altieribuilt

hey guys, i got a 94 lue setup for auto x and handles great and have no problems, im just gettin new tires and alignment soon, and wondering what you guys are setting your camber at, wether its in spec our out for better turning radius. the thing with that is arent you having less surface contact on the road by hanving your tire angled so much? wondering if that would really hurt traction and have issues, anyways lookin for some comments. thanks in advance!

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if you cant dazzle em with your briliance, baffle em with your bull****.
Since '87
Altieri Built

Kool-Lude

First off, we need to know what your current setup is.

If you haven't autox'd before, then I recommend you do nothing other than make sure your motor and suspension are in good working order. And just get a basic alignment (for now) to factory specs. Plus, unless you have aftermarket camber kits or a way to increase caster, the only real adjustments they can make is toe.

Then go to an autox event and see how the car handles AS IS. That way you'll have a better idea of what needs to be changed to tune the suspension to YOUR driving style. Not all drivers are alike...what works for me may be uncontrollable for you. Example, I like my car a bit on the loose side so I can induce oversteer at will. But that can also be very uncontrollable if not done right, especially if it comes on unexpectedly.

What tires are you thinking of buying? Tires can make a world of difference.

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Qveon

i think i have 1deg in the front and about .5deg in the back.

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paulyg

Having negative camber does hurt your acceleration and braking traction some. But it benifits your turning traction more. If you have -2.5 deg and your body rolls 2.5 deg in a hard turn the outside wheel is straight up and down. The answer is, if you are serious about autocrossing you want as much negative camber as you can live with.

I have -2.5 in the front. About 1.5 of that is from lowering, and another 1.0 from Progress camber kits. The rear is about -1.7, all from lowering. The balance is pretty good. Still more understeer than oversteer, but I get decent "rotation" by loading the front tires before a turn, or modulating the throttle in a turn. I have 400 lb springs and stock sway bars f&r. If you have a more agressive rear sway bar or a big rear spring bias you may want more rear camber. The STS Civic Si guys are running near or over -3.0 deg rear camber b/c it makes the breakaway of the rear tires more progressive.

For a proper autocross alignment you will want some toe out in the front. 1/16" total (1/32" each wheel) is good. 1/8" total (1/16" each wheel) is better. But if you are daily driving your car I suggest the former (1/16 total). Aggressive toe out can ruin your tires quickly and can cause wander on the freeway. In fact agressive camber causes the insides of your tires to wear more quickly. If you autocross often you won't notice b/c the autocrossing beats up your outsides and it evens out.

And I agree, you should really post up your spring, shock, sway bars and tire setup to get the best advice.

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Paul
2009 Mazdaspeed3 | 1995 Miata | 1999 Crystal Blue Base - bought 6/13/02, sold 3/11/09

mtbprelude

Turning radius and camber, or toe are unrelated. Turn in response (transitional response) and steady state (sustained) cornering are all affected by them.

I had ~1.5-2 degrees of negative camber on my car, back in the day, with aggressive toe out in the front, my tires wore decently. But I certainly wasn't expecting >8000 miles out of them.

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2007 FP... 6fth; 2008: just tryin not to be DFL