yeah there is no cam on it. i had a timing belt break and it bent the valves in 1 and 4. i got another head for cheap but wasn't sure on its condition so i bolted it up with no cam on it and put 100psi in each cylinder, but every cylinder had a valve leak on the exhaust or intake side.
i figured 100psi would hold being that a good compression test is around 130 across the motor. so yeah, i guess those valves on that head are shot too.
i was just trying to get it running quickly without having to buy the valve compressor and angle cutting tool required to do the valve job
anyone here rebuilt a head, and have some tips?
i've seen a valve compressor that bolts to the head and you just spin down a bolt to compress the spring, and also the big C-clamp one. either one easier than the other?
how would i diagnose if its the actual valve or just the valve seal?
there is no visible damage on any of the valves.
even the valves of the orignal head barely had any sign of contact except for a spot on the piston
A lot of people here have been great in past for posting the fix of the problem once they found it.
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