I'm going to just share a few things that may help you down the road. Others, please chime in with more "tricks". I am no way claiming I invented the ideas below, I just want to make sure everyone else knows about them.
1. Tired of messing with your car being to low to load on the trailer, and don't want to raise the coils because you will upset the corner balance? Use 2 locking collars on your coilovers. Set the bottom one at your corner balance with the upper collar resting on it, and lock it. When you need to load on the trailer, just spin the upper unlocked collar up 2-3" and leave it there. Once you unload at the track, spin them back down to the locked collar. I only use this system on the fronts.
2. Face it, we are going to go through selector hubs and syncros in our transmissions. The 3rd/4th gear selector/syncro set from a '99 civic SI (B16a) is WAY cheaper then the prelude set, and works fine.. It does NOT come with the actual 3rd gear like the prelude set does, but that is usually not needed on a syncro rebuild. You can save yourself about 80$ I will be finding out if any other tranny parts between the 2 are interchangeable..
1. Tired of messing with your car being to low to load on the trailer, and don't want to raise the coils because you will upset the corner balance? Use 2 locking collars on your coilovers. Set the bottom one at your corner balance with the upper collar resting on it, and lock it. When you need to load on the trailer, just spin the upper unlocked collar up 2-3" and leave it there. Once you unload at the track, spin them back down to the locked collar. I only use this system on the fronts.
I've actually though of doing that, nice to see someone using that method. Most people I have suggested it to just use ramped-up blocks at the front of their ramps onto the trailer.
1. Tired of messing with your car being to low to load on the trailer, and don't want to raise the coils because you will upset the corner balance? Use 2 locking collars on your coilovers. Set the bottom one at your corner balance with the upper collar resting on it, and lock it. When you need to load on the trailer, just spin the upper unlocked collar up 2-3" and leave it there. Once you unload at the track, spin them back down to the locked collar. I only use this system on the fronts.
I was actually thinking about making the front bumper easily detachable with quick release fasteners like the Dzus fasteners (http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/dzus.htm). So when you load the car onto the trailer, just take the bumper off. Put the bumper in the car or in the bed of the tow vehicle. Then when you arrive at the track, unload the car and put the bumper back on.
__________________ 2009 BMW 335i Coupe, Alpine White/Black Dakota, 6MT
2010 Audi S4, Ibis White/Magma Red, 6MT
I was actually thinking about making the front bumper easily detachable with quick release fasteners like the Dzus fasteners (http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/dzus.htm). So when you load the car onto the trailer, just take the bumper off. Put the bumper in the car or in the bed of the tow vehicle. Then when you arrive at the track, unload the car and put the bumper back on.
You could do that, but I really think the coilover method is faster, and less of the PITA because the bumper just stays on the car. Keeps the bed of the truck from being more clustered, and the bumper is less likely to get damaged..
All you do is jack the front subframe, spin the coils and let it back down. No tools required at all..
I've actually though of doing that, nice to see someone using that method. Most people I have suggested it to just use ramped-up blocks at the front of their ramps onto the trailer.
That is the method that I use and it works fine for me. Though the locking collars would work out just fine too, though then you have more weight on the suspension, but I think it really just comes down to personal preference. I think it is a very creative idea.
__________________
If you only knew the power of the Lude...
'94 Porsche 968 - National PCA HPDE Instructor
'98 Red Base Prelude - 02 & 03 DSP Champion - Sold
"Straights are for fast cars. Turns are for fast drivers." - SCCA Solo2
I've actually though of doing that, nice to see someone using that method. Most people I have suggested it to just use ramped-up blocks at the front of their ramps onto the trailer.
I do that in addition to spinning the coils..
Back on subject.
The best cheap mod I ever did is spherical radius rod bearings...
One Mod to never try. Do not attempt to swap your UCAs for more caster in the front like the civics and integras. You will get HUGE amounts that will bind and break axles...
I do that in addition to spinning the coils..
The best cheap mod I ever did is spherical radius rod bearings...
From what I remember the radius rod had a pair of bushings, what did you replace with the bearing? I assume you replaced the bushings, but how I guess. Are you pressing a spherical bearing into the cross member somehow???
It's just like the OPM piece. You install a bearing carrier where the bushings go, and it bolts to the cross member. You then use spacers to set caster.
It's just like the OPM piece. You install a bearing carrier where the bushings go, and it bolts to the cross member. You then use spacers to set caster.
Exactly, its the best 130$ to spend out there in the handling department. And its the ONLY thing I support with OPM Autosports. Place order, hope they show up, then run away...
Exactly, its the best 130$ to spend out there in the handling department. And its the ONLY thing I support with OPM Autosports. Place order, hope they show up, then run away...
After seeing what they did to Vincent's control arms I'm not surprised others have had isssues with them.
Tricks of the trade? Hmm, not much I guess. I would say if you are running the Progess bar(or any large sway bar for that matter), check your D-Clamps around the mount bushings often, I have successfully torn out 2 of them, and they are 1/4" steel ones from Progress, not the stamped OEM ones.
Also, check the bushings on the bar. I have seen more than one car that installed an aftermarket sway bar with Poly or Delrin bushings, and even though they greased them, the hole around the bar was too tight, and the bar wasnt rotating under load, causing very bad bind and quite undesirable handling conditions. I found running your finger inside the bushings with some light sand paper does the trick if the bar is binding inside them.
No, he's talking about Tom Blaney. Yes, Tom makes (what looks like) the same parts. I can't recall his web site off hand, though. It's SBMS or something like that.
I'm in the prossess of make some radius rod bushing spherical bearing kits. I am making them from Stainless steel (they will be extreemly stong) and will have a better fit for the preludes than the other ones on the market. I think I can get the price to just under $100 for a set. I hope to have them out on a few test cars next month.
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I will be finding out if any other tranny parts between the 2 are interchangeable..
Most people I have suggested it to just use ramped-up blocks at the front of their ramps onto the trailer.
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