Opinion - Should I remove the front anti-sway bar?- UPDATED!
UPDATE - I ran my first event this weekend with the front sway bar off! Dramatic improvement! This was on a small, quick track (Pocono North Course - 1.5 miles) with 3 slow turns (downshifts to 2nd required for 2 of them on a stock FD). With the front bar off, I definitely had to be smoother, but rotation happened much sooner and I felt less mid corner push as well (might've been my imagination).
My friend (in his B18C5 swapped EF hatch) followed me for several laps & commented that I was lifting & carrying the inside rear tire on several turns; so I believe the rear end is where I want it to be in turns of stiffness!
Now I just have to work on weight-loss & the gearing. My friend in the EF hatch runs the prelude front brakes & the same 225 width tires as my prelude. At the end of a session, we came in & measured front tire temp.s. His hatch was ~110 across the inside front tire & my prelude was ~130. His weight is around 2200 with him & mine is around 2850 with me in it. So, he was ~1 second faster through the infield. I could push/over-drive for a lap or two, but I would just over-heat the tires rather quickly. I just have to start stripping more weight out.
As far as the gearing, the 4.266 FD M2B4 is just not good for shorter tracks (or most tracks). I'm really thinking about picking up an M2F4 with a 4.71FD.
Anyways, thanks for everyone's advice on removing the front bar.
-Chris
Previous:
I'm trying to decide if I should remove the front sway bar on my 4th gen. track car (set-up for NASA TTE). I'm currently running SPSS-3 Konis with 750 Front & 1000 Rear with a ST Rear anti-sway bar with upgraded endlinks. I run ~2.5 camber in the front & approx. ~1.2 in the rear. Also, the car is overweight - it's 2860 with me in it (and the weight distribution is 65%F, 35%R)
This past weekend at watkins glen, I was still experiencing major push mid-corner & it's driving me insane. I've played with pressures & shock tuning on the rear and it doesn't help significantly. I think I either need more rear sway bar or less on the front. I know several of you have removed the front, but is 750 enough front spring rate if I decide to remove the front anti-sway bar?
Last edited by luder94si; 06-04-2007 at 07:37 PM.
Reason: UPDATE
I don’t use a front sway bar and run 750 front springs (900 rear w/Progress RSB). It will feel a little funny at first, as you will load up the outside wheels immediately at turn in. Maximum G will not go up but you will get there faster. You will have to be a little smoother with your had movements, you can't get away with jerking the wheel. Quick transitions, like a chicane can be tricky and you will likely loose a little speed through them at first.
__________________ David Rierson
Marcucci Motorsports
98 Prelude #53 NASA Honda Challenge
03 Acura RSX
04 Nissan Armada
06 Kawasaki KLX250S
When you turn in, it will load up the outside front tire faster and unload the rear inside tire faster. This will help rotate the car quicker. On my car I feel this works better for me on slower corners but makes faster corners or quick transitions tricky.
__________________ David Rierson
Marcucci Motorsports
98 Prelude #53 NASA Honda Challenge
03 Acura RSX
04 Nissan Armada
06 Kawasaki KLX250S
When you turn in, it will load up the outside front tire faster and unload the rear inside tire faster. This will help rotate the car quicker. On my car I feel this works better for me on slower corners but makes faster corners or quick transitions tricky.
Exactly! I need help in the slow stuff! I only hope that I won't sacrifice too much on the high speed cornering (ie. tricky at the limit)! Plus, it'll take a couple more pounds off the front.
This past weekend I was devouring my buddies (PTE 240sx, PTD SE-R, & spec. miatas) on the high speed turns (4th gear sweepers) but I was getting eaten alive in some of the lower speed turns. I just want to get the car to rotate so I can get back on the gas & go!
If it does become too tricky with the front bar off, has anyone found a smaller front anti-sway bar that might fit the 4th or 5th gen?
I would just go with higher front spring rates if you get too much rotation with no front bar. Or you could have the best of both and put a spoiler on the back that would only create downforce on the rear at higher speeds...
__________________ David Rierson
Marcucci Motorsports
98 Prelude #53 NASA Honda Challenge
03 Acura RSX
04 Nissan Armada
06 Kawasaki KLX250S
Last year when I was still running the Prelude in STS I was looking at parts diagrams online for Accords to see if any of those would fit. It was hard to tell if any of them would fit. The looked like they were less stiff then the Prelude though. I focused mainly on the 93-97 Accords.
__________________ Paul
2009 Mazdaspeed3 | 1995 Miata | 1999 Crystal Blue Base - bought 6/13/02, sold 3/11/09
I disconnected the front sway bar last season and found that the car turned in better... especially in the wet where I was just getting a ton of push. But I also had a ST front sway bar. I do notice that the front rolls quite a bit so I might try installing the stock one (or SH) back on until I increase my spring rates.
I disconnected the front sway bar last season and found that the car turned in better... especially in the wet where I was just getting a ton of push. But I also had a ST front sway bar. I do notice that the front rolls quite a bit so I might try installing the stock one (or SH) back on until I increase my spring rates.
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