I remember from a loooong time ago in middle school shop where we used steel wool to go over anything plastic that was sanded. You can try that. Also you might want to check out the detailing section. Hope this helps.
It looks pretty good except for a little haze which can easily be removed. I would hit it with the 2000 grip sandpaper for about 5 minutes just to make sure that there aren't any deep grooves. After that, use some paint polish. Bear in mind that you have to do this many times. Use a lot of pressure when you polish. Polish for five minutes at least and do it 3 or four times. Finish off with a good wax.
FYI, it took me at least 2 hours to polish my girlfriend's lights and they are about 1/2 the size of the Prelude's. You have to polish over and over to get a crystal clear shine.
__________________
97 EGP Base 5spd Prelude. Engine: DC short ram, DC SS headers, AEM pulleys, Random High flow cat, Mugen sport exhaust, Apexi VAFC. Suspension: Tein SS, Tanabe front lower tie, Neuspeed front upper strut, Neuspeed rear sway, Tanabe rear upper strut, DC rear lower tie, 17X7.5 5Zigen Typhoons with 215/40/17 Goodyear F1 GS-D3s. Other: Bride Ergo II, Spoon oil cap, Magnecor wires, relocated Odyssey 680 battery, Denso iridiums, Mugen pedals, Mugen lugnuts, shortened shifter w/ Momo airleather, Rotora slotted rotors and Endless NA-Y pads, Goodridge SS lines.
wax can be deceiving. It can bring a a shine to the surface by filling in the grooves instead of "cutting" them smooth. THe haze returns when the wax washes out. I've used metal polish, old-school tooth paste, and paint cutting polish (coarse or liquid 2000 grit) and the whole trick is even pressure, doing it over and over, or going with a circular polisher (for experienced or careful users). You have to watch the surface temp with power tools or you will melt the plastic and smear or tear it. You might be done with 600 or better paper. Go over again with 1000-2000, and just do many times with the past of your choosing. Don't give up. You really gotta keep the steady pressure on with the pastes as you apply and buff. Also, an old experienced wood worker told me never to sand with your hands...to always use an applicable block. In this case a 3M sanding pad would be best. It will keep the cutting surface uniform.
I actually found some McGuire's Plastic-X polish. Basically it's a wax/polish with some sand in it. I used about 1/3 a bottle and applied it using my orbital polisher. It's alright, but not looking quite new yet. The two lights took me about 1 hour to do.
Originally posted by pIOUs Also, an old experienced wood worker told me never to sand with your hands...to always use an applicable block. In this case a 3M sanding pad would be best. It will keep the cutting surface uniform.
Definitely true right there. You need to distribute the pressure as evenly as possible in order to have a smooth level surface. A sanding block or pad is the way to go.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
Linear Mode
