Buying a Greddy Turbo Prelude - Honda Prelude Forum

Sir_Nick · 07-18-2005, 10:33 PM

Here is the car I am buying next week. I am buying it from a close friend and I know that he took care of the car. Any advice on what to do to keep from blowing the motor and just to keep it running proper? I have read some information in this forum but any help is appreciated! Thanks.

1998 Base Prelude
96,000 miles on engine
Full Greddy Turbo Kit (put on at 80,000miles by Apex in Tempe)
Greddy Intercooler
Greddy ProfecB-Spec2 Boost Controller
HKS SSQ BOV
ACT Clutch
DC Sports Short Throw Shifter
Custom Exhaust
Wings West RS Body Kit
18" Rims with Yokohama Parada Tires
Ground Control Coilovers with Koni Adjustables

sharkcohen · 07-18-2005, 11:16 PM

Personally, I would never buy someone elses project, period. But that's just me.

Sir_Nick · 07-18-2005, 11:53 PM

I was looking to buy another Prelude (sold my SS) and I am helping out my friend by taking his. Just looking to get any info on the turbo to keep it safe.

Qveon · 07-18-2005, 11:55 PM

watch fuel/air, more freq oil changes, check clamps on charge pipe, pull plugs to check for detonation, etc.

sharkcohen · 07-19-2005, 12:18 AM

Proper engine management and good tuning. There is a Neptune dealer right in your town: http://www.hrtuning.com/index.php?page=neptunetuners

TwizT · 07-19-2005, 04:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sharkcohen

Personally, I would never buy someone elses project, period. But that's just me

You took the words right out of my mouth. You buy your friends project and you inherit it's problems. What problems ??? The quote below describes it best.

Quote:

Proper engine management and good tuning. There is a Neptune dealer right in your town: http://www.hrtuning.com/index.php?page=neptunetuners

Just reading the list of mods on the car, it's clear to me that no proper engine management was used for this turboed car. That's a big no no. Engine management is extremely important on an FI car. I would suggest that you don't help your friend out in buying his car and worry about yourself.

Sir_Nick · 07-19-2005, 08:15 AM

What do you guys suggest for engine management? I will take it in for tuning right away.

sharkcohen · 07-19-2005, 08:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sharkcohen

Proper engine management and good tuning. There is a Neptune dealer right in your town: http://www.hrtuning.com/index.php?page=neptunetuners

^^^

AllMotorBB6 · 07-22-2005, 11:59 PM

definitely go with neptune,

but to tell you the truth, so many people run off the blue box with ZERO problems. The kit was built for internally stock h22 motors. If he kept up with oil changes and frequently checked the oil, i would see no problem buying the car. Cuz personally i have yet to hear someone blow their motor off the greddy turbo kit. Dont get me know, im sure there are some, but "i" i have never read anything about it.

sharkcohen · 07-23-2005, 02:41 AM

The blue box makes no provision for pulling stock timing during boost, and I've personally seen it detonate in the midrange on a dyno.

keahistight · 07-23-2005, 09:01 AM

I personally have had my car detonate on blue box in the midrange. Thats why I changed to EMS. I took a power loss when I changed to EMS but it at least ran safe. It is just a boxed tune. You can not change timing and it is not tuned correctly for every car.

AllMotorBB6 · 07-23-2005, 10:42 AM

learn something new everyday.

Sir_Nick · 08-12-2005, 09:54 PM

Well I did buy this car and now I am looking to get A/F managment. I can get a decent deal on a used EMS but still more than I would like to spend. What others do you all prefer? Hondata? Neptune? Etc? I am getting really ****ty gas milage so far.

I might look into getting a larger turbo at some point but the Greddy is not a bad start! Thanks again for all the info.

forbidden710 · 08-18-2005, 09:03 AM

if youve been reading.. the shark said neptune is right by your house.

Twiggz · 08-18-2005, 11:33 AM

I plan to get off the blue box and get neptune as well. not sure when I will have extra cash, but I still need to pick up the boost control, OBD1, wire harness etc... bah I need money!

