I don't know much about breaking in rebuilt engines, and I bet it's different based on what's been done. But I was just wondering, can a rebuilt engine run minimal boost (~4 psi), or is it best to not run any boost during the break in?
I don't know much about breaking in rebuilt engines, and I bet it's different based on what's been done. But I was just wondering, can a rebuilt engine run minimal boost (~4 psi), or is it best to not run any boost during the break in?
DO NOT run boost during break in. The reason is the piston rings. During break-in, the rings are being seated against the newly honed bore (new rings require new cylinder hones). The purpose is for the crosshatch pattern on the bore to wear down the rings so they both acheive close to zero clearance, resulting in a good seal against compression.
If you are running boost during this process, you will get a lot of blow-by, increasing crankcase pressure, hampering oil flow, and slowing down the ring seating process. You want the rings to be fully seated before boost is applied.
If you have a turbo, just zip-tie the wastegate open to prevent boost. Voila, zero boost.
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ah i see, this is thinking really far down the road, I figured it'd be a total ***** if i had to remove the turbo kit. In this case, I think i should go with the Drag kit, since it has an external wastegate. Thanks Atrifex and h22bb6
I went 1500 miles for my break in period and everything seemed to go well. Many different opinions out there though and I know someone who only did it for 500...no problems there either.
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I made an account, and Theoldone has some serious information to give out. He has a method and everything for breakins. I guess that's what you know when you're a pro
For long component life, we hone cylinders to the specs we provide customers. We use only WD40 on the cylinder walls.
We use non-synthetic oil.
I recommend going 200 miles attempting to keep the engine under 3500. No luggig in upper gears. Every 20 miles "flash" the engine to perhaps 4K briefly.
Next 200, 4K is the upper limit, flash the engine to 4500 every now and then in first or second gears.
Next 200 miles 4500, with occasional lower geaqr flashes to 5000.
Next 200, 5500 is the upper limit, 6000 is acceptable for brief flashes.
next 200, 6000, with occasional flashes to 6500.
It's now time to change the oil and filter, reset the valves, and get it on.
I do not recommend that steady state driving (highway) at one rpm for any length of time during break-in.
If you're wanting to seat the rings faster for a racing combination, call me and I'll tell you how to hone the cylinders differently....
Jeff breaks his motors in on the dyno with no problems...thats what he told me
You mean Jeff Evans? That's pretty shocking if he does.
The purpose of break in is to (among other things) seat the rings. Bottom line is that the rings will not properly seat unless they are worn in at mid/low RPM, and at a non-constant RPM. The majority of break-in wear occurs during the 1st 1000 miles of running. Best strategy is to buy the cheapest, most ghetto motor oil you can find and use that for the 1st 500 miles. You are actually looking for low viscosity during break-in, but not so much as vital parts start touching each other. After that, better oil can be used (but not synthetic!). After about 2k miles, I would switch to synthetic oil, because nearly all of the break-in will be complete at that point.
A lot of internet ricers seem to love other methods of break-in, and I am certainly not going to stop you if you have other methods. However, the only methods I am willing to listen to have either (1) a famous engine builder endorse it, or (2) be described completely enough for me to clearly understand how it helps break-in succeed. It is worth pointing out that "Motoman"s technique, while well described, fails criteria #2 because it conflicts with some known phenomena about Honda motors.
Motoman makes the assertion: The honed crosshatch pattern in the cylinder bore acts like a file to allow the rings to wear. The rings quickly wear down the "peaks" of this roughness, regardless of how hard the engine is run.
There's a very small window of opportunity to get the rings to seal really well ... the first 20 miles !!
If the rings aren't forced against the walls soon enough, they'll use up the roughness before they fully seat. Once that happens there is no solution but to re hone the cylinders, install new rings and start over again.
Haha, what a load of crap. Anyone who knows Honda car motors can point this out as false. Honda motors, H22s in particular, have a very fine hone on the bores (when done correctly). I believe it is 600 grit pitch. A 600 grit hone takes a little while to break-in. Far longer than this mythical "20 miles" bullsh!t that motoman is claiming. While there is a fair amount of ring seating taking place during this first 20 miles, it is nowhere near enough to claim that it is mostly done.
Also, he fails to appreciate how gas pressure is actually created in the bore. His thinking is that you need a lot of air (open throttle) to create this ring pressure. Not true. The natural compression action of the piston will create this pressure, even if only a little air is present in the cylinder. This will still exert plenty of pressure against the rings for seating.
TOO's method of breaking in motors makes tons of sense. Basically you progressively load the motor every 200 miles. After about 1k, you can run it any way you want. Just don't have a constant load on the engine, and you will be fine. Also allow for engine deceleration every so often, and things will be happy.
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You mean Jeff Evans? That's pretty shocking if he does.
yup him
I asked him how he breaks in his motors and he said when he puts his fully built K20 into his hatch he would break it in on the dyno
he also told me that hes built other motors for customers and did the same thing and has had no problems
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No break in is necessary. This thread explains why
to anyone breaking in a motor read this thread, this thread explains the entire bit. Earl on h-t is a genius and i bought a number of things from him. All I can say is read this thread before you turn the key.
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After that, better oil can be used (but not synthetic!). After about 2k miles, I would switch to synthetic oil, because nearly all of the break-in will be complete at that point.
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