Looking for neutral setup, not necessarliy extra rotation
Currently have Neuspeed sways front and rear (should mention that front bar is same diameter as stock, just a little bit stiffer).
Need firm but streetable ride.
So, how about these spring rates:
450F/400R
450F/375R
I was happy with the Tein SS front rate of 450 which is why I used that as a starting point. Not really sure how much of a change in rate is really noticable - 50lbs? 75? 100?
450/400 will definetely be noticeable from the SS, thats over 150lbs additional rear spring, which is where you feel it most in our cars anyway. It wont be bad though, definetely streetable.
450/400 will definetely be noticeable from the SS, thats over 150lbs additional rear spring, which is where you feel it most in our cars anyway. It wont be bad though, definetely streetable.
Good to know. Probably not worth dropping the rear another 25lbs then if 400R is pretty streetable?
I'm riding on 450/475 on my Koni Yellows, and it's definitely streetable. I was quite surprised at how smooth it was compared to my previous setup of Tokico HP/Neuspeed Sport. I thought that it was going to be a lot harsher, but although it was stiffer the ride quality wasn't compromised.
^^^Hey..those are my exact same rates too
But once I revalve my Konis, I'll be going higher. What's your weight?...I'm about 2800lbs.
About the ?, if you're not looking for extra rotation, don't buy the same or stiffer springs for the rear. My previous setup (450f/380r) was very close to the stock balance...just way stiffer.
Of course if it was me, I love rotation...nothing like flying around a decreasing radius sideways while on throttle
This is a pretty common question regarding spring rates. Everyone seems to like anything in the 400-550 lbs range for the rear. Remember you have other means to adjust rotation such as shocks, tire pressures, and the biggest is alignment. All of these thinks play into how a car feels, and everyone likes their car to feel a certain way. It's all about your driving style, you just need to pick something and use it, then adjust as needed ---> there are no standard spring rates that are needed.
If everyone is going to list there setup they need to include all the info.... even then driving style can throw a wrench in the hole mix.
When I ran 450F/450R I had to run a smaller contact patch on the rear tires to get the rotation I wanted --> 215/45/16 on 7.5" wheel and 205/50/15 on 6.5" wheel (RT-215 Azenis - 43F/34R tire pressures). OTS Konis 1/4 from soft, rear full stiff. This was with stock front bar/ST rear bar. My toe was set at 0 front and rear. With your larger front bar you are going to have less oversteer than my setup (unless you have toe out somewhere).
I suggest 450F/550R for most people that run the same size tires all around and a larger rear bar. If the setup is too loose you can reduce oversteer easily by increasing tire grip in the rear (more pressure) or softening up the rear shocks. Also note that a normal person isn't going to see a 1/4 turn different in the shocks, so make drastic adjustments at first so you can feel a difference.
I like to use the 3-step approach with many things in racing (brake points, shock adjustments, etc.). If on your first try you go too far, the second time you need to back it off almost too much, the 3rd try is the one in the sweet spot. If you take baby steps it takes you too long to find the limit, and your day is over.
I should also mention.....
I seem to setup my cars fairly loose because I'm a smooth driver. Most people that jump into my car complain about it being too loose. They complain about throttle lift oversteer, well if you were online you wouldn't have to lift, you are supposed to be accelerating!!! Either that or they are just lifting too much.
The fact is that loose is fast, but if you can't drive it loose it's really slow!
I'd recommend switching out the neuspeed rear bar in favor of an adjustable rear swaybar, like progress, to fine tune the turning characteristics of the car.
I'd also ditch the neuspeed front bar and go back to stock, unless you really like it.
This may seem like a no-brainer, but after running on my Koni/GC for a week, I realized that you need to match the stiffness setting on the Konis to the GC in order to produce the smoothest ride. If the dampers are too soft, then the ride is really bouncy - likewise, if the dampers are too stiff, you can feel every pebble on the road and even the smallest pothole will make you feel like you broke something.
Make sure you play around a little with the settings, and what seems to work for me is 1 full turn from soft all the way around.
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