hi....i live in so cal and i recently got interested in autoxing and heres what i need help on...
weapon-r 4pt seatbelt harness... will i be good with just that... because i be hearing that there are some 5pt harness. even if its a 4pt harness do u think it willl do the job the same as a 5pt. harness.. the weapon-r i see on ebay are pretty cheap and i am wondering if thats the way to go.
this is what they look like....
i have a wwrs front lip (1stgen) and sideskirts, and a kombat rear bumper with no grille on it. i WAS wondering if there was anyway i can test the areodynamics of it ... because i really want to get into this and if the bumper gots to go its got to go. i know a way u can test the cars aerodynamics is a wind tunnel but i unno where they are or if its rea expensive so yeh... can i get any insight in this...
like i said i am completely new at this.... im dooping my money in the suspension first cause i can feel every pebble really hard when i go over it.
i want to look at the advice from you guys... experienced and prelude owner/racers too ..
1. 4 point harnesses are okay for autocrossing. I certainly would not use them for street driving or track events. That being said, I prefer a 6 point harness, but a 5 point will do. Problem with a 6 point is, there are hardly any seats made with 2 separate holes in the crotch for a 6 point harness. Using a 5/6/7 point with a stock seat is also okay for autocrossing, but I would not use it for anything else. Problem is with a stock seat, the 5/6/7th point(s) cannot perform their intended functions and can cause more harm than good in an incident.
2. Aerodynamics in autocross are amost a moot point because the speeds are so low. If you watch some of the modified class cars, you'll see that they do have wings, but they're HUGE. From what I understand, the wings have to be so large because the speeds are so low. In a production based vehicle, aerodynamics may play a small role in autocrossing, but driving ability is so much more than aerodynamics that it's not worth messing with.
3. Search here, there is TONS of information on suspension setup, race seats, harnesses, etc.
4. I would not run a race seat (i.e. one piece bucket) with a harness without some type of roll over protection. Autocrossing might be okay as roll overs are so rare in autocrossing, but I certainly wouldn't want to do it at a track event. Call me paranoid, but I've seen (and experienced) some of the things that can go wrong at "just" a track event.
If you want to get serious about atuocrossing forget about the body kits. Like Billy said it pointless at 60 mph, which is as fast as you will get. Forget about the seat for a while. A lightweight and supportive racing seat is good, but there is other more important stuff you should spend money on. Forget about the harnesses for now for the same reason.
Concentrate on tires and suspension. You say your car is too stiff now. What spings/coilovers do you have? What kind of tires do you have? Do you know what class you want to or have to run in?
Speaking of classes, in your poll you mentioned and H22A and 5spd tranny. The 5 spd will definitly help. But if you plan to drop a JDM engine in your car that is considered a swap and will put you in a much tougher class where you will be severly disadvantaged.
The best advise I can give you is get yourself some good tires. And get out there and start racing. Don't think you need to do a whole bunch of stuff to your car in order to start. It will take years to get good. You can improve the car as you yourself improve.
__________________ Paul
2009 Mazdaspeed3 | 1995 Miata | 1999 Crystal Blue Base - bought 6/13/02, sold 3/11/09
I'd actually drop both ideas. Weapon-R isn't known for their safety equipment so I wouldn't use their products unless they're certified by a sanctioning body but I don't believe they are. I'd buy a Sabelt or something long before I'd consider Weapon-R. Forget about body kits, it won't make a bit of difference at autocross. Measuring the CD isn't going to be easy unless you have connections.
Have you taken inventory of your mods and figured out what class you're running in? You don't want to get a mod that will bump you out of that class.
Unless you're running tires that will support huge amounts of G force, I wouldn't worry about a harness either. Most people run without them in autox. Remember, autox is parking lot racing. It isn't much more glorious than that. Save the money for entry fees. My $.02.
Dan
__________________
"The only thing that needs adjusting is the nut behind the wheel."
thanks for the input guys. i am running max speed coilover sleeve kit . on kyb agx adj shocks. the shocks are recently blown because the springs are to low or something that the shock end up being longer that the coilovers... i plan on callin kyb to see if they will replace it and buy springs instead...my homeboi says h&r are pretty good springs. for tires i am running low pro 205;... right now one of my tires are gone... it down to the metal.. so it sucks... what you guys think i should do... replace that one or buy all new 4 tires... the others are in alright condtition. so yeah.
for tires i am running low pro 205;... right now one of my tires are gone... it down to the metal.. so it sucks... what you guys think i should do... replace that one or buy all new 4 tires... the others are in alright condtition. so yeah.
It's recommended to replace 2 or 4 tires at a time or you'll be slightly uneven. Idealy you want the 2 front or 2 rear tires to wear equally. You'll end up having to replace tires more often buying 1 tire at a time.
Depending on if your tires are any good or not, you may just want ditch them to buy 4 of the same type.
What type of tires are you running? Brand, model, size, etc.
For us to give you better information we need to know EVERY mod on your car.
First off i would drop the max speed coil over springs. They are not know for there quality and performance. Buy a quality spring or put the stock back in. If you want to have a adjustable spring go with Ground controls. H&R are pretty nice springs. But they are more of a "sporty" spring. They are a progressive spring not a Linear. A linear will be "sharper" for auto-x. But DON'T drop the car to "scraping" level. You need the suspension to be able to travel.
Why are you thinking about motorswap? Is yours on it's last leg? Or are you looking for more power? I think that a motor swap should be the LAST thing on your list. Improve the driver then the car.
I bought a 4 point to use wile autocrossing. The CG lock was not out yet, or I did not know about it. I bought my 4 point of Ebay. It is a "old" circle track harness. It is a "real" harness none of the poser "wepon R" types.
