KENLUDE97

Ok i got my progress bar on my car. I have yet to test it out, being that it is winter here in NY I was thinking about the differance between it and the stock bar. 23mm hollow -vs- 27mm solid.

What is the % differance? Either with all 3 setting or just the firmest? Or is there a formula that i could use to caculate it.

I know that EVERYONE says that its great and so much stiffer. But i like to know the #'s. Anyone got any idea?


Thanks
Ken

__________________
"Racing improves the breed."-Soichiro Honda
"Without racing, there is no Honda."-Soichiro Honda
"Honda is racing."-Hirotoshi Honda, President of Mugen

Paul H22

I bet Billy has the numbers on how much stiffer it is.

KENLUDE97

BTW Paul. Love the color

Come on Billy!

__________________
"Racing improves the breed."-Soichiro Honda
"Without racing, there is no Honda."-Soichiro Honda
"Honda is racing."-Hirotoshi Honda, President of Mugen

71dsp

There is a formula. Give me some time to get it posted (I'm at work). I'll probably have to do it tonight after I get home.

nikolai911

If you wanna do some math, scroll to the bottom of the page.

http://www.timskelton.com/lightning/...anti_sways.htm

KENLUDE97

Well i don't "wanna" do the math. But THANKS for the link :-)

No hurry Billy. Just wondering.

__________________
"Racing improves the breed."-Soichiro Honda
"Without racing, there is no Honda."-Soichiro Honda
"Honda is racing."-Hirotoshi Honda, President of Mugen

Paul H22

Anyone find out yet?

I'm gonna guess... 269.69%... yeah...

KENLUDE97

I started to use the supplied forumla, but i guess that i need the length of the bar.... and i have net been out to the car since i made the post.

But if anyone knows PLEASE let us know!

__________________
"Racing improves the breed."-Soichiro Honda
"Without racing, there is no Honda."-Soichiro Honda
"Honda is racing."-Hirotoshi Honda, President of Mugen

mtbprelude

The simplest equation to roughly calculate the change in stiffness of a sway bar is:

(New diameter/old diameter)^4 - 1.

So:

(27/23)^4= 1.891 - 1 = 89.91% STIFFER, or 189% of the stock bar. (6 of one half a dozen the other...)

However this assumes the bars are equal in all dimensions except diameter.

You can use Fred Puhn's equation:
500,000 D^4 / (0.4244 x A^2 x B) + (0.2264 x C^3) = lbs/in
A - Length of end perpendicular to B (torque arm - inches) to mounting hole on sway bar arm
B - Length of center section (inches)
C - Length of end (inches) from bend to mounting hole of the arm.
D - Diameter bar (inches)

Of course that only works for the soild bar: so you can figure out the stock bar rate.

For a hollow bar the equation changes, so that D is not the diameter, but the thickness of the tubing, or something like that... I don't have my chassis books right here.

__________________


2007 FP... 6fth; 2008: just tryin not to be DFL

Joeboxer212

Can anyone rec any good adjustable endlinks for the progress bar around $100? And I'd like them to not squeak either.

KENLUDE97

Well there aren't any that we "know" are going to work for $100

billy (71dsp) makes some really HIGH quality ones... But they are $$

I made mine for arround $100. I think that they will work. I went with Metric over the typical Standard sizes. I think that most of the problems come from the "slop" in translating from Standard (7/16=.4375 from 12mm=.4724) So there are impacts everytime that you enter the corner and exit the corner. There for prematurling wearing out the Rod Ends.

That is at least my train of thought. We shall see if it works or not. As soon as the weather clears out here in Upstate NY. I also threw in some endlink seals. For the $1 per seal that they cost i figured that it could not hurt.

Good luck
Ken

__________________
"Racing improves the breed."-Soichiro Honda
"Without racing, there is no Honda."-Soichiro Honda
"Honda is racing."-Hirotoshi Honda, President of Mugen