well you use meguiars first, b/c it will remove any wax previously applied.. It is best to use it with a rotory buffer so I would recommend breaking down and buying one(you can get one for like $40).. just get decent size, atleast 8"..
applying it by hand wont get you near the results by machine would
applying it by hand wont get you near the results by machine would
It depends on your technique. There are professional detailers that only work by hand who can produce far better results than someone with a rotary buffer. Of course it takes a lot of experience and a strong arm, but hand buffing is not the end of the world. For instance, over at Autopia, look up the name ScottWax. However, if you're comparing a pro/very good hand detailer versus a pro/very good machine buffer user, then the machine will produce better results.
Use a 100% cotton terry towel and fold it into 1/8ths. Apply a polish, like Meguiar's No.9 or No.2, onto the towel, and then use firm, even pressure going with the airflow of the panel to remove the marring.
It depends on your technique. There are professional detailers that only work by hand who can produce far better results than someone with a rotary buffer. Of course it takes a lot of experience and a strong arm, but hand buffing is not the end of the world. For instance, over at Autopia, look up the name ScottWax. However, if you're comparing a pro/very good hand detailer versus a pro/very good machine buffer user, then the machine will produce better results.
Use a 100% cotton terry towel and fold it into 1/8ths. Apply a polish, like Meguiar's No.9 or No.2, onto the towel, and then use firm, even pressure going with the airflow of the panel to remove the marring.
I don't know it just says on the back machine application recommended or some crap like that.. I never tried it by hand but it took quite a while to smooth things out with my 11" 3100 rpm buffer, it would take weeks to do it by hand hehe.. Maybe in other applications, but not this particular product..
3M Swirl Mark Remover vs. Meguiars Swirl Remover 2.0 --- what are the major differences between these two products? Which one would yield a better result if using a machine buffer? Thanks..
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I don't know it just says on the back machine application recommended or some crap like that.. I never tried it by hand but it took quite a while to smooth things out with my 11" 3100 rpm buffer, it would take weeks to do it by hand hehe.. Maybe in other applications, but not this particular product..
Yea - I think most of the professional Meguiar's polishes say to apply by machine, but they all can be applied by hand. I was just commenting on the importance of how you polish.
Quote:
Originally Posted by beaty
3M Swirl Mark Remover vs. Meguiars Swirl Remover 2.0 --- what are the major differences between these two products? Which one would yield a better result if using a machine buffer? Thanks..
3M has a lot of different SMRs...which one are you talking about in particular? If you're talking about a 3M SMR that would be comparable to the Meguiar's 2.0, it comes down to user preferrance. I've used 3M SMR for Dark Colored Cars by hand it was more of a filler rather than a polish. It wasn't very abrasive, and just hid the swirls rather than level the clearcoat. I haven't had a chance to use the Meguiar's 2.0, and the only Meguiar's polish I've used so far is the No.83 (DACP), and I absolutely love it.
Anyway back to the topic, when you're comparing a 3M SMR that's relatively the same in abrasiveness to the Meguiar's 2.0, it comes down to what you like. The best way to tell would be to divide a hood or any other large panel in half and apply the 3M SMR to one side and the 2.0 to another. Afterwards, compare the results and see which one looks better to you.
Thanks Brian. I was searching for info on the swirl mark removers and I happened to see that you mentioned Menzerna products (Intensive Polish and Final Polish) in some other threads. What's your impression with them, especially the less aggressive Final Polish? Do they really have the ability to remove/reduce the swirls (rather than just to fill the grooves) as advertised by the manufacturer/retailers?
I have an about 3" diameter spot (minor swirls/rubbing marks) on the hood that needs to be fixed. The rest of the hood is literally perfect. Is it ok just to spot polish the damaged area? If so, how do I blend it in with the surroundings so that you can't tell where the spot had been? I assume that even the job is done properly you may still be able to see some differences between the polished area and the untouched area under certain angles and/or lighting conditions?? BTW, what's the BEST working polish you have ever used or would recommend in this situation? Thanks!
__________________
If a man speaks in the middle of a forest
& there is no woman around to hear him,
is he still wrong?
Thanks Brian. I was searching for info on the swirl mark removers and I happened to see that you mentioned Menzerna products (Intensive Polish and Final Polish) in some other threads. What's your impression with them, especially the less aggressive Final Polish? Do they really have the ability to remove/reduce the swirls (rather than just to fill the grooves) as advertised by the manufacturer/retailers?
