Just wanted to give you guys a little update on my project.
After a few weeks waiting for my GE "re-re-sleeving" job (warranty returned because it leaked the first time)
Last weekend I undertook to rebuild my engine and guess what, when screwing the crank down in place with new bearings, as I apply the torque, it gradually gets harder to spin, to the point when I barely can turn it, even with a 18" lever! Bad news...
Looks like the water seepage into the oil from the sleeves caused the block to distort and now the crank supports are missaligned.
Luckily, I found a shop where they can do a "crank line bore" within 24 hrs. Cost is around 175$ does that seem to be in the ball park for such a machining task? Anyway, that's where I am today...
I will probably ride my turbo lude again by next wednesday, can't wait!
interesting. yes, $175 sems reasonable to me for that work. when i had my block done by GE, they told me line boring was essential whenever the block was sleeved because the sleeving can distort the block enough to cause the exact problem you describe. when i pressed them on it, and the fact that most people don't have GE do this, they said, "well, that's true, most blocks we see we just sleeve, but we do this with the understanding that whoever takes on the reassembly will be line boring them."
i had them line bore mine, since they were putting it back together, and i am sure it was more than $175. it turned VERY nicely when i got it back.
Quote:
Originally posted by Blaast Just wanted to give you guys a little update on my project.
After a few weeks waiting for my GE "re-re-sleeving" job (warranty returned because it leaked the first time)
Last weekend I undertook to rebuild my engine and guess what, when screwing the crank down in place with new bearings, as I apply the torque, it gradually gets harder to spin, to the point when I barely can turn it, even with a 18" lever! Bad news...
Looks like the water seepage into the oil from the sleeves caused the block to distort and now the crank supports are missaligned.
Luckily, I found a shop where they can do a "crank line bore" within 24 hrs. Cost is around 175$ does that seem to be in the ball park for such a machining task? Anyway, that's where I am today...
I will probably ride my turbo lude again by next wednesday, can't wait!
I swear, I just found out about this "crank line boring" issue by myself, last week-end, when faced to the problem. I have never been warned about this.
Oh well. If this line bore is the last step required to get this toy back on the road, then I don't mind doing it!
when they did mine, i really didn't want to pay for the line boring, so i made them measure it before doing so. it was out by about 5 times the spec, but i don't remember how much that was, and this block was in perfect shape when sent to them.... so i'm thinking your warpage could be the result of your problem, or it could just be the sleeving.
Quote:
Originally posted by Blaast MMmmm... very interresting!
I swear, I just found out about this "crank line boring" issue by myself, last week-end, when faced to the problem. I have never been warned about this.
Oh well. If this line bore is the last step required to get this toy back on the road, then I don't mind doing it!
They upgraded the warranty sheet lately.Â*..
As opposed to when I first got my block sleeved, it now shows a warning note saying that they strongly recommend to use "Bar's Leak" sealant in the coolant system as a preventive measure, to avoid water seepage into the oil.
Too bad it wasn't written the first time around. It would have saved me all the current problems.
Quaalude:
No, in the all new highlighted warning note, they actually recommend the "BAR's Leak" treatment to prevent water seepage into the oil, and it's explained as such. Nothing to do with the oil film recommended for rust prevention while the block is not installed.
Anyway, the "Bar's leak" or "gunk" leak sealer treatment can only be done when the engine is installed and functional, and the coolant system pressurized.
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