 mph. I live in New Mexico, which is higher than Denver, so don't flame me for only running low 14's in a 2300 lb H22 Civic

. It doesn't hook up at all, either. All motor, it dyno'ed at 191hp and 156 tq, which I was happy with for an H22A motor that hadn't had that much done to it. I'd like 225 hp with the blower, and I only want to break into the 13's, which should be easy with the supercharger on. Let me know what you think! Below: The first picture is the 'before' with the lame minime swap I bought the car with. Next photo is me doing the cams, then the last two are the end result.

jimnissan · 11-06-2009, 02:14 AM

if you plain on keeping it and abusing it on the drag strip you might want tothink about building it. H22 will blow under boost.
Its not a matter of IF only of WHEN....

that is pretty good HP for Albuquerque, I,ve seen moded H22 not make that at see level

jimnissan · 11-06-2009, 02:15 AM

can you say shoehorn

jonbar87 · 11-06-2009, 06:08 PM

Awesome dude!! I've been wanting to see a write up on this car like this for a long time!

Artifex · 11-06-2009, 08:45 PM

Wow, props for pulling this off.

However, I strongly recommend against the phantom-grip ("random-slip"). It will eat your diff up with too much use. It relies on direct friction, which actually wears down the spider gears and eventually breaks them. When this happens, it's likely that the bits will get into the rest of the tranny, and destroy more stuff. It's ultimately your call, but don't say I didn't warn you...

jonbar87 · 11-07-2009, 11:07 AM

how are you running it without the power steering spacer/adapter bracket? I tried that on mine but it kept shearing the small bolt that bolts to the alternator spacer bracket off, so i ended up putting it back on.

willybv · 11-07-2009, 02:05 PM

As for the phantom grip, I've heard the same. As it is I don't drive the car too much, and I'm not planning on bracket racing every weekend, so I'll hope for the best. It's been in the car for about a year with no problems so far.
In regards to the ps adapter, I'm having to run without it because JR doesn't make it anymore (that was your problem?). They sent me the machine shop blueprints for the bracket, so I may have it made, but as it's such a dimensionally complex part, I'll likely just run a bracket over to the original PS pump bracket to keep the pulley assembly stable.
Gets dyno/street tuned on friday, and I'll try to get over to the strip then, so I'll update on 1/4 times.

jonbar87 · 11-07-2009, 07:18 PM

well no, i was running the ps adapter, but one day it sheared off all three ps bolts, AND the alternator bracket spacer bolt, so I had to run it for awhile with just the alternator bolt, but it kept shearing that off. So I tapped out the holes in the block and re threaded them with 1/2 course threads and now it's seeming to hold...

willybv · 11-10-2009, 03:24 PM

Jonbar,

I was still working on figuring out that bracket when I posted pictures, but your story of shearing bolt off motivated me to get it figured out! I'm not running all kinds of boost like you, but I figure it's still there for a reason, right?
What I ended up doing was taking the passenger side intermediary motor mount bracket from a K24 motor, and hitting it with a few hours of filing, grinding and acetylene-powered metal removal. Sandbalsted and painted it to try to make it look like it should be there in some ghetto alternate universe. I bracketed it to the OEM PS pump bracket with a cut piece of an EG civic AC belt tensioner, and some spacers. Elegant? No. But it's all Honda parts, and it should work well, even if it gets me a few points docked at the Concours d'Elegance.

Pictures below, I'll add some more pictures of the build later, for fun.

jonbar87 · 11-10-2009, 04:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by willybv

Jonbar,

I was still working on figuring out that bracket when I posted pictures, but your story of shearing bolt off motivated me to get it figured out! I'm not running all kinds of boost like you, but I figure it's still there for a reason, right?
What I ended up doing was taking the passenger side intermediary motor mount bracket from a K24 motor, and hitting it with a few hours of filing, grinding and acetylene-powered metal removal. Sandbalsted and painted it to try to make it look like it should be there in some ghetto alternate universe. I bracketed it to the OEM PS pump bracket with a cut piece of an EG civic AC belt tensioner, and some spacers. Elegant? No. But it's all Honda parts, and it should work well, even if it gets me a few points docked at the Concours d'Elegance.

Pictures below, I'll add some more pictures of the build later, for fun.

sounds like it should work. what I was going to do if i couldn't get the holes tapped properly was just run a long peice of metal across the top of the header bolts, all the way over to the main supercharger bracket and bolt it up that way...but it sounds like what you got going will work just as good. nice job

hopefully you don't run into belt slippage issues like i did....if so, you can always add a pulley...worked wonders:

willybv · 11-12-2009, 07:19 PM

I've seen your post on the extra pulley; very cool idea. At low boost levels I hope I don't need to, but it's a smart easy fix if the belt starts slipping. Also props on your grease fitting idea. I rebuilt the whole jackshaft assembly along with the blower, that thing is still pretty loud, so it's something to think about. I'm posting more pictures about the build process: The first is the garage-spray job on the formally red engine bay. I pulled it to make relocating the proportioning valve easier. The second is the relocated prop valve; I had braided lines made and just moved it down about 8", and cut and reflared all the lines. The next one shows how well the blower didn't fit, I had to grind a lot off and it's still close. Also had to cut the plenum and have someone TIG weld an inside corner to clear the brake booster. The last photo is one of the car (pre JRSC intall) doing what it does worst: autocross. Thought I'd add a picture of the actual car. It's built now to be a relatively streetable drag car, but I used to take it to the SCCA events once in a while to have people laugh at tire-spinning, understeering cone pusher. Put an H22 in your Civic, and it does NOT handle well, even with the Konis and the Skunk2 springs...

