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Old 07-04-2004, 03:09 AM   #1 (permalink)
uul
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what kind of buffer should i get?

Is there any specific speed of buffer in order to remove the water spots?

i saw one in sears today, it has 3800 random orbits per minute
and costs about 30 bucks. is this powerful enough?
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Old 07-04-2004, 03:38 AM   #2 (permalink)
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There are a lot of variables that can affect whether or not you can get water spots off with your buffer. If the spots have not etched itself into the clearcoat enough then there might not even be a need for a buffer. You could possibly even remove them with a clay bar or a vinegar wash. From there you're dealing with different pads with different cutting power, abrasiveness of polishes, speed at which the buffer is spinning at, and etc.

I suppose a better way to judge whether or not you'd need a buffer is this: how long have the water spots been on your car and how acidic is the water? Is it like reclaimed water, regular faucet water or filtered water?
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Old 07-04-2004, 12:02 PM   #3 (permalink)
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it was from that stupid sprinkle water.
Been there for like a week. I tried to use the Z2,Z5,and Z6 but no luck.
Anyway, i emailed the Zainno guy and this is wat his reply,

====> Hi,I got water sports everywhere on my car. I tried Z5 polish, but the spots are still there.Is there any of your product that can clean that spots. thank you


"Nothing in the industry will prevent water spots or acid rain etching...

Zaino can not guard off water and what is in the water, water spots are
remnants of the minerals that was in the water that avaporated on the
surface. It depends on the water and by in part what state you live in and
what
chemicals are in the rain water.

You can not let water evaporate on the surface, no matter what kind of
wax or polish you are using. Never wash a car, especially dark colors in
direct sunlight. Try to wash your car in the morning or late afternoon or
evening...
Never wash or use cold water on a hot paint surface.

You must dry the car very well after washing. Another great tip is to
use a Toro 210mph
Electric leaf blower. Dries your car in about 5 minutes.... without even
touching the paint surface....

If you car gets caught in the rain and the rain drop evaporate on the
surface, immediate action must follow by washing the car and use the Z-6
to remove fresh water spots, that is one of the uses of Z-6.

Most 'fresh' mineral deposits (water spotting, acid rain, etc.) can be
removed with Z-7 Show Car Wash or Z-6 Gloss Enhancer spray. If they have
been on the car for a while and Z-6 or Z-7 will not remove them. Use
household white vinegar full strength. This is acetic acid and will
loosen and remove the mineral deposits and not harm the paint surface. Most of
the time,
the water spot etching you see is simply the hardened mineral deposit,
giving the illusion of etching into the paint. Believe me, when these
mineral deposits harden. They become really tough and hard to remove.
The trick is to not give them a chance to harden.

If the above fails, then use the Z-18 ClayBar to remove them....
If those water spots on your car have been there for a while. They might
be already etched into the clear coat. If Z-18 ClayBar will not remove
them. Then what you are seeing is an etched spot in the paint surface.

Although, I am totally against using an abrasive product on todays clear
coated finishes. It seems like, in your specific situation, you don't
have a choice. I would try 3M Foam Polishing Pad Glaze Swirl Mark Remover
part #39009 by hand, not by machine, using very light pressure. This should do
the trick. Be
careful when doing this and only do the water spot areas, as the 3M is
abrasive and will remove paint material. Don't forget to reapply Z-5 or Z-2 as
the 3M products will remove any polish.

If you opt to go with the 3M Foam Polishing Pad Glaze... see following tips...


3M Foam Polishing Pad Glaze use By hand:
Simply apply a small amount (about the size of a quarter) to a cotton
diaper or piece of cotton towel and rub back and forth into about a 1' X
1' section using light to medium pressure until it starts to dry out.
Then take a second towel and lightly rub back and forth until the polish
residue disappears and the gloss comes up. If there are still some
swirls visible you can repeat this step until they are minimal. I prefer
using a less aggressive product a couple times instead of using a more
aggressive product once. After you are done you can
wash with Z-7 and apply Z-5.

Hope this helps. Need more advice call me.--


Thank You,
Sal Zaino
(732)833-8800
http://www.zainobros.com
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Old 07-04-2004, 03:04 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Although Sal is indeed telling the truth, some of things he told you is IMO a bit exaggerated. I'm referring to his statements about using a paint polish on the paint. He's probably just cautioninig you that using a polish can have adverse affects, but more than likely it won't. The Pad Glaze is a very light product and like he said, it's a good idea to start low on the abrasive scale and work your way up. The only 3M product I've used was the 3M Perfect-It Swirl Mark Remover for Dark Paints which is a more abrasive product, and that really didn't do much on leveling the clearcoat by hand. It has fillers in it, which will hide away some of the swirls but eventually they do come back.
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Old 07-06-2004, 11:52 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Nonetheless thats a well written reply with good precautionary advise on washing a car especially with dark colors.

Love this detailin forum
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Old 07-08-2004, 02:50 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Me too
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Old 07-11-2004, 09:35 PM   #7 (permalink)
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call some detial shops and get some type of acid and be careful. that would be easiest.
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Old 07-12-2004, 02:25 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by mavis179
call some detial shops and get some type of acid and be careful. that would be easiest.
If you want to go with the acid route, start with your basic household item: acetic acid (a.k.a distilled vinegar). Use a 50/50 solution of vinegar and water, and wash the car with it. If mineral deposits don't budge then increase the pH by adding more vinegar and less water.
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