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Old 10-19-2008, 07:51 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Headlight restoration step by step with pics..

I saw a few threads like this with before and after pictures, and I am sure there is one that has step by step pictures somewhere, but I figured no harm in making another in case there isn't.

I found a thread that uses different sandpapers but lists almost the same products, and a very similar process. Also, I felt no need to remove the headlights from the car to do the job, why create more work if the finished product is not better? He chose to paint the headlight housing, which was probably his reason..
headlight restoration tips
Quote:
Originally Posted by preludejtstyle View Post
From lude_vtec:

You are going to have to remove the lights from your car to do this and it WILL take quite a bit of time and elbow grease. In fact, it's just plain tedious. But here are the steps and things you'll need.

Things you'll need:

1. Bowl of water
2. 2 Sheets 400 Grit Wet/Dry Sandpaper
3. 2 Sheets 600 Grit Wet/Dry Sandpaper
4. 2 Sheets 1000 Grit Wet/Dry Sandpaper
5. 2 Sheets 1500 Grit Wet/Dry Sandpaper
6. Turtle Wax No. 5 (heavy duty/red) rubbing compound
7. Turtle Wax No. 7 (light/white) polishing compound
8. McGuire’s Clear Plastic Cleaner
9. McGuire’s Clear Plastic Polish
10. Soft terry cloth towels

Steps:
1. Remove lights from car.
2. Use the 400 grit sandpaper and start sanding the surface of the lights lengthwise in only a side to side motion. DON'T CHANGE DIRECTIONS (up/down or circles). At first don't use any water, but add water as the clear coat starts to come off. You'll be able to tell where it is and isn't coming off.
3. Repeat above procedure with the 600 grit sandpaper after all of the clearcoat is removed (use water).
4. Repeat using 1000 grit sandpaper with water.
5. Repeat using 1500 grit sandpaper with water.
6. Now use a soft terry cloth towel to work in the Turtle Wax heavy duty rubbing compound using same side to side motion. Work that in for about 5 minutes and rub clean and dry.
7. Get a new terry cloth towel and work in the Turtle Wax Light Polishing Compound. Work it in for about 5 minutes and wipe clean and dry.
8. Examine the lights and see that all of the clearcoat is gone and that most of the hairline scratches from the sandpaper are gone.
9. If it looks pretty good, apply the McGuire’s Clear Plastic Cleaner with a clean terry cloth towel. Work that in until it's clean and dry.
10. Now apply the McGuire’s Clear Plastic Polish with the same towel. After being rubbed in thoroughly, use a clean towel and wipe it dry. The light should look close to brand new.
I wouldn't mind advice on how to get an even better finish, I will probably go and get 1k and 1500 grit sandpapers and see how much that may improve the finished product.. because of impending rain and the sun going down, I was a bit constrained time wise.

Instead of the sand papers listed above I used 220 grit,400,600,800. The 220 grit removed the nasty yellowish stuff far quicker than 400 does, and all the scratches disappear. Total time spent on one headlight was about 20-30 minutes, though I will likely try again with finer sand papers later to get more of a brand new look. Maybe you can tell me if I should bother?

Products used(In order of use): Many many paper towels, Sand Papers named above, Turtle wax rubbing compound, Turtle wax polishing compound, Meguire's mirror glaze Clear Plastic Cleaner, Meguire's mirror glaze Clear Plastic Polish


The before pic of the headlight being done:


First step, use your lowest grit sand paper with water, making sure that in all sanding steps you make sure the entire headlight is done Equally. You should have a yellowish mess as pictured below, rinse and repeat until you get a white frothy mess as shown in a later picture.. once it is not yellow, you have removed most of what makes it look bad.


Even if you used a finer sandpaper than I did, it should look rather horrible like this picture:

It is not at all ruined, you will see how great it will look with some work.


You will progress from your lowest grit, mine was 220, to your highest grit using the same method. Others have said only do side to side motions, but the finished product will look the same as long as you don't spend less time on some parts of the headlight and neglect other parts. I skipped taking a picture after 400 grit, but here is after sanding and rinsing with 600 grit(Step 3):


This is what it should look like after all the yellow stuff has been removed, hopefully before getting to your 4th sandpaper grit(This was using the 800 grit):


Here is after sanding and rinsing with 800 grit(step 4):

800 grit was the highest I used, I have some 1000 grit somewhere, but I can't find it. Either way, you will see how much different it will look after using the products I listed above.


