i think i finally understand what the JR AFPR is doing.
the original statement by jackson racing that the AFPR does "nothing" at idle is not correct (or, in their words, i misunderstood them.) it does not increase or lower the rate while the engine is running until it sees boost. however, the set screw on it DOES affect the baseline fuel pressure. so turning in that set screw will increase both your idle pressure and the pressure at WOT. again according to them, the correct pressures are around 50psi at idle and 85psi during boost. the 50psi at idle sounds damn high to me, but what do i know.
ok, that's not right either. when you adjust the set screw, the idle pressure does not change. beats me how they set it originally, but the idle pressure appears to be fixed. the set screw only controls the rising rate i guess. grrrrrr
i like it; i like the added power, the sounds, the availability of lots of torque throughout the power band. it is not foolproof, and not as trouble free as one might hope. it might be so once properly tuned and adjusted and accessorized, but i dunno.
as for fitting your accord, i really have no clue. perhaps if you had a large pic of your engine bay we could take a look. the kit interfaces heavily with the ecu, fuel system, vacuum system, etc, and is also a VERY VERY tight fit in the prelude engine bay.
most of the action, as you can see, is where the stock throttle body / intake manifold were. there is VERY little clearance between the engine and the charger (good luck with injectors, fuel rail, fuel filter, etc), and between hideous drive assembly/related belts and the valve cover. i'd guess that it the geometry of your swapped engine and engine bay are at all off, it won't fit. it won't even fit in a 4th gen h22a prelude.
Quote:
Originally posted by AccordSiR schwett....you seem to know a lot about the JRSC. How do you like it and do you think it will fit in my 97 Accord H22A4 swap? Thanks.
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the jr afpr and high flow fuel pump do cause the idle pressure to go way up, to around 50-52psi. this is not adjustable. the rising rate of the afpr is not adjustable either. what is adjustable is the "baseline" pressure, or the pressure regulated when the afpr sees no vacuum or boost. the set screw ranges it from WELL over 100psi (VERY VERY BAD) to somewhere in the 50s. most people have it around 75 i believe, which on my car translates to approx 2.5 full turns of the set screw from the max screwed in position. this will result in idle pressures of 52ish, "baseline" pressure of 75, and max WOT boosting pressure of just over 100psi.
i am extremely worried about the stock injectors at these pressures. once i figure it out, i'm gonna go with slightly larger injectors, a more adjustable fmu, and possibly back to the OEM pump.
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"AIDS is not just God's punishment for homosexuals; it is God's punishment for the society that tolerates homosexuals." R.I.P. Jerry Falwell.
Why back to the stock fuel pump? Just since at that point you won't need the fuel pressures that high? Just wondering why, since you're probally needing a lot more fuel.
i am extremely worried about the stock injectors at these pressures. once i figure it out, i'm gonna go with slightly larger injectors, a more adjustable fmu, and possibly back to the OEM pump.
If you go back to using the stock pump with the JR FMU, you will destroy your motor in no time. Period.
The stock pump cannot supply adequate volume at high pressure.
with bigger injectors, wouldn't the stock pump be adequate b/c the pressure are so much lower? not that there'd be any wrong with the pump currently there.
as i've mentioned before, hondata is not an option. i'm not putting an OBD I ecu in my car. period. i wish there was another way....
Quote:
Originally posted by inlinefour
If you go back to using the stock pump with the JR FMU, you will destroy your motor in no time. Period.
The stock pump cannot supply adequate volume at high pressure.
Consider Hondata.
__________________
"AIDS is not just God's punishment for homosexuals; it is God's punishment for the society that tolerates homosexuals." R.I.P. Jerry Falwell.
The pump is still flowing a lot more than the stock one would at WOT regardless of the fuel pressures. Essentially, if you can get away using the largest pump possile w/o having fuel starvation at low loads... do it.
Do not play around the fpr settings unless you have a/f ratio meter on a dyno as the fpr is not at all good. There have been tests that the fpr have lean and rich mixtures all through the power band on stock settings. turning it up higher might cause it to run rich on some parts of the powerband. this results to some power decrease and fuel inefficiency. The guage that comes with it is not the super most accurate....
Larger injectors being run by stand alone ecu is a better choice. properly tuned engine cannot be stressed more when going FI. the stock fuel pump will be enough if you get bigger injectors, only to a certain extent(depends on how much boost you have and horses youre producing)....you have more room to play around with a new aftermarket ECU and tuning it will be a breeze...just plug and play.....Haltech in AUS is only 1600AUS....thats like $800US
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Dude, please read a little more before posting. From what you're saying, I don't think you know anything about standalones, or even FMU's and tuning.
You're really letting everyone know basic information. Yes, having a standalone with bigger injectors is better. No, it's not plug and play unless you go for Hondata which still requires ECU modification and tuning. You can't get a Haltech for $800.00 USD. Here in North America the best retail price with flying lead and ECU is about $1100.00 USD.
Schwett doesn't have the option of a standalone, which he has posted many times, because he wants to keep the ATTS. Standalone for a 6psi JRSC setup isn't necessary, it would be beneficial, but not necessary.
__________________ DirtyLude
Mark Higgins
Toronto Prelude Club www.hondaprelude.to
which "gauge that comes with it" are you referring to? i do have an a/f ratio gauge, and i can't believe it's so innacurate that i'm running lean despite NEVER having seen it even go more than one bar stoi under boost. of course, i also had a dyno run on a dyno with a wideband when i got the kit put on.
i might really like a standalone ECU, but as others have pointed out, you can't run the ATTS with any OBD I ECU (hondata) or any aftermarket ECU (haltech, etc.) bummer.
Quote:
Originally posted by TegRa-iN-Oz Do not play around the fpr settings unless you have a/f ratio meter on a dyno as the fpr is not at all good. There have been tests that the fpr have lean and rich mixtures all through the power band on stock settings. turning it up higher might cause it to run rich on some parts of the powerband. this results to some power decrease and fuel inefficiency. The guage that comes with it is not the super most accurate....
Larger injectors being run by stand alone ecu is a better choice. properly tuned engine cannot be stressed more when going FI. the stock fuel pump will be enough if you get bigger injectors, only to a certain extent(depends on how much boost you have and horses youre producing)....you have more room to play around with a new aftermarket ECU and tuning it will be a breeze...just plug and play.....Haltech in AUS is only 1600AUS....thats like $800US
__________________
"AIDS is not just God's punishment for homosexuals; it is God's punishment for the society that tolerates homosexuals." R.I.P. Jerry Falwell.
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