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Old 09-25-2011, 01:02 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bouckarooo View Post
^ yes that is good as any built engien should. An under drive pulley gives engien power gain by underdruiviugn the accessories therefore the accessories scavenge less power.

do you have the PS on your fluidampr?
im only running the alt, i deleted the P.s & ac because of the new lovefab turbo manifold i just got acouple weeks ago
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Old 09-25-2011, 03:03 PM   #22 (permalink)
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IF you need to get more volume out of your oil pump then buy a brand new one, do not open it out of the plastic and send it to endynn, they will work it over for you and the final product is far better than any after market company. The only catch is they will only work on BRAND NEW oil pumps.
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Old 10-25-2011, 01:26 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDMpreludeKing View Post
Anyways your going to need more than just a built block to hit over 500whp

just to list acouple things:

stage 2 turbo cams wit good valve kit
cam gears to retart timing
balance eliminator kit to hit over 8k
hv oil pump
electric wp
good racing manifold that wont crack is my problem @ moment
3" piping
4bar map
c16 or meth to boost safe n cool(seen alot of melted pistons)
a good tuner
ect to much to list
I'm sorry I'm going to have to disagree with most of this.

Turbo cams and cam gears are definetly not needed, there are H22's in excess of 600whp on OEM cams. In order to make use of turbo cams you need to dial them in (using the gears) if you are in a state that has some kind of OBD2 check for inspection this is going to screw you up because the CPS will flip out if the cam's aren't degree'd to stock . IMO not worth the ~$800 they cost (cams and gears).

Balance eliminator kit to hit over 8k. Firstly, you don't NEED to go over 8k and in fact the lower you can keep your rev's the longer the motor will last, and you definetly don't need to go to 8k to hit 550whp, I don't pass 7250 and make 502whp.

Upgraded oil pump, the OEM pump is plenty sufficient, if anything (and again this isn't really necessary) sending it out to endyn isn't a bad idea but not necessary.

Electric WP? I don't know if these are available for H22's but I can tell you my OEM one works just fine at this power level and not sure why an electric would offer you any advantage.

3" Piping on the exhaust side sure, on the intake side 2.5" is plenty large enough and actually fits a bit better and easier to manage 3.0" I don't see as reasonable until you are in the 625-650 and higher club.

An uprated map sensor goes without saying, stocker only goes to 10psi.

A good tune (goes without saying) but C16 is not necessary, in fact 93 with the proper turbo and tune you can make 550. I was going for this but I haven't gotten around to upgrading my fuel rail with an fpr and ran out of injector (1000cc ID's) at stock fuel pressure. I would however upgrade the radiator.

ECT is useful but oil temp is also useful and in some cases more. I currently run A/F, Boost, ECT, EGT, Oil Pressure. these seem to work fine, oil temp would be nice but as long as my ECT's stay under 220 I'm ok with things.

Also I noticed someone else recommended the moroso pans, I wouldn't bother, I had one, it fit like isht so I tossed it and just had my shop weld bungs onto an OEM pan and it fits perfect.
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Old 10-25-2011, 10:36 PM   #24 (permalink)
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either way what r u doing for a tranny?

i bet a k swap hatch you will you
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Old 01-10-2012, 11:57 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Well the build is under way.

H22A JDM block that is sleeved
JE 9.0:1 compression pistons
SKAT Con Rods
ARP Fasteners
Crank is knife edged and balanced

Have a head that I am working on for the application. I want to switch to a performance cam of some kind in the future but for now I will be running the stock cams and gears.
The head is o-ringed for boost as well.

Should be able to get a move on the assembly within the next month or so and have her up and running again soon.

Tim
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