I want to give you some advice, and I think you should follow it. You are down in a pit of problems, and I think what I want to tell you will get you most of the way out.
Passing emissions and getting the car running properly are actually 2 separate problems. The first on your list should be passing emissions.
To pass emissions, you need to disable the turbo. The simplest way to do this is to ziptie the wastegate open. Once the wastegate is all the way open, then next step is to put the original fuel injectors back in. After the injectors are in, the last step is to remove all of the Greddy electronics, which means everything except what came with the car.
Once the car is running on original parts again, the ECU needs to be reset, and the car driven around normally for about an hour or so. It is absolutely crucial that you keep the car under 20% throttle, and always below 4k RPMs. This will get the driving cycle complete, and hopefully you will always stay in closed loop.
Assuming there aren't any codes thrown, you can get inspected at this point. You should pass.
At this point, you should keep driving the car this way until you can get tuned. If I were you, I would definitely get Neptune. When you go to the tuner, bring the larger injectors that you removed (or buy ones which match your power level, see the injector calculator in the FAQ). I don't know whether Neptune comes with the ECU at the tuner, but you can work that out when you call your Neptune guy.
This plan should get the car on the road again. You don't want to wait too long to get your car inspected.
tell me about it!! but I love the damn car wow man, you sure know your stuff by wastegate, you mean the actuator(internal wastegate)?
So I guess I will need to unplug the vacuum hoses that come from the boost controller to various parts of the car(intake)and unplug the blue box.....?Do you think that the VSS,KS,etc are related to the car being boosted? or are those separeate problems(maybe to disable VTEC?) not related to it?
well I guess I'll start saving $$ for the EMS/tunning part. Thanks alot for your advise, I will look into it hopefully by doing this I will get VTEC back to make up for the disabled turbo
This could be a result of the black tape used to hold this wire to the factory harness. I had this code and after hours of troubleshooting, my mech and I traced it to the wire which had come loose from teh factory harness. We ended up soldering the wires together. You may want to get your hands on a service manual as it will help you trace it through the factory harness.
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TwizT aka Trevor
JRSC * Tuned by DL Motorsports * Built by AutoExpress Crew
Do you think that the VSS,KS,etc are related to the car being boosted? or are those separeate problems(maybe to disable VTEC?) not related to it?
The knock sensor, vehicle speed sensor, and BARO sensor codes you are getting have nothing to do with your turbo setup. Either there is something wrong with those sensors, their wiring, or the ECU is bad. Being that the BARO circuit is internal to the ECU, that points to a bad ECU.
The knock sensor, vehicle speed sensor, and BARO sensor codes you are getting have nothing to do with your turbo setup. Either there is something wrong with those sensors, their wiring, or the ECU is bad. Being that the BARO circuit is internal to the ECU, that points to a bad ECU.
The knock sensor, vehicle speed sensor, and BARO sensor codes you are getting have nothing to do with your turbo setup. Either there is something wrong with those sensors, their wiring, or the ECU is bad. Being that the BARO circuit is internal to the ECU, that points to a bad ECU.
I was going to mention this also. VSS and BARO are some unusual codes. Something else is wrong in your setup. I would start with the VSS first. The VSS is physically located in the transmission, but there is a plug on top that sends the signal. Make sure the wiring from the tranny to your ECU is good.
Also, instead of using a zip-tie like I said above, use some hanging wire. I realized that the plastic on the ziptie will melt, because it's next to the turbine. You can go to Home Despot and get a small length of metal wire (in the hardware & fastner section), and wire the actuator arm open.
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