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Old 04-06-2008, 08:16 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Detailing question...

Hey guys, decided it was time for me to do a full wax of my car. So today after washing and drying, I applied the STEP 1 of the 3 step Mothers waxing system. Applied with applicator by hand, but used a random orbiter to take the wax off. Now the one I used was Simoniz, what I noticed was that there was a lot of lint left out on my car along with a little wax on my bumpers. Is the lint on the car normal, and will it come out with a simple wipe?

Also the wax on the bumpers is not a problem is it? I just planned on using the Back to Black to make it look good again.

Also is there any other brand of random orbiter that you guys can recommend.

Also my car has a few deep scratches and paint chips, along with some white spots on the paint (guessing from oxidation), what can I use to remove that?

Thanks for the help guys.
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Old 04-07-2008, 04:31 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Ijaz View Post
Hey guys, decided it was time for me to do a full wax of my car. So today after washing and drying, I applied the STEP 1 of the 3 step Mothers waxing system. Applied with applicator by hand, but used a random orbiter to take the wax off. Now the one I used was Simoniz, what I noticed was that there was a lot of lint left out on my car along with a little wax on my bumpers. Is the lint on the car normal, and will it come out with a simple wipe?

Also the wax on the bumpers is not a problem is it? I just planned on using the Back to Black to make it look good again.

Also is there any other brand of random orbiter that you guys can recommend.

Also my car has a few deep scratches and paint chips, along with some white spots on the paint (guessing from oxidation), what can I use to remove that?

Thanks for the help guys.
Step 1 of the Mothers' system is a paint cleaner. I'm not sure why you used a random orbit polisher to remove it. Since this is a cleaning /polish product you would have been better off using the random orbit for application.
I'm not familiar with the Simoniz products so I can not comment on that.
As from your post and what I can understand you haven't even applied wax to the car. You've only used step 1 of the Mothers' 3 step system. Lint on the car is left from poor quality towels or application pads.

If your bumpers are not painted yes you want to keep wax off them because they will stain the plastic.

Porter Cable 7424 is pretty much the standard for random orbit buffers.

Chips and deep scratches can not be removed with any special detailing product. It will have to be repainted.
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Old 04-08-2008, 03:53 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Hey Ijaz,

The lint that was left behind on your vehicle is most likely from poorly made Microfiber towels as spin_r_g said. The towels are most likely creating the lint in the first place so a simple wipe with the same towels probably will not help.

The wax on the bumpers will eventually become a problem if they are plastic, use an All Purpose Cleaner on the entire bumper and follow that up with a type of plastic protector. (preferably with UV protection)

I will Second the PC 7424, light, easy to use, and effective!

For the Scratches and Chips:

Chips can be filled with touchup to prevent rust for the time being, but will need to be repaired professionally eventually.

Scratches can be reduced with the PC and the Adam's Swirl and Haze Remover, this product with the PC will totally remove Spider Swirl. In depth paint freshening like this should always be followed up with a Quality Polish and Wax.

Let me know if this Helps, and if you have any other questions?

Thanks,
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Old 04-11-2008, 06:17 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks for the help guys, I was watching some of the videos on the Adams products site, really helped a lot.

The reason why I used my hand instead of the random orbiter is because I thought I could work it into the paint harder/stronger into the paint, because when I apply some pressure to the random orbiter it just becomes really slow.
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Old 04-14-2008, 03:31 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Is it bogging down? Are you running it with the little washer installed?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ijaz View Post
Thanks for the help guys, I was watching some of the videos on the Adams products site, really helped a lot.

The reason why I used my hand instead of the random orbiter is because I thought I could work it into the paint harder/stronger into the paint, because when I apply some pressure to the random orbiter it just becomes really slow.
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Old 04-14-2008, 05:52 PM   #6 (permalink)
 
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Hey Ijaz,


Chips can be filled with touchup to prevent rust for the time being, but will need to be repaired professionally eventually.

Scratches can be reduced with the PC and the Adam's Swirl and Haze Remover, this product with the PC will totally remove Spider Swirl. In depth paint freshening like this should always be followed up with a Quality Polish and Wax.


Thanks,
Really, will it FOR SURE. Make it look shiny and completely clean?

