Oh my god, im so happy, the EGR CEL IS NOW GONE !!! and also my car is running much much better. It feels sooo much stronger after i did the OBDII workaround, you JRSC Guys with hondata gasket without EGR hole drilled need to try this, attn: FORCEDLUDE!!!!
Later
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Casey----2003 Rally Red Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution *WRECKED*
2003 Weightless White Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution
where have you been iranman, dont see ya on AIM anymore...
School, unfortunately. MCAT's coming up (this Saturday), more exams, finals, then med school applications. ugh.
Hell, I shouldn't even be on these boards, either. *shrugs*
Just to make this back on topic, how hot does the blower/IM area get after a couple spirited runs? Is it still blazing, fry-an-egg-on-it, hot? Also, are you ever going to schedule a dyno appt yet? Have you ordered the Kami header and the rest of the exhaust yet?
School, unfortunately. MCAT's coming up (this Saturday), more exams, finals, then med school applications. ugh.
Hell, I shouldn't even be on these boards, either. *shrugs*
Just to make this back on topic, how hot does the blower/IM area get after a couple spirited runs? Is it still blazing, fry-an-egg-on-it, hot? Also, are you ever going to schedule a dyno appt yet? Have you ordered the Kami header and the rest of the exhaust yet?
Its still hot as hell, but i mean there is a butt dyno, but i dont think a butt temperature gauge. Im getting pretty good EGT's though, 7-800 celcius.
Today i ordered a kamakaze header with 2.5" collector and 2.5" downpipe. and a 2.5" inlet carsound cat that will bolt right up to my 60mm apexi n1..... I expect too see signifigant gains..
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Casey----2003 Rally Red Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution *WRECKED*
2003 Weightless White Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution
Its still hot as hell, but i mean there is a butt dyno, but i dont think a butt temperature gauge. Im getting pretty good EGT's though, 7-800 celcius.
Today i ordered a kamakaze header with 2.5" collector and 2.5" downpipe. and a 2.5" inlet carsound cat that will bolt right up to my 60mm apexi n1..... I expect too see signifigant gains..
Those headers should do you good. They sound nice w/ the blower and N1. So you did the workaround posted on NTPOG? I guess the only disadvantage is that you'll never know any engine codes. Doesn't seem safe. What if something goes wrong with one of the sensors etc...?
you know, I think Ben didn't drill the EGR hole on purpose. I think he's trying to make some loot off of us. I already spend mad loot with him and he wants more for the hole to be drilled. But F*uck that, I'd rather spend my $$ on Hondata and probably try the workaround for the meantime.
Those headers should do you good. They sound nice w/ the blower and N1. So you did the workaround posted on NTPOG? I guess the only disadvantage is that you'll never know any engine codes. Doesn't seem safe. What if something goes wrong with one of the sensors etc...?
Look, have you read the specifics on the OBDII workaround?
If you did, you'd know that instead of simply cutting off the backup-power wire to the ECU, you're inserting a manual switch. 99% of the time, the switch will be in the "off' (open circuit) position to ensure cleared memory.
If you do get an error code while driving, you simply flip the switch "on" (completed circuit), to give the ECU power supply. The ECU will use this power supply to retain memory codes when you turn the key to the Acc(II) position to check the code.
Don't buy the Hondata to fix the code, it's obviously not worth it. Get the Hondata for better fuel & ignition control.
It doesn't take much to do this very very simple electrical modification. I don't know why you continue to blame Ben and avoid even trying the workaround.
Look, have you read the specifics on the OBDII workaround?
If you did, you'd know that instead of simply cutting off the backup-power wire to the ECU, you're inserting a manual switch. 99% of the time, the switch will be in the "off' (open circuit) position to ensure cleared memory.
If you do get an error code while driving, you simply flip the switch "on" (completed circuit), to give the ECU power supply. The ECU will use this power supply to retain memory codes when you turn the key to the Acc(II) position to check the code.
Don't buy the Hondata to fix the code, it's obviously not worth it. Get the Hondata for better fuel & ignition control.
It doesn't take much to do this very very simple electrical modification. I don't know why you continue to blame Ben and avoid even trying the workaround.
Yes...what he said !
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Casey----2003 Rally Red Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution *WRECKED*
2003 Weightless White Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution
Look, have you read the specifics on the OBDII workaround?