Step 5: Work the turtle wax rubbing compound into it as much as you can, adding fresh stuff once it has dried until you are satisfied. Remove like wax, or rinse it off and dry with paper towel. Will look like this before removed:


After removing it, you can see it should look better than after the last sand paper step:


Step 6: Like the last stuff, work the turtle wax polishing compound in, and remove as stated before with whatever method you feel most comfortable in. <Remember, these steps do the most to bring back the NEW look, so these are where you spend the most time!>


After removing the compound in step 6:

Close up:


Step 7: Already you should see a big difference. As before, use this and the next stuff as liberally as possible. The more effort you put in, the better it will look. Work the Clear plastic cleaner with paper towels, or if you choose, use some sort of soft material or a polishing rag for these last 2 steps. This is what it looked like after the plastic cleaner:


Step 7: Use the plastic polish in the same way, though I definitely recommend using something better than paper towels for this step, this is what makes the most difference appearance wise. Make sure you spend as much time as possible on these last 2 steps. This is after using the polish:


I think this is after I decided it wasn't going to start raining yet, so I polished some more:


Closer picture to show how little scratches there are:

There are NO noticeable scratches from far away, and the tiniest faint scratches from closeup.

Looking at the finished product of both:


I think I spent a total of 1 hour, maybe a little more. I may try going a little farther, I have seen pictures that make headlights look brand new, and that is my goal.

My questions:
How to protect the finished product. I have thought about getting Lamin-x for the headlights, but I am not sure the finished product shown above is good enough, so I could use some advice here.

Until I have the money for something like Lamin-x, should I wax it, or what would you use?

I hope this is helpful for someone.. I have done my wife's car, my brother in laws car, and at least another dozen for other people(50 bucks a pop).. Some stayed that showroom quality, others started to yellow again shortly after, but every one looked beautiful after the job was done.
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Old 10-19-2008, 08:02 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I just want to add why I start with a rougher sandpaper. If you use a finer sandpaper, say 400 or 600 grit, to remove all the yellow.. it will take MUCH longer than with a 220 grit like I used(I know, I have tried). Using a finer sandpaper means you spend more time in the beginning. Starting rougher means you can spend more time on the last steps which are what make it look the best.

The big scratches caused by the rougher sandpaper work out when you use the finer sandpapers, without spending any more time. Just thought I would add this before someone says something negative about starting with such a coarse grit.

And I welcome any tips that could bring my headlights to even newer quality, besides using a finer sandpaper at the end, which I already intend on doing.
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Old 11-26-2008, 09:30 PM   #3 (permalink)
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hey i just did this today but i used 1000 and 1500 grit sandpaper. i used all the compounds and polishes you do and it came out great thanks for the thread
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Old 12-01-2008, 09:30 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I bought a kit from AdvanceAuto, looked pretty good afterwards. Starting to fade a month and a half later... Lifetime warranty on that kit too, guess I'm going back there if I can find the receipt.

Why couldn't they just make them out of glass like my old civic?!
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Old 12-01-2008, 11:40 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Old 12-06-2008, 08:39 PM   #6 (permalink)
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There are products our there that you can use to put a clear coat on the headlights. I know MOC has it, and I think mothers or Meguiars has it as well.

Excellent write up btw. gonna have to save this
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Old 12-25-2008, 10:27 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I know I am a bit late here sorry but I will throw my two cents in here since I do paint/body work and detailing as my job (my business)... What was posted above works fine but I recommend not using too course of a grit to take as little off as possible and use your compound and buffer to do the work. I'd recommend using 800-1500 and then compound with whichever compound you prefer (I use Optimum for detailing and 3M for the body shop and like both). My step is to first clean the headlights very good, wet sand, wipe down and clean, compound with extra cut 3M, then regular 3M compound, Optimum polish, them Poli-Seal which is a polish/swirl remover and a paint sealant which is a sealant for headlights. You then need some kind of coating to put back over the headlights since you took a factory one off that is in the plastic. Like mentioned, look around they make some you can brush on or you can mask up the hood and car and use automotive grade clear coat. If you dont care or have the money to do it correctly then you can go to Optimum and buy their Opti-Seal which is a paint sealant that will last anywhere from 8-12 months. I use this on my paint, headlights, wheels, emblems, etc. Works great to keep the brake dust off of wheels and to wash dust and dirt off the wheels very easily when they do get dirty.
Only two squirts of this stuff will do both headlights and one little bottle can seal about 25 entire cars if I remember correctly.
Check it out and see what you think. Best way is to do an automotive clear but the sealant works fine as well as long as you keep up with it.
If you sand and buff the lights without sealing them then they will fade and oxidize again and sometimes to the point where it cannot be fixed a 2nd, 3rd or 4th time.
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Old 01-18-2009, 09:13 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Would this work ok with a headlight like this?
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Old 01-18-2009, 11:20 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Yes it will... Just take your time and wetsand it, then buff with extra cut compound and work your way up to a finer compound, then a polish and then a sealant.
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Old 01-19-2009, 06:03 PM   #10 (permalink)
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did some work on them today...