BB6T4me · 06-23-2006, 10:33 PM

well I know this thread is REALLY,REALLY OLD..so don't flame me.....but.....I bought Sir_Nick's turbo lude about 2 months ago(I think) I still need to come up with the $$ to tune it...but I guess that even with tunning and no CEL codes It will not pass emissions...because the kit is not CARB legal..........well anyways...this are the codes that this car has......oh and I guess I have another boost leak(couplings again?....dammit)

so I hear that Neptune is good for tunning this kit..gonna look into it.....I will really appreciate your help in fixing this problems.............NOT to Thread jack of course...but I did not wanted to start a new thread, plus, we're talking about the same car that this thread is about.....but different owner

CODE: P0170( ? )- Could not find what it means..O2 Sensor Maybe?

CODE: P0172(45) - System Too Rich.

CODE: P0325(23) - KS Circuit Malfunction.

CODE: P0500(17) - VSS Circuit Malfunction(M/T)(Vehicle Speed Sensor).

CODE: P1106(13) - BARO Circuit Range/Performance.

WHERE IS THE VSS? since my Speedometer/Odometer doesn't work
WHAT WOULD I NEED TO DO TO TAKE CARE OF THE TOO RICH PROBLEM?
Since it has the turbo..probably because of the FMU? don't know..and I guess running on the stock ECU or Equivalent
WHAT'S THE BARO????

.

sharkcohen · 06-23-2006, 11:01 PM

There is no P0170. The BARO sensor is internal to the ECU and is used as a reference to compensate for altitude. I suspect your ECU is fried.

BB6T4me · 06-23-2006, 11:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sharkcohen

There is no P0170. The BARO sensor is internal to the ECU and is used as a reference to compensate for altitude. I suspect your ECU is fried.

but the cars still runs good.........although it only revs up to 6700rpm before cutting off(like a rev limiter)...no VTEC either......no P0170??? that's what the scanner said...unless the guy read it wrong

keahistight · 07-01-2006, 09:23 AM

If you are on blue box then "system too rich" should never go away. Thats better than mine because I was pinging. Just use good gasoline or you will get deposits.

Artifex · 07-01-2006, 10:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BB6T4me

well I know this thread is REALLY,REALLY OLD..so don't flame me.....but.....I bought Sir_Nick's turbo lude about 2 months ago(I think) I still need to come up with the $$ to tune it...but I guess that even with tunning and no CEL codes It will not pass emissions...because the kit is not CARB legal..........well anyways...this are the codes that this car has......oh and I guess I have another boost leak(couplings again?....dammit)

so I hear that Neptune is good for tunning this kit..gonna look into it.....I will really appreciate your help in fixing this problems.............NOT to Thread jack of course...but I did not wanted to start a new thread, plus, we're talking about the same car that this thread is about.....but different owner

CODE: P0170( ? )- Could not find what it means..O2 Sensor Maybe?

CODE: P0172(45) - System Too Rich.

CODE: P0325(23) - KS Circuit Malfunction.

CODE: P0500(17) - VSS Circuit Malfunction(M/T)(Vehicle Speed Sensor).

CODE: P1106(13) - BARO Circuit Range/Performance.

WHERE IS THE VSS? since my Speedometer/Odometer doesn't work
WHAT WOULD I NEED TO DO TO TAKE CARE OF THE TOO RICH PROBLEM?
Since it has the turbo..probably because of the FMU? don't know..and I guess running on the stock ECU or Equivalent
WHAT'S THE BARO????

.

Wow, this car has a lot of issues.

I want to give you some advice, and I think you should follow it. You are down in a pit of problems, and I think what I want to tell you will get you most of the way out.

Passing emissions and getting the car running properly are actually 2 separate problems. The first on your list should be passing emissions.

To pass emissions, you need to disable the turbo. The simplest way to do this is to ziptie the wastegate open. Once the wastegate is all the way open, then next step is to put the original fuel injectors back in. After the injectors are in, the last step is to remove all of the Greddy electronics, which means everything except what came with the car.

Once the car is running on original parts again, the ECU needs to be reset, and the car driven around normally for about an hour or so. It is absolutely crucial that you keep the car under 20% throttle, and always below 4k RPMs. This will get the driving cycle complete, and hopefully you will always stay in closed loop.

Assuming there aren't any codes thrown, you can get inspected at this point. You should pass.

At this point, you should keep driving the car this way until you can get tuned. If I were you, I would definitely get Neptune. When you go to the tuner, bring the larger injectors that you removed (or buy ones which match your power level, see the injector calculator in the FAQ). I don't know whether Neptune comes with the ECU at the tuner, but you can work that out when you call your Neptune guy.

This plan should get the car on the road again. You don't want to wait too long to get your car inspected.