Keep in mind that if you run a standalone (which you have to do to make 400whp), the ATTS control module is not running at all, and thus ATTS will not work. I believe the ATTS unit, in an unpowered state, functions like an open diff.
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So zero chance of 400whp running an AEM F/IC or Greddy eManage Ultimate? Definitely better to go a standalone ECU, but I would have thought that a FIC or eMange Ult could do the job.
We are looking to run an S300 (with 4 bar, boost cap., and solenoid) + 1000cc injectors and an OBDII-I conversion harness.. should support whatever the factory sensors would handle I'd think? We've done tons of 500whp+ cars on hondata so I think it will support whatever the factory sensors will. I know you lose the OBDII features and probably atts and similar, but they don't seem necessary for what we're trying to accomplish anyways (as a weekend warrior type car). Plenty of other cars to daily drive. So from all the reading and input I am getting (seeing dyno videos in the 330-400whp range stock tranny + atts disabled and running for years without problems) the stock tranny with ATTS disabled will probably be our best bet until we actually find a way to build the base transmission to hold the crazy power. We'll just have to limit the power for now which is probably fine anyways (on street tires on the street how much different could 350whp and 450whp be anyways until you hit 100+). Pictures coming soon. Another plus is that it seems from the videos and some input that with the ATTS disabled it just acts like a normal limited slip. Doesn't transfer power back and forth and similar, but isn't a one wheel wonder either it seems *shrug*. I guess we'll find out lol
Another plus is that it seems from the videos and some input that with the ATTS disabled it just acts like a normal limited slip. Doesn't transfer power back and forth and similar, but isn't a one wheel wonder either it seems *shrug*. I guess we'll find out lol
I think this is wrong. ATTS becomes an open diff without power. I've never worked on an SH personally, but I know enough people who have.
Plus, it would violate physics. ATTS is a clutchpack diff, and clutches don't lock without electrical power being supplied. They have no friction otherwise. I'm 99% sure it's like a pegleg without power.
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I don't know if this matters or not, but I have seen proof that even with the ATTS still on, I'm laying down roughly two even strips of rubber when i do a first gear launch. I did it in a Wal-Mart parking lot at night semi-accidently and I stopped the car and got out to see if I was spinning only one wheel. This is the only time that's happened to me and I got out to see the net results, so take it for what it's worth but it almost seems like even with ATTS disabled, it still has some benefits of being an LSD in a straight line.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Artifex
I think this is wrong. ATTS becomes an open diff without power. I've never worked on an SH personally, but I know enough people who have.
Plus, it would violate physics. ATTS is a clutchpack diff, and clutches don't lock without electrical power being supplied. They have no friction otherwise. I'm 99% sure it's like a pegleg without power.
One of you two is wrong.....
Conflicting information ftl . Maybe one of you can clarify?
hmmm..... well heres a little bitty in defense of both of these two....
1) my parts guy buddy at the local Honda dealership told me at one point that if i had bought an sh and wanted to take it over 300 horsepower i would have had to deactivate the ATTS, as it cannot handle, not only the horsepower but the torque as well. He then went on to tell me that you can leave it in but it will cause small powerloss.
2) I know a guy who has a turbocharged prelude sh, and when you look under his car you can still see the ATTS unit.
I dont even know....i avoided the prelude sh when purchasing, i mean dont get me wrong the atts system kicks some serious arse.Unfortunetly most of the time it becomes a limiting feature.
^I think the real limiting factor is the stock ecu. With an aftermarket tunable ECU, ATTS doesn't work, and most of the H22's making big power are running aftermarket ECU's.
However the real question that hasn't been answered yet is if the ATTS unit acts as a LSD when it is not actively working. I wouldn't think it does, but then there is no explanation for preprelude's two even strips of rubber after a launch. Hmmm.......
I think this is wrong. ATTS becomes an open diff without power. I've never worked on an SH personally, but I know enough people who have.
Plus, it would violate physics. ATTS is a clutchpack diff, and clutches don't lock without electrical power being supplied. They have no friction otherwise. I'm 99% sure it's like a pegleg without power.
Quote:
One of you two is wrong.....
Conflicting information ftl . Maybe one of you can clarify?
