Hey guys I have a jrsc on the car right now and since day 1 every once in a while after I get off the gas or cruising at a constant speed my car would start to make that noise. I searched all my pcv hoses are on correctly I rerouted my coolant lines on re fitv and iac. And I no longer have my catch can hooked up to the pcv hose on the iac to sc.
Does anyone have an idea of what it can be? Bad iac valve?
I am not entirely convinced it is the FIV or IACV. However, this seems to be the consensus.
I disagree because my car also makes an occasional burping sound, after it's been turned off, and I tracked it down to the fuel evap canister solenoid. I just disconnected the TB hose that goes to this and I'm going to drive the car and see if the noise subsists...stay tuned!
OK, disconnecting the fuel evap solenoid didn't fix it. So, tomorrow I'll probably get around to removing the FIV and seeing about making a block-off plate for it. If that doesn't work...further investigation!
The only sure-fire solution I recall was Alblude's, which was to get a TB that doesn't use the FIV. Funds are low, right now, so this isn't happening any time soon.
My poor-man's solution to this will be to just use a block-off plate, but it's just a pain to get done when the car is the DD.
<edit> Actually, it just occurred to me, all I have to do is re-route the IACV inlet hose to the intake and block off the air outlet nipple on the FIV. No block-off plate necessary, right? </edit>
Also, I did record the sound on my phone and just uploaded the video. In my own defense, I want to say the frame rate on my phone/computer is easily 5x what it is on youtube. I guess their file conversion ravaged it.
You might not be able to see at 1 fps, but when the engine goes into boost (at about 4 seconds in), the tone changes, but then remains the same when it goes back into vacuum, and even when I goose the throttle again, a few seconds later. Not until I disengage the clutch and blip it again does the noise go away. The "mooing" can be heard over the road noise, supercharger, EVO2 exhaust and even the stereo, sometimes!
This clip doesn't make it sound that bad, but trust me, it's loud...and sometimes it sounds like the cow has been wounded, or is in heat.
I pulled off the hose connecting the FIV and IACV. Now, the IACV inlet hose is
plumbed into the intake pipe (where the breather hose also attaches) and the
FIV outlet is capped off using a big vacuum nipple. All coolant lines are still
intact.
I just drove around for about 20 minutes and no mooing. While this isn't
definitive, it is the longest it's gone without mooing, in weeks!
The downside is that the car now idles rather high, but it's not unbearable. I
think bleeding the coolant system could help this, as I did release some,
futzing with the lines.
yup that's the noise I had. and the way you routed should be fine. What do you have for a management system? if you have an independent system you can lower the IAC duty cycle to have the idle lower
Right now, the car is running an old Hondata Stage 3, meaning I can't personally tune it. Lame. If I can get someone to extract the tune from this one, I'll be switching over to Crome.
What I did so far was rerouted all the coolant lines for the iacv and the fiv so they loop themselves. (i also blocked off the fiv because it broke lol) anyways. the hoses that you routed from the iacv to the intake... is that the same hose that use to come from the SC? i'm a little confused with which hose to connected to the intake
What I did so far was rerouted all the coolant lines for the iacv and the fiv so they loop themselves. (i also blocked off the fiv because it broke lol) anyways. the hoses that you routed from the iacv to the intake... is that the same hose that use to come from the SC? i'm a little confused with which hose to connected to the intake
I didn't do anything with the coolant hoses, at present (still no mooing, days later.)
What I did was take the top hose (assuming mine was connected correctly) from the IACV, which used to connect to a nipple just behind the throttlebody, under the SC elbow, and connected this to the intake pipe (with a T in the breather line.) I then capped off the nipple under the SC elbow. I don't think capping this off is strictly necessary, if you don't have a vacuum cap on hand, but it will stop any crap from getting in your engine, in the long run.
I would leave the coolant flowing through the IACV, so that your idle doesn't suffer (as it might.) I'm not certain if the IACV references coolant temp, or merely uses it to not freeze shut in colder climates.
Oh i see what you did.... I had my IACV coolant lines wrap itself for about a year now with no problems... if you unscrew the 3 bolts under the IACV there is nothing there just a chamber with absolutely no holes....
Oh i see what you did.... I had my IACV coolant lines wrap itself for about a year now with no problems... if you unscrew the 3 bolts under the IACV there is nothing there just a chamber with absolutely no holes....
I put a new IACV well see if that does anything
Did you also bypass the air line from the FIV? Mine is still going strong, still without making any more noise. It does occasionally start to idle at 1500-2000rpm, which is annoying, but I suppose either resetting the idle speed, or putting a restriction in the line to the IACV should fix this.
Did you also bypass the air line from the FIV? Mine is still going strong, still without making any more noise. It does occasionally start to idle at 1500-2000rpm, which is annoying, but I suppose either resetting the idle speed, or putting a restriction in the line to the IACV should fix this.
I also rerouted the FITV coolant lines because my valve broke lol.. I just installed the new IACV just waiting for the sealant to cure so well see what happens!
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