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Old 04-22-2008, 10:19 PM   #1 (permalink)
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D Stock Honda Prelude SH Mods

I am autocrossing my 2000 Honda Prelude SH and it is currently in D Stock Class. I enjoy being in a low class, but I would like to be eligible for a trophy, in order to do that I want to prepare my car to the fullest potential. If anybody out there has prepared their Prelude for D stock by SCCA rules I would appreciate their insight into the most important parts to buy first and which distributors, brands, and parts are recommended to keep the budget for the best value. Most times paying an extra $50 can give a substantial increase in the potential of the vehicle over taking the cheapest way out, but the extra little bit isn't always worth another $1000, especially on a college student budget. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 04-22-2008, 11:44 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I would say first thing find a Type S intake... keeps it stock but the flow and power is substantially better and about the same $$$ as a AEM or similar. And enjoy your SH, I certainly do
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Old 04-23-2008, 08:15 AM   #3 (permalink)
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You may get more answers if you posted this in the autox forum.
In any case, if I remember correctly, slicks are still allowed in stock classes?? That would probably be the best thing you can do to lower your times.
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Old 04-23-2008, 01:30 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by boymeetsfence View Post
I would say first thing find a Type S intake... keeps it stock but the flow and power is substantially better and about the same $$$ as a AEM or similar. And enjoy your SH, I certainly do
You are not allowed to change the intake in DS, so the Type S intake would be illegal for DS use. The Type S intake would have to supersede the original OE part in the Honda computer system, which is doesn't.
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Old 04-23-2008, 01:44 PM   #5 (permalink)
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You are somewhat limited on what you can do in DS. You are allowed DOT approved tires (Hoosiers DOT's and/or Kumho 710's) on stock size wheels (+/- 5mm offset), a different FRONT sway bar, and allowed to change normal maintenance items.

If you are new to autocross I would look into an indexed street tire class, in those classes you follow all Stock Class rules except they limit tires to something with at least a 140 tread wear. In the street tire classes I would recommend something like the Bridgestone RE-01R.

As far as front sway bars go, it's really a driver thing. Typically with FWD car you would want to add a larger REAR sway bar to induce oversteer, however, that isn't allowed. Some guys use a larger front sway bar to reduce body roll, but they pay for it with more understeer. Others reduce the size of the front sway bar (or remove it all together) to help induce oversteer at the cost of body roll. It is something that you really to try out yourself.

Maintenance items include shocks (Koni Sports are recommended (yellows)), different brake pads (I like the Hawk HP+'s), replacement filters (K&N air filter), replacement exhaust (you choose brand/model, less striction = more power = louder).

Unfortunately there isn't someone really racing 5th Gen. Preludes to give you the setup advise. Jamie might be able to help you out as he ran a 4th Gen Prelude in Stock Class, I ran mine in STS before moving on to the Civic you see in my signature.

Hope this helps, BTW where in Wisconsin are you located. I go to all of the Milwaukee Region and WAI events at Miller Park.
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Old 04-23-2008, 02:58 PM   #6 (permalink)
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You are somewhat limited on what you can do in DS. You are allowed DOT approved tires (Hoosiers DOT's and/or Kumho 710's) on stock size wheels (+/- 5mm offset), a different FRONT sway bar, and allowed to change normal maintenance items.

If you are new to autocross I would look into an indexed street tire class, in those classes you follow all Stock Class rules except they limit tires to something with at least a 140 tread wear. In the street tire classes I would recommend something like the Bridgestone RE-01R.

As far as front sway bars go, it's really a driver thing. Typically with FWD car you would want to add a larger REAR sway bar to induce oversteer, however, that isn't allowed. Some guys use a larger front sway bar to reduce body roll, but they pay for it with more understeer. Others reduce the size of the front sway bar (or remove it all together) to help induce oversteer at the cost of body roll. It is something that you really to try out yourself.

Maintenance items include shocks (Koni Sports are recommended (yellows)), different brake pads (I like the Hawk HP+'s), replacement filters (K&N air filter), replacement exhaust (you choose brand/model, less striction = more power = louder).

Unfortunately there isn't someone really racing 5th Gen. Preludes to give you the setup advise. Jamie might be able to help you out as he ran a 4th Gen Prelude in Stock Class, I ran mine in STS before moving on to the Civic you see in my signature.

