*UPDATE* She cranks but doesnt start! NOT at all!!!
92 Honda Prelude S
F22b
-Battery is not new but it aint old. Battery is in good condition and holds a good amount of volts (had battery checked at Autozone today).
-NEW Alternator installed today.
She cranks but she just wont start/turnover.
Are there any tricks to see if the fuel pump is working??? (I have bad ears and I cant seem to hear it priming when the key is turned to the ON position!...I dont have my hearing aids today cuz my dog ate em! Ha Ha Ha ) -Should I disconnect the direct(hose directly from fuel pump) line to the fuel filter and see if gasoline comes out when I crank the car?
Where do I start to figure out my problem???
Any answers and even questions will help?
Thank You in advance!!!
First. You can start figuring your problem out by using the search function this site provides.
Second. Search for fixing a main relay. You may need to re-solder a few joints.
Third. Yes there is a trick. Get someone else to get into your back seat or trunk to listen to the fuel pump prime...or just disconnect the line from the rail and see if gas squirts.
or turn off all fans and car audio, close the door, turn the key into position II ready for ignition, and listen .. while all your dash lights go on and off (and 4ws ecu clicks if you have one) you'll hear a loud click .. this is your ignition really, as stated before do a search.
My question though, when did this start ? did you do any work? change engines?
If so, check your ground to the left of your thermostat where it bolts to the block.
Would I be able to see if the relay is faulty just by looking at it? Ive looked at a thread about soldering a main relay but didnt see a difference in a good or bad one.
This started randomly(2 weeks ago..cuz now my car wont start so it just sits there), but recently my timing was a lil off and I fixed that. Before that, I changed my Dizzy cap and rotor. I checked (randomly) spark plug 1 and the tip was white(im running rich). Although NO engine swaps have been done recently.
A better way of checking the fuel pump is using a multimeter (go to autozone if you don't have one) and check for +12v going to fuel pump... main relay is basically the # 1 prob. other than a bad ground.
A better way of checking the fuel pump is using a multimeter (go to autozone if you don't have one) and check for +12v going to fuel pump... main relay is basically the # 1 prob. other than a bad ground.
Even if you check it with a multimeter it could still be bad. The pump could be getting power but not functioning.
Quote:
Originally Posted by iidieiv619
I just chose to replace the spark plugs. HOWEVER the car remains unable to start.
Could it be:
-Ignition?
-Distributor?
You've checked you're getting spark right? What else do you need? Fuel and air right? It seems like you keep avoiding to check if you're getting fuel.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonik_Fury
whatever essay I just watched the new Fast and Furious so I know what I'm talking about.
Before changing the spark plugs I checked for a spark in ALL plugs and I noticed NONE.
( way i did that was taking the plug out the block, keeping it connected to the wire and touching the tip of the plug(for ground) to the block and my brother cranked the car and still no spark).
check that your resistor box (next to the clutch master cylinder) is plugged in
then check to make sure your coil is plugged in (to the 4 wire harness and to the distributor)
Before changing the spark plugs I checked for a spark in ALL plugs and I noticed NONE.
( way i did that was taking the plug out the block, keeping it connected to the wire and touching the tip of the plug(for ground) to the block and my brother cranked the car and still no spark).
AND yes... i still have to check fuel.
So you weren't seeing any spark but chose to replace the spark plugs anyways?
Check your igniter. I had the same problem when some mechanic left the ignition on.
Being the professional that he is, he couldn't figure the problem out...
So I did a bit of fault-finding and found the igniter had burned out.
I replaced it and the problem was solved.
Well here it is:
-Tested Ignition Coil and it read fine. Resistance was in range.
-Bought REFURB. Distributor with IGNITOR module
-Added more ground through out engine
-NEW alternator (stated previously)
-Charged battery...13v (stated previously)
-NEW NGK spark plugs (stated previously)
-Almost brand new spark plug WIRES (from earlier this yr. from swap)
-ALL corrosion inspected and cleaned
-Ground to Thermostat housing was inspected and cleaned
-ALL fuses are checked and in order
-Ground checked throughout and read fine.
We also tried jumping the car, but that didnt work.
Main relay was pulled and checked. Although I noticed two circuits had a ring around them ...idk if they were cracks but I am still unsure.
I have one question on the side-> Does the Main Relay cover ignition because I know it covers fuel (through the fuel pump), and I know I am getting fuel cuz the plugs smell like fuel and I have pressure in the gas tank after releasing pressure from taking the cap off???
This is why the Main Relay was ignored cuz im getting fuel BUT NO SPARK!
I just bought a USED Main Relay from a local Prelude owner.
When installed I noticed that NUMBER 4 FUSE (BACK UP 10A) SOON BUSTED!!!
(This fuse is located in the fuse box under the dash.)
THERE IS A SHORT SOMEWHERE BUT IDK WHERE????
WHERE DO I START???
-them damn ciruit diagrams are so confusing!!! Haha
That 10A fuse either provides power to the main relay or to the fuel pump. All I know is that the fuel pump won't work without it
I'd be wary of that used main relay if it blew right after you installed it (assuming you didn't do anything wrong during the install). Whatever you do, do NOT replace the fuse with one rated for more amps
How about the Ignition Switch???
The Num. 4 Back Up fuse 10a busts as soon as I turn the ignition to ON.
Also a part of the Ignition Switch wire was partly split. Copper wire was visible.
It came out to be the ECU
(Most likely resulted from jumping the car, when my alternator was bad and battery was dead...the jump fried the ECU!)
It caused fuses to blow. No spark from plugs. No fuel.
I bought another one from a junkyard, plugged it in and it fired up just right!!! Oh do I miss my car!!!
-I lost a lot of money trying to solve this problem...but...hey... I got NEW parts!
I would have never guessed it was the ecu based on the original post, but apparently they do go bad (moreso on the newer cars than these older ones...)
I've been following this thread cause I have the exact same car/engine and am currently dealing with exactly the same problem. The difference being that I never jump started it. Fuel pump is fine. I pulled the ignitor (ie: Ignition module) and took it to Autozone. Their tester showed it as bad. Bought a new one for $50 and it still won't start. I'm going to take the ignitor back and have them test it also just to make sure I didn't get a DOA. Ignition coil was very close to spec according to the Helm's manual so I think it's ok. I'm out of ideas and about to drag the car to a shop.
Question: What did you pay for the ECU from the junkyard? What do they typically cost for new vs refurb vs junkyard ones?
Also: The ignitor was bad... could it's failure have caused another part to fail? Or could another part have caused the ignitor to fail?
I got a 5th gen prelude.
Same problem...no spark.. i've changed icm, igniton coil etc and i'm now left thinking it's the ecu.
my ecu code is: 37820-p5m-g11 (if that means anything to ayone)
i so far cannot find the same ecu to replace mine with. does anyone know if any other ecus will work?
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