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Brake Upgrade Procedures
Here's a draft of the procedures I've written on the first step in brake upgrades - post corrections as you see fit.........
3rd Generation Rotor and Brake Pad Replacement
The following procedures apply to a 1991 2.0 Si. Consult manual for your specific year Prelude.
Tools Needed:
Wheel lug wrench
Jack and Jack Stands
10mm, 12mm + 14mm socket and ratchet
Impact Screwdriver w/ #3 Phillips Bit & Hammer
Torque Wrench
C-Clamp or Brake Spreader
New Screws that hold rotor to hub
Brake fluid,
Brake cleaner
12" of wire or a coat hanger
Wire Brush to clean excess dust and rust from brake areas
Kroil Penetrating Oil or Other
Rubber Gloves
(2) 8 x 12 mm bolts
Silicon Anti-Squeal Paste or other
Hand Cleaner & Shop rags
New Rotors & Brake Pads
Step 1: Loosen Front wheel lugs. Using your jack, raise the car from the center jacking point, located in front of the engine just behind the bumper (see shop manual diagram). Place jack stands rearward of each wheel at support points, and remove wheels.
Step 2: Remove the two ( 10 mm) brake hose bolts from the knuckle.
Step 3: Loosen the Top Caliper Mounting 8 x 1.0 mm bolt. Remove the 8 x 1.0 mm Lower Caliper Mounting bolt and swing caliper section up to access the brake pads parts.
Step 4: Paying close attention to brake pad Shims and Retainers location, remove Retainers, Shims, and Brake Pads.
Step 5: Remove the (2 inner most) 12 x 1.25 mm Caliper Mounting bolts from the caliper and using the wire or coat hanger, hang the caliper to the suspension. DO NOT let the caliper hang by the brake hose.
Step 6: Use the impact screwdriver to remove the (2) #3 Phillips screws that hold the rotor to the hub and pull the rotor towards you.
Note: If you cannot remove the rotor, install (2) 8 x 12 mm bolts into the holes provided and turn each only two turns per side till the rotor moves off the spindle hub.
Before proceeding: Put notation on removing Splash Guards here – pg 18-17 in shop manual.
Step 7: Paying close attention to the Power Slots Left or Right Rotors, place the new rotor on the hub. Install New Phillips Screws to hold the rotors on (just hand tighten). And liberally clean rotors with brake cleaner.
Note: If you are using slotted rotors, insure that you have the correct rotor for the side you are working. There should be a marking or tag indicating which is left (drivers side) or right.
Step 8: Ensuring that the master cylinder does not overflow with fluid, press the Caliper Piston back in to its housing using a C-clamp or Brake Spreader tool, and position caliper in correct position. Tighten the (2 inner most) Caliper Bolts to 56 lb-ft. Replace Brake Hose bolts to Knuckle.
Step 9: Replace brake pads with new pads. Apply Anti-Squeal grease to the shims as per product instructions. Paying close attention to the correct position of the inner and outer shims, install shims, brake pads, and retainers. Swing the Caliper down and replace the 8 x 1.0 mm Lower Caliper Mounting bolt. Torque the Upper and Lower Caliper Mounting bolts to 24 lb-ft.
Step 10: Add brake fluid if necessary and reinstall the wheels and lower the car. Torque the Wheel Lug Nuts to 80 lb-ft. (Alternate in a cross pattern, top to bottom, left to right in 20 lb-ft increments to prevent uneven stress on hub and to avoid rotor warping.
Step 11: Depress the brake pedal several times to make sure the brakes work, then road test.
Step 12: See article on, Rotor Seasoning and Pad Bedding to complete the entire process. (Article too long to post here)
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