I know i'm new here but i wish you could help me out.
I need to boost my H22 4th gen lude, for semi-Daily driver on Low boost and Street or Track race on High Boost, my goal is minimum 500 whp street, and track 650 or 700 whp, i have read all the setups but nothing near my setup and i need your opinion on it,
Here it goes:
1- Built bottom:
Darton 87mm sleeves, closed deck
MicroPolished Crank shaft
Eagle rods
Arias or CP Pistons (8.5:1 or 9.0:1)
2- Head Work: P&P only
3- Turbo setup:
Borg Warner S372 with 1.10 or 1.06 A/R
Manifold - Between Love-Fab Exacliber, PeakBoost Ram-Horn, and Top Mount (ofcourse Twinscroll)
WG - Tial 44mm or 38mm
BOV - undecided
Intercooler - Thinking between HKS Skyline Intercooler (Custom Fit) or something similar (you can say undecided)
3" Downpipe with 3" Exhaust System (Custom)
4- ECU: P28 with Hondata S300
5- Exterior
Black Metallic Paint
Hiro Front Bumper (will be customized for the intercooler)
Custom side skirts and rear bumper with 5 inch Lip trunk spoiler.
6- Interior
Half Gutted interior (rear seats, rear seat support and trunk items and carpets removed)
Recaro Seats
OEM Shift knob
Short Shifter
Race steering wheel with Swede leather
7- Electronics
RaceTech Gauges (Boost, Oil/Water temp, EGT, Volts, A/F Ratio, Speedometer and RPM since i'm going to replace the Gauge cluster)
Blitz turbo timer
Greddy Boost Control
Twin Boost control Switch (to switch between Low and High boost WHILE Racing)
Well that's the Future setup you just read, now the current setup is:
H22A Swap with P13
P2U5 Tranny (Accord), in my country we race longer than 1/4 mile but will change Gear ratios eventually
Everyone likes to build stuff themselves, but these days I think people are better off paying a builder to do the motor. There are guys out there who can build a badass engine, and truth is they can do it cheaper than backyard mechanics. I have built 3 motors, and if I had to do it again I would pay someone.
OP: The hard part is all the small stuff: BCS, hose couplings, intercooler mounts, wiring, exhaust, etc. Good luck.
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If you are making > 400 whp a single 44 may not be enough. You may have to use a dual 44mm.
Quote:
4- ECU: P28 with Hondata S300
This won't allow you to dynamically switch maps on the fly. Hondata's don't have that feature. In order to switch between two maps, you have to have a high end EMS system like a Motec or Autronic.
Quote:
Greddy Boost Control
You don't need this, your EMS system can do this for you.
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In most setups i've seen (which is close to mine), almost all of them had Micropolished crank, for the WG, i am using a twin scroll manifold which allows me to use 2 WGs, for the ems, i am using a GM 3 bar MAP.
Since Hondata is the second best, i may go for AEM EMS if you said it's not enough
In most setups i've seen (which is close to mine), almost all of them had Micropolished crank, for the WG, i am using a twin scroll manifold which allows me to use 2 WGs, for the ems, i am using a GM 3 bar MAP.
Umm, a MAP sensor is not an EMS ...
Quote:
Since Hondata is the second best, i may go for AEM EMS if you said it's not enough
Hondata's not even 2nd best. They are like 5th or 6th best. There is a ton of other stuff that is way better than Hondata. Actually, Hondata would probably be my last choice.
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You: hillbilly version of a question
Me: immediate answer
You: another hillbilly version of a question
Me: immediate answer followed by "stop typing like that or I'll stop helping you"
You: blah blah blah all typed in hillbilly.
1. Motec
2. Autronic
3. GEMS
4. AEM (only for some cars; their support sucks)
5. Neptune (for Hondas only)
6. Hondata
You get what you pay for. Motec is almost always used by teams with serious racing budgets. It's almost prohibitively expensive for amateurs, but that depends on the size of your wallet.
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You will need an EGT sensor if you have an EGT gauge. This is also useful for tuning (assuming your tuner is good).
The Walbro pump may not be good to 500whp. You may need something larger. I haven't thought about Honda stuff in a long time, so I don't know anymore. You should consult with your builder for this.
At 500whp, you are going to be entirely traction limited. At a minimum you should have an LSD for the front. Mfactory makes a nice one, or you could get a cheap OBX and you should be ok.
Speaking of traction, you should have 2 more things: 1. A traction bar for the front, and 2. The widest tires you can fit. I recommend at least 245 or wider in the front. You may need new wheels for this.
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I think it would be sufficient for the Walbro, as for the traction, i am considering the LSD but after the build is done...
The tires will be changed also to Nitto, 245 is fine for the front...
But do you think the parts will be sifficient for my goals ? on a GT35 ?
Assuming your builder is not incompetent, you will make plenty of power. However, you will be full of disappointment when you realize you have no traction.
Spending all your money to get 500whp with no LSD is very stupid.
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Assuming your builder is not incompetent, you will make plenty of power. However, you will be full of disappointment when you realize you have no traction.
Spending all your money to get 500whp with no LSD is very stupid.
Artifex:
Like i said, the LSD will be included after the Engine build is done
I know "from you" that i will need a LSD cuz the car will have some traction issues so i am going for the Quafie LSD
But here's the thing i didn't mention before, which is that if i'm going for a Track Race, i badly need a LSD, but for Street rolling from 60-80 mph, i would have minimal traction issues.
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