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Old 12-08-2001, 05:38 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Wheel Studs

Just got finished replacing two of them on the front drivers side. My helms manual called for a lot more work than needed, so if anyone needs to do this, here is how I went about doing it:

1 - Break lugs free, jack up car and support on jack stands/ remove wheel.
2 - Unbolt the two bolts for the fluid line (10mm)
3 - Unbolt Caliper / remove and set out of the way0(17mm)
4 - Remove rotor (Philips screwdriver)*
5 - Remove dust shield (used vise grips to break screws loose)
6 - Hammer out studs just enough to were you can cut off the heads (hammer)
7 - Cut off stud heads, hammer studs out (sawzall)
8 - Flatten one side of the stud head (bench grinder)
9 - Insert the new stud with the flat part against the hub
10 - Put a few washers on the new stud and then put on a lug and tighten, it will pull the stud into the hub.

Now just put everything back together ... would be a good time to have your rotor turned if needed. If anyone has an easier way to complete this task, I'd love to hear it.

* - I used a broken Philips screwdriver, it is a short craftsman screwdriver with a large head (perfect fit) I held it with vise grips and then just hit it a few times with a rubber mallet ... broke the screws loose on the 3rd hit... worked really well and did not strip them at all.
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Old 12-08-2001, 06:30 PM   #2 (permalink)
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thats how we do them anyways.

but washers aren't always a great idea as the stud can still go in crooked. i have an oversized nut( ) that is placed first then use the angled side of a lug nut to go first before gunning it through. this in most cases automatically centers the stud.
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Old 12-08-2001, 06:52 PM   #3 (permalink)
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that may be how you do them, but that is not how the helms manual says to do it nor did the mechanics at Honda. So I was just trying to help save anyone looking to replace a wheel stud some time.
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Old 12-08-2001, 08:06 PM   #4 (permalink)
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my shop does that...and the four shops i've worked at do that.

go to most any shop out there and they'll do the same. who wants to take the time and money to press out a hub and change out bearings for a $2 stud? no shop will wish that on their customer. even at honda they try to avoid it if possible i've been there and my buddy at union honda/bmw/jag/volvo does the same.

you'll see shops doing it for the 90-94 accords and the hyundai's, etc. that have pressed rotors only cause that is the ONLY way to do it. or on the bmw's, benzos, etc cause the dealers like to charge the foo foo peoples.
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Old 12-09-2001, 06:36 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Glad to see that you finally got them in! Let Mike know that I will be out there Thursday and try to get him to bring his digicam. Thanks Mike.
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Old 10-31-2002, 01:11 PM   #6 (permalink)
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ok.. I just broke a stud removing my front wheel. I have no idea why because the car was sitting there for over a day so the stud couldn't have heated up. guess I must have messed up the last time I put my wheel back on (my torque wrench isn't working too well so maybe i had the wrong torque on there)

anyway, I think I'll try this method to replace it, without having to remove the hub. I just have a few questions. in step 7 you say to hammer out the stud, do you mean hammer it out away from the car? it seems like it would be tough to get in there with the knuckle in the way.

and in step 8, do you mean I have to grind down the new stud? and when you say grind it on one side, do you mean to take off part of the head, like you'd be removing about 40% of the surface area right? wouldn't that make the stud weaker?

one last question, can I use a hacksaw to cut the old stud? or do I really need a sawzall?

thanks for the help.
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