If you did, you'd know that instead of simply cutting off the backup-power wire to the ECU, you're inserting a manual switch. 99% of the time, the switch will be in the "off' (open circuit) position to ensure cleared memory.
If you do get an error code while driving, you simply flip the switch "on" (completed circuit), to give the ECU power supply. The ECU will use this power supply to retain memory codes when you turn the key to the Acc(II) position to check the code.
Don't buy the Hondata to fix the code, it's obviously not worth it. Get the Hondata for better fuel & ignition control.
It doesn't take much to do this very very simple electrical modification. I don't know why you continue to blame Ben and avoid even trying the workaround.
Aite Iranman, I'll give it a try today.
I continue to blame Ben because he kept the hole closed on C_Redrums gasket after he did mine and saw that the check engine came on. O well.
Look, have you read the specifics on the OBDII workaround?
If you did, you'd know that instead of simply cutting off the backup-power wire to the ECU, you're inserting a manual switch. 99% of the time, the switch will be in the "off' (open circuit) position to ensure cleared memory.
If you do get an error code while driving, you simply flip the switch "on" (completed circuit), to give the ECU power supply. The ECU will use this power supply to retain memory codes when you turn the key to the Acc(II) position to check the code.
Don't buy the Hondata to fix the code, it's obviously not worth it. Get the Hondata for better fuel & ignition control.
It doesn't take much to do this very very simple electrical modification. I don't know why you continue to blame Ben and avoid even trying the workaround.
I'm not getting Hondata to fix this problem, but to get more power and better economy out of my blower.
So if I leave that switch open all the time, it will still act as if I never put the switch there? Will I still be able to get codes from the ECU if something else goes wrong?
Originally posted by ForcedLude Aite Iranman, I'll give it a try today.
There you go!
Quote:
Originally posted by ForcedLude I continue to blame Ben because he kept the hole closed on C_Redrums gasket after he did mine and saw that the check engine came on. O well.
So? That just proves that having the EGR hole plugged will guarantee a MIL. Big whoop. Same thing happens when the cat is replaced by a test-pipe. Does that mean the shop that installed the test pipe is to be blamed for the MIL? No, the light SHOULD come on, giving you a reason to do the workaround mod.
Quote:
Originally posted by ForcedLude I'm not getting Hondata to fix this problem, but to get more power and better economy out of my blower.
Excellent motive.
Quote:
Originally posted by ForcedLude So if I leave that switch open all the time, it will still act as if I never put the switch there? Will I still be able to get codes from the ECU if something else goes wrong?
Correct: it'll behave as though the backup power supply has been severed permanently.
You will be able to retrieve your codes (if you do get any) by closing the switch and allowing the ECU to retain the code in memory.
Originally posted by C-Redrum Oh my god, im so happy, the EGR CEL IS NOW GONE !!! and also my car is running much much better. It feels sooo much stronger after i did the OBDII workaround, you JRSC Guys with hondata gasket without EGR hole drilled need to try this, attn: FORCEDLUDE!!!!
Later
I asked a very experienced Honda mechanic at Northwest Honda about the EGR system and the possible affects under boost. He said if the EGR hole is closed in addition to the CEL coming on, the cylinders will be running hotter due to the trapped exhaust gases. Or something like that...Can't really re-write exactly what he told me but he recommend that I drill the hole. He thinks there will be a long term side effect to the motor.
Funny, my car seemed like it was running very very hot. It prob from the heat, but it was damn hot.
Originally posted by C-Redrum Yeah, my car is usually hot as balls after i take it for a run, you can really feel the heat just when you open the hood...
Good luck with your car, hope it doesn't blow. I'm getting my EGR drilled this week.
okay, im an idiot, but i really am interested in this obdII workaround, and i just wanna ask, do you install a switch and just manually switch it whenever you start the car? thats what my understanding is. And also, what is all this about Hondata having to do with the OBDII ECU and drilled holes and stuff. Dont blame me for the stupid questions, im just curious
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but they have programmed out EGR operation from the ECU. i'm not saying this is going to cause your car to blow, i'm saying it's something of an unknown.
Quote:
Originally posted by C-Redrum
My car is not going to blow, plenty of people run the hondata gasket w/out EGR hole drilled..
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