I have an issue. when i buff with a makita buffer, i use one of those non-cutting polishing pads and go over the area, such as a fender, at like 1100 rpm nice and slow. BUT i still end up with those light swirls. As in you can see the path i was traveling in the light. When i use polish and wash afterwards, it covers it all up. And it looks like glass.

BUT shouldnt it look like glass after i buff it without applying any polish and wax????

help me!

and can i get a link to the product you were referring to earlier. thanx
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Old 04-15-2008, 02:00 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Really, will it FOR SURE. Make it look shiny and completely clean?

I have an issue. when i buff with a makita buffer, i use one of those non-cutting polishing pads and go over the area, such as a fender, at like 1100 rpm nice and slow. BUT i still end up with those light swirls. As in you can see the path i was traveling in the light. When i use polish and wash afterwards, it covers it all up. And it looks like glass.

BUT shouldnt it look like glass after i buff it without applying any polish and wax????

help me!

and can i get a link to the product you were referring to earlier. thanx
This all depends on what you're doing and what products you're using. I'm not quite clear about the steps and products you're using. You said you use a Mikita buffer. Are you just washing the car then using a non cutting pad and attacking the paint dry? If you just wash the car and the paint has problems no it will not look like glass. I don't advise you to use a rotary buffer if you aren't completely confident about how to use them correctly. They can and will do more damage then good.

I believe in using the buffer for polishing purposes only. This includes removing swirl marks and fine scratches. You will need to use the appropriate polishing compound or swirl removing product accordingly. Your paint gets swirl marks and scratches from just daily driving and normal washing. If you do have these problems and you just buff the paint which it sounds like what you're doing, they will still exist, and you're just adding to the problem. This is why you need to use the correct products ie compounds and pads with the buffer to remove/minimize them.
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Old 04-15-2008, 05:22 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Really, will it FOR SURE. Make it look shiny and completely clean?

I have an issue. when i buff with a makita buffer, i use one of those non-cutting polishing pads and go over the area, such as a fender, at like 1100 rpm nice and slow. BUT i still end up with those light swirls. As in you can see the path i was traveling in the light. When i use polish and wash afterwards, it covers it all up. And it looks like glass.

BUT shouldnt it look like glass after i buff it without applying any polish and wax????

help me!

and can i get a link to the product you were referring to earlier. thanx
It sounds like one of two things:
  1. You're not using an aggressive enough polish/pad combination to polish your paint so there's no change in the surface other than gloss
  2. You're using too aggressive of a polish/pad combination when polishing the paint, and you're getting holograms
Sounds basic, but you should play around with what products and pads you're using. However, I personally think you're doing more harm than good by using a rotary. It's not worth paying an additional $120 or whatever it is to get a PC 7424/7336 now, but make sure you don't go too slow with your rotary and keep it moving along. Keep it flat against the panel as much as possible and avoid using the edges since it'll build up heat.
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Old 04-15-2008, 05:39 PM   #9 (permalink)
 
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well i use 3m polishing compound. I have like 4 pads. I usually only use the last two, one with a minimal cut, and the last with no cut.

I use 3m finishg compound with the no cut pad. I havent burned the paint or anything. It looks like and smooth. BUT in the light, i get tat hologram as you called it. It goes away when i apply some zimol wax to it, but i dont want it there at all after the buff!
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Old 04-15-2008, 08:19 PM   #10 (permalink)
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well i use 3m polishing compound. I have like 4 pads. I usually only use the last two, one with a minimal cut, and the last with no cut.

I use 3m finishg compound with the no cut pad. I havent burned the paint or anything. It looks like and smooth. BUT in the light, i get tat hologram as you called it. It goes away when i apply some zimol wax to it, but i dont want it there at all after the buff!
The wax has fillers in it which is why the holograms go away - you're essentially using a band-aid on a cut when stitches are needed...if that makes sense. Use the finishing compound with the minimal cut pad and see how that does. Try modulating the speeds (600-1200) and see how that works out.

Also, what kind of towels are you using? I hope you're using high quality microfiber towels - not the cheap ones you get at Wal-Mart in the big packs. Cheap towels can marr the paint, and the last thing you want to do is re-induce marring when you just removed it!
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Old 04-15-2008, 11:30 PM   #11 (permalink)
 
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i get microfiber towels in 3 packs at autozone usually
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