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Old 11-06-2001, 07:53 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Vtec problem!!!! JDM motor swap......Please help....

That my Vtec is working...I ride in my friends Si, and my other friends ls/vtec all the time...Their Vtec is loud! I don't hear mine. I know the solenoids can go bad, but it worked before I adjusted my valves. Now I never hear it AT all. Before my valves were adjusted they were Very loose. Vtec was REALLY loud...and I could feel it. Now I don't I would think that I would hear it even better since I have Type S cams.
Thanks,
Josh
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Old 11-06-2001, 07:57 PM   #2 (permalink)
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well... you closed the valve lash alittle when you adjusted them.. so to me it makes sense. they arent open as much, less noise. Are you still pulling fine?
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Old 11-06-2001, 08:07 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Hey,
Hee I knew that part, I had them adjusted tight. I am preparing for the turbo. But there is NO pull. It kind struggles at 7000 it feels like...
Josh
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Old 11-07-2001, 06:06 AM   #4 (permalink)
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There's definitely something wrong. Preludes have a very pronounced vtec crossover and you should be able to hear and feel the difference. There are some guys who know their stuff on here about this kind of thing. So be patient and they will help you trouble shoot it.
Good luck,
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Old 11-07-2001, 08:51 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Did you install aftermarket headers as well when swapping in the motor?
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Old 11-07-2001, 09:12 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Yeah, I put on a greddy header. But I feel no extra power at 5500, it more feels like it going to explode.
Josh
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Old 11-07-2001, 09:52 AM   #7 (permalink)
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too tight of a valve lash adjustment will hold the valves off the seats when the motor is warmed up. its important to stay within spec. i'd go in and check the lash once more and make sure the minimum spec feeler guage slides in...

closing up loose valve lash shouldn't quiet up the vtec engagement. it'll quiet up the tapping. with loose valve lash the valves open up late, not enough a/f mixture is getting in, or not enough exhaust is getting out.

with what you're saying i'd be thinking the valve lash isn't set correctly. remember there is a +1/-1 margin for error with valve adjustments. of course i dont want to say its definitely the valves since i cannot see your car. but from what you say, the adjustment is what has changed the demeanor of the motor. so double up on your valve job.

v
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Old 11-07-2001, 10:01 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I am pretty sure it isn't the valves. PYR a very reputable race shop did the valve adjustment. I am friends with them and I just had them do it while I was down there.
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Old 11-07-2001, 12:04 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by LudeTec
I am pretty sure it isn't the valves. PYR a very reputable race shop did the valve adjustment. I am friends with them and I just had them do it while I was down there.
Josh
so why do you not ask THEM why your car is sluggish? they have first hand sight and experience with your setup. i know you did the swap but right now they are the ones you trust, so...
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Old 11-07-2001, 02:11 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I can't tell by what you wrote, but it sounds as if you might have just gotten your Type-S cams installed as well as having the valve adjustment done. If you did, you are supposed to SLOWLY break in the cams for at least 500 miles so the cam lobes set properly.

Just a thought.

Mark
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Old 11-07-2001, 04:38 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Hey,
I know I broke it in 600 miles before doin anything.
Josh
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Old 11-08-2001, 11:43 PM   #12 (permalink)
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sigh... ill take this opportunity to ask the million dollar question again... vtec... is working... but how come my redline is at 6400, i cant go past it, it cuts off, when it should cut off at 7700?

i bought an oil pressure gauge the other day but have yet to test it, ill do that when i get a chance, thats the only thing i can think of... just asking for thoughts once again if you all have any.... thanks.
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Old 11-09-2001, 01:01 AM   #13 (permalink)
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you should be happy you have a lower redline, it'll keep your motor healthier by not letting it run so wild up top
it's a blessing in disguise you're engine will last longer and fell tighter when ludes of the same mileage will be rattling apart
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Old 11-09-2001, 01:11 AM   #14 (permalink)
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true true... but then that defeats the whole purpose of having VTEC... thats when the vtec does its work, in those higher RPMs.
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Old 11-09-2001, 06:26 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by hondaplex
true true... but then that defeats the whole purpose of having VTEC... thats when the vtec does its work, in those higher RPMs.
Hondaplex, you quite simply have a:
1) bad solenoid
or...
2) low oil pressure
or...
3) MISSING OIL GALLEY
or...
4) bad wiring
or...
5) bad ECU

In that order. Start at the top and work your way down.
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Old 11-09-2001, 06:27 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by 93si4ws

so why do you not ask THEM why your car is sluggish? they have first hand sight and experience with your setup. i know you did the swap but right now they are the ones you trust, so...
Amen. If you trust them so much, THEY should be troubleshooting it for you. If you don't want advice from the board, don't ask for it. PRIMARY SUSPECT is the valve adjustment.

Do you hear any valve tick at idle? If not, you valves are too tight!!!
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Old 11-09-2001, 08:46 AM   #17 (permalink)
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God WTF I was just saying that they did it I never once said I trusted them. Jesus christ, I just need help, not a scolding. Why would tight valves cause vtec to not engage? I know it would limit air flow, but vtec would still engage. Also I think that the noise I heard befroe may have just been my dual stage manifold opening, It would make since because my valaves where VERY loose.
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Old 11-09-2001, 01:15 PM   #18 (permalink)
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if valves are too tight...worse if too tight when cold...the valves might not completely close and pressure will seap out. if you have a bent valve that will yeild similar results. if valves are slightly open, on the power stroke air/fuel is going through the valve openings, power loss and possible backfiring.
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Old 11-09-2001, 08:29 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by hondaplex
sigh... ill take this opportunity to ask the million dollar question again... vtec... is working... but how come my redline is at 6400, i cant go past it, it cuts off, when it should cut off at 7700?

i bought an oil pressure gauge the other day but have yet to test it, ill do that when i get a chance, thats the only thing i can think of... just asking for thoughts once again if you all have any.... thanks.
'

do you have a vtec controler, i had a VAFC hooked up to my h22 and the vtec came in fine but it was limited at 6500. i messed with the wiring and everything and nuthing helped. i unhooked the vtec part of the VAFC and now it works fine. i swaped Vafc's with a friend and mine worked fine in his car but his caused the same problem with my car
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Old 11-13-2001, 02:18 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Hmmm that is interesting... so youre saying you cannot have a VTEC controller controlling your vtec at all in your car? either way.. what did you do now? i know thats not my problem because i have completely disconnected my VAFC for now to diagnose the problem so i know for sure it wont be interfering with anything.. but after what you just said... maybe i should relook at my wiring along with checking the oil pressure.

but thats not normal in your car, you must have just had it wired wrong in your car.. why would it work in his car but not yours, there has to be a solution.

Quote:
Originally posted by Wadzii22
'

do you have a vtec controler, i had a VAFC hooked up to my h22 and the vtec came in fine but it was limited at 6500. i messed with the wiring and everything and nuthing helped. i unhooked the vtec part of the VAFC and now it works fine. i swaped Vafc's with a friend and mine worked fine in his car but his caused the same problem with my car
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