I have an about 3" diameter spot (minor swirls/rubbing marks) on the hood that needs to be fixed. The rest of the hood is literally perfect. Is it ok just to spot polish the damaged area? If so, how do I blend it in with the surroundings so that you can't tell where the spot had been? I assume that even the job is done properly you may still be able to see some differences between the polished area and the untouched area under certain angles and/or lighting conditions?? BTW, what's the BEST working polish you have ever used or would recommend in this situation? Thanks!
The Menzerna twins are notoriously also known as Glue-zerna...meaning they're hard to break down. I experienced this as well, but I think it was because I applied too much product, and I was using too low of a speed with the PC. The reuslts were fantastic; I managed to cut down my swirls, scratches and blemishes by 90%. This was quite remarkable considering the paint was touched by the soft side of a Scotch-Brite pad . Anyway, I do indeed recommend both the Intensive and Final polish.
I found the Final polish to have some minor abrasiveness, but it's usefulness was found at burnishing the paint after using the Intensive polish. The car looked great after using the Intensive, but after a pass with the Final polish, I couldn't believe just how much deeper, darker, and more reflective the paint became. It's effectiveness in polishing depends on the condition of your paint. I would use it on very minor and light swirls, even with a yellow pad on a PC on 6. Otherwise, I'd stick with a more abrasive polish and use the Final polish to clear up any haze leftover.
You could spot-polish an area, but it would probably be more noticeable at a certain angle. On a black car it'll be glaringly obvious (most likely), but if you have a silver or light colored car, not really. You could always switch pads at any time so you don't have to use any abrasive polishes on a surface that's already in great condition. Or what you could do is spot-polish the area, and then go over the entire hood again with a lighter polish like the Final polish to burnish the paint.
I've only had hands-on abrasive polishes experience with the Menzerna Intensive Polish and Meguiar's DACP No.82. I've been practicing more with the DACP, and I find it to be quite versatile. Both have produced phenominal results, and with any other polish, it comes down to personal preferance. The DACP starts out like a heavy compound and diminishes to a much finer polish. The Menzerna Intensive has more of an "oily" feeling to it, so you'll need to spritz a 50/50 water/alcohol solution after each pass to wipe away the residue. Both have worked great, and I think until you try either one you'll have to decide for yourself. As for myself, I'm split down the middle .
Wow..what a information! Thanks a lot man!! I'm ordering the Notorious Twins tomorrow. I don't think I'd ever use the Intensive one on the Prelude but I'll definitely try it on my FBP Civic Hatchback, which hasn't been waxed since last summer.
__________________
If a man speaks in the middle of a forest
& there is no woman around to hear him,
is he still wrong?
Wow..what a information! Thanks a lot man!! I'm ordering the Notorious Twins tomorrow. I don't think I'd ever use the Intensive one on the Prelude but I'll definitely try it on my FBP Civic Hatchback, which hasn't been waxed since last summer.
Better divide the clay bar up 'cause it'll be eaten up quickly .
Ok got my Glue-zerna and some LC pads today, and I have a quick question... if I use the Final Polish with a finishing pad, would it still offer some kind of polishing effect? Since the swirl/rubbing marks are very minor on my hood I'm hoping to use a combination as gentle as possible. I know I can try it but if such combo is proven to be no effect at all then I wouldn't have to waste a pad.
Thanks in advance..
__________________
If a man speaks in the middle of a forest
& there is no woman around to hear him,
is he still wrong?
Ok got my Glue-zerna and some LC pads today, and I have a quick question... if I use the Final Polish with a finishing pad, would it still offer some kind of polishing effect? Since the swirl/rubbing marks are very minor on my hood I'm hoping to use a combination as gentle as possible. I know I can try it but if such combo is proven to be no effect at all then I wouldn't have to waste a pad.
Thanks in advance..
A finishing pad is generally used for applying sealants only - it isn't designed to have any abrasiveness at all. It's definitely a good idea to work your way from the least abrasive combo to the most abrasive combo when polishing, and your thinking is right. However, since no one likes to waste their time, you're better off trying the final polish with a white polishing pad first. Play around with the PC settings before going to a yellow pad in case that doesn't work as well.
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I don't know it just says on the back machine application recommended or some crap like that.. I never tried it by hand but it took quite a while to smooth things out with my 11" 3100 rpm buffer, it would take weeks to do it by hand hehe.. Maybe in other applications, but not this particular product..
. Anyway, I do indeed recommend both the Intensive and Final polish. 
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