Good luck and keep us posted. There is LOTS of good info here.
Welcome to the addiction!
__________________
"Racing improves the breed."-Soichiro Honda
"Without racing, there is no Honda."-Soichiro Honda
"Honda is racing."-Hirotoshi Honda, President of Mugen
I disagree about the negative feedback on the 4-point harness. One of the things I noticed very early when I was getting into autoX was that I was constantly having to brace myself when cornering. AutoX maybe low speed, but you are taking corners quick enough that you will slide around in your seat...especially a stock one. I have the Scrothe Rally4, and I love it. It keeps me in my stock seat, and lets me feel everything the car is trying to tell me. Going against others recommendations I also have this as my only restraint system, and my Prelude is my DD. You can pick up a Scrothe harness for $150 per side...and I think it was one of the best investments I've made. Aside from a dedicated set of wheels/tires and driving instruction.
__________________
Chris @ DeatschWerks (Fuel Nerd)
1991 CRX SiR
1991 Civic Wagon RT4WD
For us to give you better information we need to know EVERY mod on your car.
First off i would drop the max speed coil over springs. They are not know for there quality and performance. Buy a quality spring or put the stock back in. If you want to have a adjustable spring go with Ground controls. H&R are pretty nice springs. But they are more of a "sporty" spring. They are a progressive spring not a Linear. A linear will be "sharper" for auto-x. But DON'T drop the car to "scraping" level. You need the suspension to be able to travel.
Why are you thinking about motorswap? Is yours on it's last leg? Or are you looking for more power? I think that a motor swap should be the LAST thing on your list. Improve the driver then the car.
I bought a 4 point to use wile autocrossing. The CG lock was not out yet, or I did not know about it. I bought my 4 point of Ebay. It is a "old" circle track harness. It is a "real" harness none of the poser "wepon R" types.
Good luck and keep us posted. There is LOTS of good info here.
Welcome to the addiction!
sorrry for the late response... i just got all my stuff together and thought i update you guys and get more suggestions and what not.....
been in an accident couple months ago.. so i lost a rim...
rims: 3x Motegi dp6 17" rims tires: 205/40z r17 wanli ~ hankook suspension: kyb agx adj. with sparco springs, i think its a 1.5 drop ..bought it used. generic, front rear strutbars, lower tie bar. motor: sohc f22a/automatic with generic air intake. running on 10w30 oil. stoppers: brembo crossdrilled/slotted front, and bradi crossdrilled/slotted rear.
added: 4pt. roll cage from optionsautosalon, bride steering wheel with a nrg quick release. "Sabelt" 4th seatbelt harness
planning to get new rims or similar rims... to save money i was thinking about getting 2 18" on the rims... cuzz im in the show division in my team...
if not .. can u suggest anything else? i got 3 of the motegis right now... still lighter than stock... from what i think...
is the steering wheel installed?
cause that right there bumps you out of STS if your car comes with an airbag from the factory.
what rollbar did you get?
as far as for wheels, if you plan to replace them anyway and want to be competitive, get some 15's. I would get a 15x7 or 15x7.5 if you can find some.
Get 4 good tires on the car and go drive it for 1-2 years as is. Only worry about replacing the tires, and brake pads for now. The rest of the stuff is pointless until you are a couple of years in.
[EDIT] If you really slide around in your seats awhole bunch, just by a lap belt. It gives you 90% of the stability benefits of a harness for AX. YMMV
Autocross (and road racing) is 99% driver.
I have no idea what being in the show division of your team means....
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jacques,Mar 8 2006, 12:15 PM
Damn you guys and your Miatas!
2007 FP... 6fth; 2008: just tryin not to be DFL
Last edited by mtbprelude; 03-07-2006 at 03:12 PM.
is the steering wheel installed?
cause that right there bumps you out of STS if your car comes with an airbag from the factory.
what rollbar did you get?
as far as for wheels, if you plan to replace them anyway and want to be competitive, get some 15's. I would get a 15x7 or 15x7.5 if you can find some.
oh man.. wat... it bumps me out of sts ????
well i have a bride steering wheel w/ a momo hub ... so meaning i took the stock steering wheel off with the airbags... which is why i bought a 4pt harness to be on the safe side...
man.... tell me im still good for the tracks or autox.....
Get 4 good tires on the car and go drive it for 1-2 years as is. Only worry about replacing the tires, and brake pads for now. The rest of the stuff is pointless until you are a couple of years in.
[EDIT] If you really slide around in your seats awhole bunch, just by a lap belt. It gives you 90% of the stability benefits of a harness for AX. YMMV
Autocross (and road racing) is 99% driver.
I have no idea what being in the show division of your team means....
meaning my rims... i need some showy rims/rims i can autox with cuzz i dunt have much money to have both...
If you're in the show division of your team and your money is that tight, I'd reconsider showing your car. It takes A LOT of money to be competitive on the show circuit, if you're serious. At the latest HIN here, my friend's prelude (who has EASILY 5x the mods you have, and was in the mild division) didn't trophy, but the prelude that did (same team) had lambo doors, custom paint, s2k tails, s15 headlights, h22 turbo, etc. (a buttload of money in that car)
If you really want to autox your car, I'd say pick up some cheap stock wheels, or used rotas off of someone for that. All of the mods in the world wont make you a better driver. (they'd probably make you worse) What you need is seat time. Drive what you have for a year and then make upgrades where you see necessary AFTER THAT. I know a lot of people with fixed up cars who have a heightened sense of confidence because of their mods. But really, they take really ugly/bad lines, don't know when to brake, and overall drive really unefficiently. (I say badly) I can keep up with them fine, and when they ask what suspension I have, and I answer "stock," they're dumbfounded.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ExodusFX
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