i have the a 95 h22a motor i have headers full exhaust system with a injen cold air intake i would like to say i'm near 170whp right now i would like to get 200whp
Last edited by 93h22civic; 04-30-2011 at 12:11 AM.
id say your headed in the right direction with the intake and exhaust. ive read numberus threads on people trying to gain hp. i think your next approach should be cams, IM, and a TB. just a suggestion.
best of luckkk
yes 200hp and 161tq i'm looking to get 200whp from bolt ons i was told right now my car is near the 170whp mark
you know, something ive been thinking about recently...
what if you got stiffer engine mounts? i know couple of company's who make a set.
innovative mounts and drop mounts.
my thought was that your softer stock engine mounts absorb some of the torque from the engine when you get on it. maybe if you got stiffer mounts it would transfer some of the lost torque into your wheels? which in turn give you more umph towards to get go...
idk, it was just and idea. maybe somebody can confirm this?...
or just tell me that im a ****ing idiot, either or...
id say your headed in the right direction with the intake and exhaust. ive read numberus threads on people trying to gain hp. i think your next approach should be cams, IM, and a TB. just a suggestion.
best of luckkk
right now i have a stock jdm h22a swap in my 93 civic coupe with hasport motor mounts with a ExplicitSpeedPerformance Traction bar inJen cold air intake with headers in catback Apexi N1 exhaust system so i just wanna get around 200whp on bolt ons my pockets are not very deep so dont say u need this 1000 ITB or something ive never gotten a tune on a dyno eather would a good dyno tune boost up my whp?
i can care less about over all HP i'm looking for that WHP lol trying to make a nice street car with normal pockets not deep ones help me out guys rember it's in a civic not prelude not very big engine bay
your civic engine bay has more room then your preludes. lol. try a skunk2 intake mani. however i herd you ave to have a tune afterwards. skunk2 intake mani is only 300 btw. BUT a skunk2 intake mani dosent have a spot for an egr or alot of your vacuum spots. theres this site that sells hollowed out stock IM for h series. produces the same hp (whp) numbers but still keeping your stock ports and plugs.
I'd get the Euro R over the S2, go to roskoracing.com and he'll set you up with one that is ready to bolt up. With a new IM, TB, good header which I have a feeling you have something dinky cause you didn't mention the name, better exhaust (Apexi N1 has extra bends for the look cool angle muffler, not good) and a tune you should be able to get 200whp. Ditching the cat and EGR should help too if you live somewhere that doesn't test emissions.
Just also noticed other posts above about modified stock IM, Euro R still out performs that as well.
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New Formula Red 93 BB2: JDM OBD1 H22a/T2W4 Accord Euro R transmission
i think you should get a hondata ecu, and then get it tuned. i figured that an aftermarket intake manifold wouldn't make a difference since your computer is only allowing so much air and fuel into the engine. just my opinion..
you could try getting bigger fuel injectors AFTER you get an ecu, along with an intake manifold and maybe the motor mounts (haven't really thought about mounts like that) and also, if you are running a catalytic converter on your exhaust, that takes anywhere from 5-15 hp right off the bat (so i've heard). bigger throttle body would be straight as well.. and also, i've heard throttle body spacers add hp??? not sure just heard stuff like that. aem v2 intake adds hp (again, so i've heard).
^I already gave him the info he needs, bigger injectors will do nothing unless the displacement has been increased or the rate of airflow has had a serious increase. Your guess at the cat is seriously off, you gain from ditching it but it all depends on the header.
Talking hp numbers is just silly as the very thing that reads it can be totally biased as it's a tuning tool and they all read different.
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New Formula Red 93 BB2: JDM OBD1 H22a/T2W4 Accord Euro R transmission
like i said, i was just giving my ".02". and i don't understand what you meant by "my guess at the cat is seriously off"? i have heard of people making gains just by taking it off with a STOCK header. i was thinking of turbo when i was talking about injectors so yeah i was wrong about that. i was pretty much brainstorming while typing at the same time.
i got a 92 prelude h23a1 since u guys are all talking about modifaction hop u guys can help me im trying to get more performance out of my stock h23a1 with 180,000 i dont have alot of cash no turbo yet i am goin to be changing the valve guid seals so if theres any modification i can do while thats stuff is off plzz give me specific instructions on parts like brand name and what it is thanks ans f so possiable links
My setup: H22A, w/ CAI, Greddy Header & Exhaust. AEM cam gears & power pulleys, tuned on VAFC, putting down 182hp on a hot/humid day at the wheels.
That being said: you need a tuning system to make sure you're getting the most out of your mods. Whether a piggy-back (VAFC, etc), or an EMS (hondata, etc) you really need to be able to tune your setup. This tuning is done on a dyno...thats what gives the feedback to need to get the most out of your car. You can say "I want 200hp out of my car", but a butt-dyno aint gonna help. Get it tunable, get it tuned...thats why they call us "tuners".
My next plans: port/polish head with a "stage2" set of cams new valve springs and retainers. As stated above, this is just my $0.02 and take it for what its worth, but I figured I'd give you a "this is what works for me" view of it. I'm not a guy that builds frankenstien motors on the weekend, I can't tell you what the valve clearances are without looking them up, but I know that there are a lot of things you can put your money into and not get out what you thought you would. There are many people on here that know much more than I do, but I've been "tuning" for 10+ years now on preludes, so I've seen a lot.
^Never tested mine but I'm more modded than you which is why I was giving my advice since I figured on most dyno's I could probably put down 200whp. Seeing your set up makes me pretty confident that I could break 200whp, but will probably never dyno the car as the person who is a local Hondata tuner does very good on the street, costs a lot less than dyno time too.
SUPER healthy JDM H22a (like new compression #'s)
Hytech rep header
no cat
no EGR
2.5" exhaust
Euro R IM
Hondata IM gasket
SRI
68mm TB
S300
No balance shafts
8lb flywheel
Euro R LSD transmission
It's still pretty lightly modified IMO, maybe one day I'll decide to do internal work but not in any rush.
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New Formula Red 93 BB2: JDM OBD1 H22a/T2W4 Accord Euro R transmission
^Never tested mine but I'm more modded than you which is why I was giving my advice since I figured on most dyno's I could probably put down 200whp. Seeing your set up makes me pretty confident that I could break 200whp, but will probably never dyno the car as the person who is a local Hondata tuner does very good on the street, costs a lot less than dyno time too.
SUPER healthy JDM H22a (like new compression #'s)
Hytech rep header
no cat
no EGR
2.5" exhaust
Euro R IM
Hondata IM gasket
SRI
68mm TB
S300
No balance shafts
8lb flywheel
Euro R LSD transmission
It's still pretty lightly modified IMO, maybe one day I'll decide to do internal work but not in any rush.
Yeah, according to everything I've seen you'd be over 200hp on most dynos, but I've also seen an H23 with only I/H/E throw down a 162hp on a mild day. So, thats why a say dyno it, you might even be pleasantly surprised!
Yeah just the only dyno in town is far and unless they have any sort of dyno days where its cheap or free I doubt I'll ever dyno the car. But for the OP, try something like my setup, I enjoy it quite a bit but I feel the trans is making the largest difference, short gears ftw.
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New Formula Red 93 BB2: JDM OBD1 H22a/T2W4 Accord Euro R transmission
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