Hope this helps, BTW where in Wisconsin are you located. I go to all of the Milwaukee Region and WAI events at Miller Park.
I am located in Neenah, I have been involved with the FVSCC in Appleton, I currently debating joining the Army, which would help with money greatly, but with that I would probably end up joining either WAG or the Milwaukee region as well as staying with the Fox Valley Sports Car Club. I think I might actually try something a bit radical with what you said and get a front sway bar and front slicks, making my front end sticky tires. I know it isn't recomended to do though.
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Old 04-23-2008, 03:34 PM   #7 (permalink)
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It definitely isn't recommended, you will have a SERIOUS loose situation on your hands. If you want to reduce grip on the rear of the car you could try running some skinnier R-compound tires (like 225's on the front and 205 or 195 on the rear) to reduce grip.
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Old 04-23-2008, 05:04 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I would at least swap in Koni Sports for the shocks, and some r-comps. How much autocross experience do you have so far? If not alot, I would just do those mods for now, and as you get better, then see what mods (with DS rules of course) would best benefit you. I wish I could give you some more advice, but I went from STS, to STX, to DSP.
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Old 04-23-2008, 10:13 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I have run for about 3 years now, about 2 or 3 events a year autoxing. I just bought the prelude about a month ago after my 3rd car blew up, so I was tired of beaters. I also have experience racing street stock oval cars at WIR, and I ran a weekend at Road America in my fathers camaro. My father is a road racing instructor, but I still ask for advice from any and everybody. Especially when it comes to parts and fitting into classes. I am still new to the concept of SCCA classes compared to NASA. That and I want the most competitve car in my class. I want to race a car that is competitve and at my driving skill, and thus far the prelude is almost perfect. With a few more competitve tweeks I think I have a strong chance at a championship run witheh FVSCC in appleton.
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Old 04-24-2008, 07:54 AM   #10 (permalink)
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If I was try to run the Prelude competitively in DS, I would be trying to fit the 245/45/16 Hoosiers on the front.

I fit the 225/50/16 Hoosier on 16x7 +42mm wheels on my lowered car with some rolling of the lip. The 245's are a 1/2" smaller diameter, and on stock wheels (16x6.5 +55mm) I would be more concerned with rubbing on the inside.
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Old 04-27-2008, 07:33 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I think I might actually try something a bit radical with what you said and get a front sway bar and front slicks, making my front end sticky tires. I know it isn't recomended to do though.
Mixing the tires is a bad idea...I did something similar on my second gen Prelude after trashing a race tire one weekend, and it was very squirrely. You also don't need the front bar -- you can adjust the handling an amazing amount simply by fiddling with the tire pressures. Set the front tires up around 46-48 psi, and start with the rears at about 30 psi. Adjust down a little if you're pushing, up if you're loose in back. I ran my 4th gen on a stock suspension at 48f/25r, which worked really well to rotate the car by lifting off the throttle a bit. If you're running street tires rather than R-compounds, you might need a couple more psi in the tires...depends on the tire's sidewall construction.

Parts-wise, make two investments. First, get a good set of shocks -- Koni Sport (yellow) shocks are your best bet. Set 'em about half-hard in front and a bit off full-hard in the back. Second, if you still have the budget, invest in a set of R-compound tires. I wouldn't go with Hoosiers to start -- Hoosiers are notoriously short-lived, don't take abuse well, and are really expensive! Personally, I'd go with a set of 215/40-16 Kumho V710s -- the Kumhos are more durable and forgiving. The 215s are a bit shorter than the stock 205/50, which shortens your final drive ratio -- an old stock-class trick which will help you dig out of the corners. It'll shorten your top speed in 2d gear by a couple mph, but in my experience, the low-end punch is worth it.

More important than anything else, run more events! Skills you learned on the track will serve you well in autocross, but they're not exactly the same, and as you undoubtably know, all the parts in the world won't make up for lack of seat time. You're running against guys doing 1-3 events a month...you need more than 2-3 events a year to keep your skills up.
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Old 04-28-2008, 09:13 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Thanks for the info, I planned on trying to run the local clubs full season and by running the season building up a good rookie of the year run. I do alot of research on racing techniques, I have been a track rat forever. I am definitely looking into the koni yellows, I think that they are going to be replacing the antiroll bar as the first or second thing to do. Besides that I also am looking at a Flowmaster Exhaust, What will that do for HP about 5 or almost unsignificant? its a cat back system.
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Old 04-28-2008, 10:08 AM   #13 (permalink)
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For a stock class car my list would go like this... tires (obvious), shocks, brakes... I would hold off on the front sway bar, I would work on balance with the tire pressures and alignment.
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