It still needs some work, there's still some hazing on the lense. I plan to go out tomorrow and get some good polishing compound to get the "haze" taken care of. They look great in these pictures, but believe me, there's still a distinctive difference between the "good" light and the "bad" light

Tools Used:
800 grit wetsand paper
1000 grit wetsand paper
2000 grit wetsand paper
Meguires PlastX
Buffing pad attachment/cotton buffing pad on cordless drill

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Old 01-19-2009, 06:08 PM   #11 (permalink)
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It looks heaps better than the first picture shown. Good job! Get some compound on a wool buffing pad and it will take care of it. Use a grey 3M polishing pad with some polish and it will take care of the swirls and very very light scratches left over and polish them right up.
I didn't know our Preludes had plastic lenses. My 93 has glass Stanley lenses and I thought they all did. I guess aftermarket one pieces do not...
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Old 01-19-2009, 06:26 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Wow your prelude has glass lenses? Hmm, never heard of them on a 4th gen. Interesting. These are real JDM headlight lenses... they just weren't taken care of, at all! (notice how all the red paint came off too )

So, wool buffing pad eh? Kinda nervous about that. What kind of polish should I use? thanks for your help man!
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Old 01-19-2009, 06:40 PM   #13 (permalink)
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www.optimumcarcare.com
Get their Poli-Seal. It is a polish and a sealant all in one. It's a polymer paint sealant that works awesome and will help add some protection to the lenses. You can add another sealant of your choice on top of that if you want or even use an automotive clear coat over it but that is all up to you. As for the wool pad, you dont have to use it. That is what I use and I am very comfortable with a high speed buffer and wool since I use it every single day. You can get small pads from Lake Country (look them up on Google) and get their wool/foam blend or foam cutting and polishing pads for the end of a drill which works great as well for headlights and around emblems when buffing and polishing your car.
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Old 01-19-2009, 06:55 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I'd like ot finish this up tomorrow morning, are there local places to buy this product? So far i've only polished it with Meguires PlastX and this

probably not abrasive enough, huh?

How about using turtle wax polishing compound?
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Old 01-19-2009, 11:16 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Yeah that will be fine too. Any kind of compound will be fine... Compound is NOT a polish though. Polish is a step you use after the compounding and swirl removing. Some polishes remove swirls caused from the previous compounding step and some do not. If you have a local Car Quest close by then pick up a bottle of 3M compound and 3M polish and your all set.
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Old 02-22-2009, 12:58 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Great post. Thnx! Will try to do it as soon as the weather makes up its mind. Cheers!
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Old 03-17-2009, 09:16 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by My01BlueLude View Post
I bought a kit from AdvanceAuto, looked pretty good afterwards. Starting to fade a month and a half later... Lifetime warranty on that kit too, guess I'm going back there if I can find the receipt.

Why couldn't they just make them out of glass like my old civic?!
I also purchased a headlight-restoration kit from Advanced a few months back. Not sure if it's the same product, but I'm very satisfied with the results and the finish has not faded, dullened, or oxidized at all.

This is what my headlights looked like when I first bought the 'Lude:


...and these pics were taken after I sanded, polished, and sealed the lenses:
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Old 03-24-2009, 05:57 PM   #18 (permalink)
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the clearcoat was comming off my right headlight so i used Meguiar's PlastX on it... I have to say im thouroughly dissapointed. The left looks 5x clearer/shineyer (still looks new)

Just sanded the crap outta the right headlight with 2000crit for 30ish minutes.. then applied and wiped. Just like the directions say.
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Old 04-07-2009, 05:08 PM   #19 (permalink)
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PERFECT! That was one thing I was looking into, I was about to order DEPO's, but this a hell lot of a better idea. Great write up
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Old 04-08-2009, 09:13 AM   #20 (permalink)
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I thouroughly recommend what others have said here about SEALING your work once done.. as always, it will go right back to normal eventually unless you seal it. Mine did. I am glad people shared tips how to seal the headlight.. I will do this again and I think I will try the optiseal that someone else mentioned.

And I hope I said in the original writeup that you don't have to start at so coarse a sandpaper, but I think it ends up spending less time trying to get the yellowish crap off.

I do have one question.. no where around here seems to carry 1500 or 2000 grit sandpaper.. where do you go for yours? Maybe I need to go to a paint shop I think.. either way, thanks for the approval and offerings to this thread!

(Funny that I just found my old post... I just saw an ad under my windshield wiper offering to do my headlights.. I guess they already look that bad )
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