Exactly why I am trying to consolidate this all in this one thread... I cannot find solid information pointing one way or the other in how to setup a 300whp+ SH car (drivetrain wise) and the function the ATTS when it is disabled. I've read PMs and similar where people, with ATTS disabled, flooring it in first and leaving two tread marks, which of course doesn't say 100% that its working as an LSD, but does help point to it actually functioning as one. I don't care to be right or wrong I just want to know. If someone doesn't post by the time we finish (hopefully next week if the turbo manifold shows up) then I will definitely post some pictures/video/info.
I don't care to be right or wrong I just want to know. If someone doesn't post by the time we finish (hopefully next week if the turbo manifold shows up) then I will definitely post some pictures/video/info.
I'm in the same boat. I don't care who is right or wrong, but the answer could be useful. It really doesn't matter to me, I drive a base, but now I'm curious.
Yeap please do turbo it! And disable the atts and hopefully all goes well good luck! Please get back to us I want to see because that mean's I will buy a type s and turbo it lol and keep the s spec for my daily driver
Yeap please do turbo it! And disable the atts and hopefully all goes well good luck! Please get back to us I want to see because that mean's I will buy a type s and turbo it lol and keep the s spec for my daily driver
We start painting the engine bay today (viper pearl blue... car is white pearl exterior... should pop nicely as it matches all the turbosmart wastegate/blow off valve stuff). The new engine and everything is done, turbocharger is here (Precision 6262SP BTE w/ .82 A/R T3/4Bolt Hotside), Lovefab custom sidewinder manifold shipped friday (a/c, p/s, etc compatible), Precision Custom Intercooler is here (cast entanks, 700HP+ Capable), all the aluminum tubing/ss tubing for the intercooler piping and wastegate/downpipe, ECU will be going out to Hondata today for an S300 with boost, 4 bar map sensor and a boost solenoid. Once the manifold shows up we will start custom fabbing the downpipe on the old motor/tranny that way it will be ready when the painting is done. Turbosmart 52mm raceport blow off valve and 45mm new progate should make this setup sing =). When we get more "after" photos I will post up some pictures.
I am pretty sure because it was an ATTS question, not necessarily a boosting question. I've gotten my answer now so if you want it can be moved to the FI thread as I will just be posting build pictures and results from here on. Thanks
I guess it's been pretty well covered, but I can't say I'd recommend keeping the ATTS. It's essentially an open differential with the capability to spin one tire at about 15% more torque than the other in the corners, through a pretty intense looking gearset. Having seen a couple ATTS problems at the dealership I work at, I can vouch for the fact that it is one of the most devilishly complicated things that Honda has ever designed for a street car. The gearing unit is relatively straightforward, but the electrical portion of it is scary. It will not per say give you an advantage in straight line performance, it is primarily a handling feature.
I didn't know that the H2B kit worked with the SH block, but it would make sense that Civic guys (like me) would go that route, as the ATTS gearbox will not fit into a Civic w/H22 with out some serious jackhammer work. It's one of those things that's really cool, but not what you would want in a performance car, especially because it wouldn't work w/ any engine management (unless you want to tune a piggyback to 600hp ).
Post pictures soon, your build sounds really cool!
can some one help me make a decision on which intake manifold to use? golden eagle, venom and or skunk 2 pro series?
Did you just jack this thread?
Thank you for getting back to us! Please get some photos! I want to see some results and this beast. Are you going to be doing any videos? Btw good luck too
Thank you for getting back to us! Please get some photos! I want to see some results and this beast. Are you going to be doing any videos? Btw good luck too
I've got one of those dang sony cameras so I have to wait til I get home to get the special adapter cable (why can't everything just be USB and normal flash sticks!?). Anyways... engine is 90% built, engine bay is painted (viper blue pearl), and all the other parts are here so we should be rocking and rolling by end of next week.
I've got one of those dang sony cameras so I have to wait til I get home to get the special adapter cable (why can't everything just be USB and normal flash sticks!?). Anyways... engine is 90% built, engine bay is painted (viper blue pearl), and all the other parts are here so we should be rocking and rolling by end of next week.
Im starting to druel rofl. . I want to see and yeap I have one of those damn cameras too pain in the ass buy a memory stick?
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ATTS is a clutchpack diff, and clutches don't lock without electrical power being supplied. They have no friction otherwise. I'm 99% sure it's like a pegleg without power.
. Maybe one of you can clarify?
).
Btw good luck too
. I want to see and yeap I have one of those damn cameras too pain in the ass buy a memory stick?
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