I prefer to get a USDM H22 but that's too hard to find. I guess I'll go with JDM.
this is what I gathered
1) I can use my stock USDM harness
2) need to use my new USDM Distributor
3) can use my USDM ECU
4) need to swap my fuel rail?
5) What else do I need to take off my USDM and put on JDM? EGT? TPS?
6) Does the header link to the Cat the same?
7) Anything else???
8) Also what places do compression/leakdown/ and oil burning test, and where you can know the actual mileage?
also any sensors that don't come with the engine or come broken.
theres really no sure way of knowing the mileage unless you saw the odometer when the engine was pulled. most jdm engine places gaurantee around 30-40km on their engines no? or is it miles?
You need to use your USDM Fuel Rail, Both ECT's, New Gaskets and O-rings, might wanna get new clutch disc, use your USDM power steering pump, might wanna replace slave cylinder, use your USDM regulator that bolts to your IM (this valve has a tube that runs to your intake). Here is a pic of some of the stuff I used from my USDM motor:
Just had this done to my '95 prelude with VTEC. After reading all kinds of stories of problems that may arise, I spent the $1,000 and had someone put it in (a garage that warrantied their work). In addition, most of the JDM distributors won't warranty the engine unless it's professionally installed (they don't tell you that when you buy it) so I'd suggest you do the same. The place I went had never even heard of JDM but did an excellant job to include putting on a new header and intake and had no problems with the fact that my car is running with no cat. Their price also included the new timing belt and tensioner which is also a requirement if you want to validate the warranty. The best part is that the car was laid up for about a week and not the month or two it would have taken me to get it done.
Yea I was thinking more likely of getting someone professionally install, I just wanted to make sure that I knew all the tidbits to look for. Still trying to figure out if they test for oil burning in these engines. How do you test for something like that anyways. I am gonna probably install other stuff just to make sure it's running perfect, you guys have any ideas on how much the following stuff would cost w/labor
1) replace ALL bushing+4 wheel alignment
2) new fuel pump-just to be sure
3) new main relay- just to make sure
4) new pads/rotors-honda
5) new radiator
6) new exhaust
7) clean out the cat? or new one?
8) new o2 sensor
you will probably want to use your stock injectors .the ones that come on the engine may be the wrong ohm . the older year model injectors are lower resistance (1.5-2.5 ohms) and the newer year model resistance goes up. if you use the wrong ohm injecter it will use excessive fuel,and could damage the injector resister or injector driver
wow that was insightful. I will probably have to get my injectors cleaned then.. are there any other minor differences that may affect it, and would a professional honda mechanic know stuff like the ohm on the injectors difference???. I have been reading , and there seems to be a lot of people with bogging 2nd gear, is that a ECU issue. I figure using my USDM ECU will may things smoother.
Originally posted by red94turbo you will probably want to use your stock injectors .the ones that come on the engine may be the wrong ohm . the older year model injectors are lower resistance (1.5-2.5 ohms) and the newer year model resistance goes up. if you use the wrong ohm injecter it will use excessive fuel,and could damage the injector resister or injector driver
That's not true. All Honda Ecus drive injectors the same way.
It's either 92-96 injectors with an inline resistor pack
or 97-01 injectors without one.
Not sure why you'd want to do all that to your car just to be "sure". You'll know when the brakes need to be replaced and they're not difficult at all when you compare it to swapping out an engine. Depending on where you're from, get rid of the cat...wesome power gains. Fuel pump isn't difficult wither once you get to it and it's just taking the back seat out that's a pain. The main relay is fine unless otherwise diagnosed. Radiators shouldn't need replacement unless it's leaking or you need to cool things off a little better because of a big-ass intercooler getting in the way. Exhaust is always a good step in the right direction but you're doing a H22A1 to a H22A swap, I'm wondering why that hasn't been done already. And believe me, having the JDM is worth every penny. Mine is NA with an intake, header, exhaust, racing clutch and flywheel and it's almost amazingly fast. My previous car was an RSX-S with all the same done to it and the prelude can walk all over it... not ever close. As far as oil burning; all H22's burn oil. There's a design flaw in the PCV that tends to put oil into the intake along with gases. It's no big deal... yo just need to keep an eye on it. What's important is getting the numbers from a compression check. Stock it should be around the 220 range. After about 35,000 miles you can expect it to be around 185. I checked out my injectors and they're from my USDM, the JDM's didn't work right. Take it for what it's worth.
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