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Old 10-07-2001, 10:28 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Best Turbo setup for a 5G Prelude Type SH

I have a 01 Prelude Type SH and I want to know what is the best turbo setup out there for the prelude which has reliability and significant gains? The turbo kits that I've heard about for the prelude are: F-MAX, Turbonetics, Drag Gen...Anyone here that can give me specs on each and tell me which is the best buy? Also is the JRSC reliable and good for daily driving?


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Old 10-08-2001, 03:33 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Almost all SH owners have experienced problems with the ATTS system when installing a turbo. It's been SPECULATED that the high jump in power when the turbo kicks in (about 3000 rpm) throws off the ATTS due to the jump in power. Since Schwett (I believe the only SH on the board with JRSC) hasn't expressed any problems with his setup as of yet. So if you get a turbo for you SH, be prepared to have ATTS die most of the time.

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Old 10-08-2001, 08:40 AM   #3 (permalink)
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JRSC

How much power can I gain with the JRSC and will this cause any problems to the ATTS or any other part on the car? Also what type of mechanic do I need to install the JRSC? Anyone know where I can get the JRSC for a good price?
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Old 10-08-2001, 03:21 PM   #4 (permalink)
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From what Schwett posted (he should chime in soon) he got about 210 to the wheels I believe. The mechanic that needs to install the JRSC would have to be fine in taking off the throttle body, tapping the fuel line, and good with working with electronics. Heck, I've heard that a lot of dealers install these things. Good price... you can wait til another group buy happens, but if you shop around (I don't know where) I'm fairly sure that you can find them for about $2800.

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Old 10-08-2001, 03:32 PM   #5 (permalink)
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200-220whp is what you can expect for the JRSC on your SH, towards the lower end of that if you're fully stock, the upper end with I/H/E and some of the JR toys.

the install is fairly involved but i know of a number of shops that have done it. it's not as hard as a turbo, but i'd only take the car to a place that's done it before. the electronics and fuel enrichment seems like the touchiest part to me. the rest is just grunt.

i haven't had the ATTS light come on once. i don't think it's the "sudden" increase in torque that kills ATTS with a turbo application. i think it just doesn't work past a certain amount, maybe 200lb-ft or something. i have tried to make the light come on by turning steadily in 1st gear at 4000RPM in a nice level wide area (parking lot) and then flooring it suddenly; major loss of traction, burnt rubber, sliding, etc, but no ATTS light. that sudden increase of power when the bypass valve on the jrsc shuts and the throttle opens up is just as much as a turbo would produce when it spools up.

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Originally posted by TimeRacer
From what Schwett posted (he should chime in soon) he got about 210 to the wheels I believe. The mechanic that needs to install the JRSC would have to be fine in taking off the throttle body, tapping the fuel line, and good with working with electronics. Heck, I've heard that a lot of dealers install these things. Good price... you can wait til another group buy happens, but if you shop around (I don't know where) I'm fairly sure that you can find them for about $2800.

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Old 10-09-2001, 09:41 AM   #6 (permalink)
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The person who I purchased my turbo kit from had his atts light come on twice in the whole year he had it.

I don't know myself because my engine light came on all the time when my turbo kit was on because my cat was toasted from the problems I had with the turbo, and now it's on my base.
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Old 10-10-2001, 11:05 AM   #7 (permalink)
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for those of you with a helms, the section on the ATTS is interesting. among other things, the ATTS computer reads the map sensor, oil temperature, oil pressure, engine speed, wheel speed, steering angle, yaw rate, etc etc etc etc. it even reads stuff from the rear wheels.

of particular note is that it uses the map sensor reading and the engine speed reading to compute engine torque. if you have electronics that are modifying the map signal, but that modified signal is only going to the main ECU and not the ATTS ECU, perhaps that causes a problem (the ATTS ECU also communicates in other more mysterious ways with the main ECU). the difference between the wiring diagrams for the base JRSC and SH JRSC is just sending the modified map signal to the ATTS ECU in addition to the main ECU.

the thing that i *think* causes ATTS failure is either the electronics (which would be easy to troubleshoot since the ATTS computer throws descriptive codes just like the main one) or the clutches. the ATTS has two clutches, one which activates a gearset to transfer torque to the left, and another which activates a gearset to transfer torque to the right. i'm thinking that if one of those clutches is engaged, but starts slipping because it wasn't designed to take much more than your standard 160lb/ft at the crank, then the unit might throw a code and shut down.

as for that dudes ATTS light coming on only twice in a year with a turbo, i doubt that had much to do with the turbo. improperly inflated tires will cause it come on! mine has come on twice since i got the car, both times before the JRSC.

Quote:
Originally posted by Smilez
The person who I purchased my turbo kit from had his atts light come on twice in the whole year he had it.

I don't know myself because my engine light came on all the time when my turbo kit was on because my cat was toasted from the problems I had with the turbo, and now it's on my base.
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Old 10-12-2001, 11:24 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I had my ATTS light come on once since I bought my car. I was making a left turn, going about 40mph. Other then that, none what so ever. And about the turbo. I was thinking about getting one too. I was able to find info on F-Max turbo kit easily. Just goto

http://www.f-max.com/PreludeSys.htm

From dyno provided my f-max, it produces about 288HP and 227 lb/ft torque. I believe this is power to the wheels. F-max turbo kit includes turbonetics t3/t4.

On the other side, I was not so successful in finding information about Drag's turbo kit on prelude. I could find pictures of it, but was not able to find the power it produces. Only thing I found was that Drag came out with GenIII turbo kit, which produces about same power as F-max kit. And I don't know if it is true, but I read some where that Drag's turbo kit needs some fabrication.

So, I'm actually leaning towards F-max turbo kit. I'm saving up right now, so I'm hopping to have one by summer of next year.
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Old 10-12-2001, 11:53 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I have the fmax kit, so I'm not saying good or bad about them, but make sure to look closely at the dyno. 288whp is at the wheels, but it's open loop which means it's wastegate gasses are released into the engine bay. This isn't legal on the street. 244whp is what they quote at the wheels for closed loop.

Either way, I think the fmax kit is a good bolt on turbo kit, the only thing I would change for a basic 7-8psi setup is replacing their crappy check valve system with a missing link from someone like overboost.com

-Jeff
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Old 10-12-2001, 12:10 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by RedLudeII

On the other side, I was not so successful in finding information about Drag's turbo kit on prelude.
You didn't search hard enough. Theres a nice search feature on this board that has a lot of drag kit details. I recently posted up new dynos.

Quote:
Originally posted by RedLudeII

Only thing I found was that Drag came out with GenIII turbo kit, which produces about same power as F-max kit.
There is no drag 3 kit. Bet my life on it. NO DRAG 3, only crooked shops wanting yout extra $. Only the drag 2 exists.
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Old 10-18-2001, 10:26 AM   #11 (permalink)
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The atts see numerous things as stated above...what is has is a safety switch. IT see a certain amount of current, if the current(comes from the map) goes aboe a certain a mount and to quickly...the ECU throws a code to protect. I think the turbo set ups dont tap the ecu to manipulate the computer...so when they spike hard, the atts sees to much map and then throws the code.

I too have done what Schwett did...but on a gravel lot and no atts light. Most turbo guys (even the guys @ greddy that I have talked to) just disable the atts (pull the fuse).

My 2 cents
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Old 10-18-2001, 11:35 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Actually most turbo setups use a check valve. The MAP sensor never physicaly senses boost, so doesn't report positive pressure to anything, including ATTS. Most ATTS disabling is not because of positive MAP values.
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