I'm installing a new LSD, FD gears, and a few other replacement parts. Does anyone know the part No. (if any) for normal ball type bearing that will fit on the diff, to take the place of the OEM thrust/roller type bearings?
If I can't find normal ball type bearings, that will work, then I'm going to need to find the preload inspection tool for the diff. Anyone know were to get this tool? My local honda dealer seems to be clueless on this.
There isn't a way to replace the conical bearings AFAIK. Just replace them with stock bearings, and set the preload to spec. I've done at least 5 or 6 LSD installs, and I haven't had any trouble with the stock bearings.
You need to make a preload tool, the Honda one won't work with an aftermarket LSD.
You could use a junk driveshaft and weld a socket onto it. I just used some washers, nuts, and all thread to make mine.
thanks again! I know on the older ITR's they can buy normal ball bearing type bearings to replace the thrust roller type bearings, but I guess Honda does not make a bearing that would work on 5th gens. I looked at other honda bearings and nothings looks like it would work.
Now, like you said, I have to make a new tool... prob. way cheaper than honda would charge even if they sold the tool that worked on our diffs.
I just used some washers, nuts, and all thread to make mine.
Back from the dead. I am installing an ATS LSD in my transmission and need a way to adjust the preload. Can you elaborate a little more on this? I can clearly see where you are going with the axle and the socket welded to it.
Edit: Something like this? I definitely can't do this. The ATS is clutch type and you can see straight through it. I hope I don't have to have some ball bearings made so I can measure shim clearances....
Last edited by nikolai911; 03-05-2007 at 02:31 PM.
Are you saying that you can't see through it? My Kaaz has a hole in the middle so I can pass a piece of 3/8" all thread all the way through it. I put a couple of washers on each end and tighten them down. Then I can check the preload.
Does ATS make a diff for the Prelude???? If so, that's news to me!
If you can't get a piece of all thread through it, use a junk driveshaft end.
Yea you cannot see through the differential. And they do make one, but it took forever to get it. I'm prolly the only person in the country with an H22 ATS LSD, much less a carbon LSD. I'm also looking into maybe getting some either custom metric ball bearings or some custom sleeves and shims that would make a standard bearing fit.
Of course it would prolly be 100 times cheaper to hack an axle and weld a socket to the end of it.
Even with standard bearings, you'll probably need to figure out some type of preload issue because the bearings have to support the side loads as well. If there is any play between the bearings, case, or diff, that's going to mean disaster.
all the FF diffs they sell are 1.5way. and i retract my previous statement, i CAN see straight through the differential, now that I'm at home and can look at it. I am just going to get a long 3/8 bolt, 3/8 x 1 1/2" washer and some 3/8 nuts and clamp it like pictured above. Just for clarification, the preload measurement is just to measure how much torque it takes to start the differential turning, right?
You probably won't be able to find a bolt long enough with enough threads on it. Buy all thread.
Do you have a Helm's? Follow the procedure in the Helms. If you deviate from the procedure, you can get way out of spec results. I know from experience. Make sure you put a nice coat of oil on the bearings. You'd be surprised how much that affects the preload reading.
Do you have a torque wrench that will read from 0 to 24 in*lbs?
Yes the preload is the torque required to start turning the diff. Make sure you spin it really good after you assemble the case (with only the diff inside). When you first assemble the case, it takes a lot of torque to turn the diff. Then it gets easier.
BTW, getting all the shims right sucks. I ended up buying every single diff shim and mainshaft shim for the H22 trans!
Im shooting to do it this weekend. The clutch housing bearing for my countershaft was warped (possibly from when I heated the bearing race) and I'm still waiting for it to come in before I start reassembling the transmission. Either way, I will end up needing to order more shims once I take my preload measurement.
I think I'm going to have to buy alot of thrust washers. I have the "K" washer and the diff spins without setting off the torque wrench at 25in/lbs. Not what I was expecting.
Nevermind. I thought I had a K. I just looked at my receipt and I had bought an A for some reason. I was thinking of buying a large group of thrust washers and skipping every other one, like F, H, J, L, etc. Have you found that stepping up a washer usually increases the preload by about 3-4ft lbs like the Helms says?
No, the Helms has never been accurate in that regard. Have you tried your stock shim? Also, make sure the bearing races are fully seated. That can throw off your readings.
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