Tuning the car tomorrow, wish it luck! (Don't blow up!)

jonbar87 · 11-13-2009, 12:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by willybv

I've seen your post on the extra pulley; very cool idea. At low boost levels I hope I don't need to, but it's a smart easy fix if the belt starts slipping. Also props on your grease fitting idea. I rebuilt the whole jackshaft assembly along with the blower, that thing is still pretty loud, so it's something to think about. I'm posting more pictures about the build process: The first is the garage-spray job on the formally red engine bay. I pulled it to make relocating the proportioning valve easier. The second is the relocated prop valve; I had braided lines made and just moved it down about 8", and cut and reflared all the lines. The next one shows how well the blower didn't fit, I had to grind a lot off and it's still close. Also had to cut the plenum and have someone TIG weld an inside corner to clear the brake booster. The last photo is one of the car (pre JRSC intall) doing what it does worst: autocross. Thought I'd add a picture of the actual car. It's built now to be a relatively streetable drag car, but I used to take it to the SCCA events once in a while to have people laugh at tire-spinning, understeering cone pusher. Put an H22 in your Civic, and it does NOT handle well, even with the Konis and the Skunk2 springs...

Tuning the car tomorrow, wish it luck! (Don't blow up!)

how in the world did you get those pulley's off? I tried every way imaginable and they wouldn't budge so I just ended up adding the zerk.

Nice work on the progress. let us know your hp #'s asap!

willybv · 11-13-2009, 11:05 PM

There are two ways: A slide hammer with something to brace the tongs from bending the pulleys, and an actual pulley puller. I work at a Honda dealership so we have a tool that is made for similar applications, so I used that. Also have a shop press, which I couldn't imagine doing the work without (oven and freezer style). I feel kinda guilty because I have the tools at my disposal for stuff like this. It sucks having to drop a bunch of money on a tool that you're only going to buy once, you know? I'll post dyno results tomorrow.
Also, I saw your thread about selling that kit...did your motor blow or something? I hope not!!

jonbar87 · 11-14-2009, 07:56 PM

nice

yea it's on it's way out. had to get rid of it.

92civlude · 11-14-2009, 09:31 PM

Ok Willy! When are you going to post your mad dyno results? The track closed today. Its going to be a long winter! I'm beat!

willybv · 11-15-2009, 11:24 AM

I'll post them on Monday when I get my scanner going. Yeah, bummer about the track closing in ABQ yesterday. I couldn't go because we have a law saying that if you have a blue collar, you have to work Saturdays. Luckily we open early because of the weather, so it'll just be a few months! Check in Monday for dyno results, they were exciting! (Spoiler alert: the car didn't blow up! Apologies to my friends who showed up and didn't get the promised fireworks show.)

willybv · 11-16-2009, 07:58 PM

Below are the dyno results. Numbers came in a little higher than expected, as I forgot I had put an Accord crank pulley on when I swapped in the H22 a year or so ago, as the Prelude one had been broken in shipping. HP was 248 and torque was 226 ft-lbs. I'm happiest with the torque numbers, as the curve is nice and flat.
I have to give a big plug to Eric Dotson (SasQuatch Creations), who did the tuning. He was recommended by quite a few people at the ABQ Dragway, and I could not have been happier with the tuning work he did. Notice the A/F curve, and how flat he got it; I was very impressed. He said it was putting out about 8 psi total, and drivability is still great with the car. He left it a few degree safe on the timing, so it won't detonate. Our high altitude lets you get away with a bit more than usual, and a higher octane fuel mixture wouldn't hurt. I don't plan on driving the car daily, so hopefully it'll hold together. Next step is some drag slicks and possibly a methanol injection kit, to try and keep it safe.

jonbar87 · 11-17-2009, 01:26 AM

you have 200ft. lbs of torque at 3200rpm...nice! I couldn't wait to see what you were making...now I know. how many degrees of ign was he running at wot? those are some awesome numbers. glad everything worked out for you

TomoGomo · 11-17-2009, 10:02 AM

Hello everybody, sorry to hijack a thread, but since I'm new i don't want to thrash on the main board.
I have a problem installing JRSC in my base Prelude, everything is in place but fuel and wiring ...what I really need is..could somebody PLEASE explain or take pictures how to connect fuel lines when JRSC FMU comes into play? I really can't figure it out .
Also HOW to wire JR "computer"

I found instructions but they are just "connect fuel line', connect vacuum, wire JR ECU"

I've purchased JRSC kit used and have no manual.

Really if jonbar or somebody could photograph in detail how fuel and vacuum routing go i would be more than grateful

Thank YOU
EDIT: please dont flame me i'm in need

jonbar87 · 11-17-2009, 12:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TomoGomo

Hello everybody, sorry to hijack a thread, but since I'm new i don't want to thrash on the main board.
I have a problem installing JRSC in my base Prelude, everything is in place but fuel and wiring ...what I really need is..could somebody PLEASE explain or take pictures how to connect fuel lines when JRSC FMU comes into play? I really can't figure it out .
Also HOW to wire JR "computer"

I found instructions but they are just "connect fuel line', connect vacuum, wire JR ECU"

I've purchased JRSC kit used and have no manual.

Really if jonbar or somebody could photograph in detail how fuel and vacuum routing go i would be more than grateful

Thank YOU
EDIT: please dont flame me i'm in need

Page 12 - 13 for JRSC EMS install------> http://www.supercharger.com/graphics...ns/989-650.pdf

Pages 5 - 7 for ECU pinouts. See attached PDF below.