Which Lug Nuts? - Honda Prelude Forum

TimeRacer · 12-04-2005, 02:26 AM

Been trying to do some reasearch on some lug nuts and find ones that will stand up to the abuse the OEM ones have taken which includes around 20+ wheel changes per year. From what I'm seeing, if I want to leave them on for any prolonged period of time I want to make sure they're a closed design so that eliminates a lot of what's on the market. These are going to be used for my Kosei K1's so I need the conical seat. Thus far it seems like my choices are:

Rays Engineering - $110
Mugen - $100
McGuard Spline Drive - $90

Though I'm open to more suggestions. The main factor has to be durability and reliability. So none of the Kyokugen or other lugs that have a track record of being annoying.

71dsp · 12-04-2005, 07:12 AM

I use Buddy Club, and they appear to have held up well. I use them because of my extended lug studs, so it's not exactly what you're looking for, but I thought I'd toss that out there.

bdb · 12-04-2005, 08:01 AM

I use the Buddy Club extended ones as well. No problems.

paulyg · 12-04-2005, 12:40 PM

I bought some generic spline drive lugs off of Ebay for my Rotas and I have not had any problems so far (**knock on wood**) and I had the wheels on and off about 7 times this past summer.

Paul H22 · 12-04-2005, 01:29 PM

I got some generic conical lugnuts from O'Reillys. They were pretty cheap. 20 lugs for 27 bucks. If I ever get some extended studs I'll go with some sort of open ended lugs.

yield · 12-04-2005, 01:38 PM

Friend and I both use McGard spline and neither of us have had an issue.

LowFlyin' · 12-04-2005, 05:45 PM

Don't use Kayokugen. I bought them, and 2 of them wouldn't thread. Since they were from Japan, warrenty was basically bogus. I talked to the guy I bought them from, and he scrounged up a couple extra lugs he had from the shop, but it cost me $8 to get them to me. ...and then neither of them would thread either.

...and the key (they are 7 sided) broke while using a Snap-On torque wrench set @ 87ft.lbs

71dsp · 12-04-2005, 05:53 PM

Not that it matters because Kayokugen are crap from what I've seen, but why torque the lug nuts to 87 ft*lbs?

TimeRacer · 12-04-2005, 08:10 PM

Has anyone had any problems using open ended lugs for semi-extended (never more than 2-3 weeks daily driven) periods of time? Though since they are going to be daily driven occasionally when autocrosses one week after one another locks would be nice. I think Works, Rays and Mugen and McGuard come with locks. Though it would be nice if they didn't get marred up too much like I see a lot of the Rays (Al?) lugs.

If I go with open ended seems like I can add Buddy Club and Daiyama into the mix as well.

alphajesse · 12-04-2005, 08:35 PM

McGuard are crap.. I've broken the key when torquing lugs to spec, and had to pay to have them drilled off.

LowFlyin' · 12-04-2005, 08:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 71dsp

Not that it matters because Kayokugen are crap from what I've seen, but why torque the lug nuts to 87 ft*lbs?

That is spec for the Kayokugen lugs.

Paul H22 · 12-04-2005, 08:39 PM

Some lug nut talk on the honda tech road racing board.

http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=488245

71dsp · 12-04-2005, 08:43 PM

Spec for the lug nut? I've never heard of a torque spec for a lug nut. Strange.

Quote:

Originally Posted by LowFlyin'

That is spec for the Kayokugen lugs.

Paul H22 · 12-04-2005, 08:50 PM

^^ We had lugnut torque specs to go by at NTB. I remeber big ass trucks had a torque spec of 140+. Smaller trunks 100-120. Most cars were 75.

We would check the torque with a torque wrench before sending the vehicle out.

KB798 · 12-04-2005, 08:51 PM

More for aesthetic purposes, I wouldn't go with colored lug nuts. Even the black Rays one that I have get scratched easily if you're not careful removing and torquing them down.

alphajesse · 12-04-2005, 09:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 71dsp

Spec for the lug nut? I've never heard of a torque spec for a lug nut. Strange.

Pretty sure there is one in the Helms.

TimeRacer · 12-04-2005, 09:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alphajesse

Pretty sure there is one in the Helms.

I think what Billy's talking about is that most nuts themselves don't have a certain torque rating. It has to do more with the seat and bolt than with the nut.

So is there any good locking conical lug nuts out there?? Just because it'll be daily driven occasionally I'd rather not run lockless.

monk3y · 12-05-2005, 02:37 AM

i'm disappointed in the Rays Lugs i just bought. they bind to the provided keys every time i torque them. not that bad, but enough to slow down my wheel changes enough to piss me off.

also, this is brand new, fresh out of the box--i can't imagine what happens 50 wheel changes later and the thing is totally stripped.

to make it all worse, i dropped a lug on the road. they are light though. and they are pretty.

however, i've had the best luck with my gorilla spline drives. the keys break, but they're only a couple bucks to replace.

MRW · 12-05-2005, 09:24 AM

I use buddy club also.
I torque mine down to 90lbs/inch

Mugenlude · 12-05-2005, 12:33 PM

I'm running extended Aluminum Skunk2's when racing. I used them on my Prelude and on now on my Civic. They are just like any other aluminum lugs that I have seen, you need to be careful with them or they become "loose". I have re-tapped mine once to clean them out and try to keep them in good shape, but they are still loose. I probably average 30 changes a year (once on, once off = 60 times).

I run Gorilla lugs on my Prelude for the street and I have had no problems with them. Mine are black in color and they have become scratched up over time so some of the black color is gone. I haven't had any problems with the lugs or the spline-type key that comes with them. I probably have about 50 changes on that set of lugs, I wouldn't hesistate to buy them again ---> I think I paid about $50 for them.