I've just about decided to not do an engine swap on my lude. I think I'm just gonna rebuild the engine, and get a turbo. Which is the best one to get? I don't want one that'll get me killed, by the way, I just want to beat some mustangs.. I'm also gonna do some internals, like a set of cams, along with an I/H/E. So give me some info guys. I'd appreciate it.
well you could go custom turbo and get your local shop to frabricate a kit for you, that way you could choose the exact name brands you want. Or your could order a turbo kit such as a Drag 3 turbo kit which is somewhat popular. thats a good way to start. I could go so in depth about turbos so I'll just get you started . Either way you are going to spend at least $2500 for a decent set-up. Tuning it is also going to run some money. you cant forget the little stuff like fuel and ignition too.
by the way, im not trying to make you look dumb, but you cant have a header and a turbo. You have to buy a turbo manifold (about $600 for a good one) in place fof your exhaust manifold.
Im sure other people here will get more in depth for ya if you want. just ask
Well, I feel really stupid. I guess that I just showed everyone here that I'm not completely brilliant when it comes to cars. I know enough to get by, but for other stuff, I count on the board or my b/f. Thanks for the bit of info, btw. I'm open to any and all suggestions and corrections.
Originally posted by LadypreludeSI Well, I feel really stupid. I guess that I just showed everyone here that I'm not completely brilliant when it comes to cars. I know enough to get by, but for other stuff, I count on the board or my b/f. Thanks for the bit of info, btw. I'm open to any and all suggestions and corrections.
Oh well you're learning. At least you aren't getting defensive
I agree that a custom setup will be best, but it will take research, and patience. I am not sure, but it seems like you want minimal headaches, so a pre-fabbed kit may work for you as well.
I assume you have a H23 motor, correct? F-Max and DRAG have kits for us, and it's debatable which is better. ALthough they are both considered "bolt on", they will require some hacking and extra pieces. Try a search on www.google.com. Also, there are some very knowledgeable guys on the Forced Induction forum, so search around there also.
It is a great idea to beef up the internals, especially if you are gaining mileage.
Good luck, and keep asking questions
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1994 Prelude Si (Sitting in Garage)
2004 WRX Wagon (Pounding the snow)
I've been thinking about this for a while...the H23s are a bigger engine than the H22s...so shouldn't an H23 turbo produce more power than an H22 turbo?
Originally posted by jackal9220 I've been thinking about this for a while...the H23s are a bigger engine than the H22s...so shouldn't an H23 turbo produce more power than an H22 turbo?
The displacement advantage is only .1 liter, so it's not that big of a difference.
Some say that the H22 is better because it has piston oil squirters to cool things down, and that the head is better. It also has VTEC, so that's another plus. I've read that the H22 crank is stronger.
But on the other hand, a lot of the big dog VTEC motors have VTEC disengaged for some reason. ANd all H23s are closed deck, which is better. I think only the newer H22 is open deck, but I'm not sure.
Also, I think that it all depends on how well that particular motor is built, so It's a toss up.
Try doing a search on this subject. It has been debated awhile back.
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1994 Prelude Si (Sitting in Garage)
2004 WRX Wagon (Pounding the snow)
I Heard you are going to build an H23 Well I have a FULLY BUILT already broken in H23 it has Iron sleaves and bored to a 2.4 JE 9:1 pisten's cower rod's port and polish 5angle valve on the intake and 3 angle on the exhast side standless steal valve's with a swirl polished on the intake side it's blanced E mail me if you have any questions at BoostedH24lude@aol.com
Originally posted by SiR-P12eLude what do you mean by open and close decks...???
Open Deck
Closed deck
Do you see around the cylinder? In the S2000 motor, it is opened deck which means there is a gap around the cylinder. THis makes it prone to flexing and can cause breakage. I don't know too much on it, but I know it isn't as strong
In the WRX motor (bottom) it is closed, so it seems more "solid".
They make kits that allow you to put a block guard on there, which simulates a closed deck, and allows coolant to run through. But since you have a closed deck, you won't need one.
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1994 Prelude Si (Sitting in Garage)
2004 WRX Wagon (Pounding the snow)
OK, now I'm really confused. I understand about the bolt-on and all that, but as far as open and closed decks, you guys lost me. All I know is that I've got an H23 in my car with 200+K, and I want to rebuild it, and make it as fast as I can with as little headache as possible. My b/f knows some asian guys who do this **** all the time, and have a few "secret weapon" civics to their credit. They're willing to do the work for me, so that's not a prob. I'd be perfectly happy to have the car sitting at around 250 hp. That's enough for me at this point in time. I want it to be fast, but not so fast that I can't control it when I've got my kids with me. I know the ball-park prices for the turbos, and I know that I'm gonna spend some money getting all this done. I do have one question. Does anyone know how much torque the car would have at that hp? When I get it all done, Im gonna have it dynoed, but I'm just curious. One of the best things about the lude is the torque. Anyone agree?
Most of the "kits" will allow 250hp, with proper tuning, and a well built motor. Just research, research, research. ""bolt on turbo" and "headaches" are synonymous, so get used to it.
You fit KIDS in your lude? I have a 4 year old, and she's almost too big for it.
As far as torque, look at the dynos on hp.com for some references.
Good luck
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1994 Prelude Si (Sitting in Garage)
2004 WRX Wagon (Pounding the snow)
Me personnally I went with the fmax kit with a hybrid turbo. To reduce headaches get everything you need at once because you will reget it in the long run. With that many miles I would jus buy a used set of stock cams with low milage, and get pistons and rods, like he said before you don't need a header cause the kit comes with an manifold you will need a exhaust place to make a downpipe. When first get it down get to know your car all over again, it is not going to be the same car, you are going to have to feel it out and learn to understand all of your gauges. Turbo is a whole nother level and the greatest thing in the world, so have tons of fun as i did when I first got mine. And just a personnal recomdation DON'T use delta gate waistegate they suck so bad and caused my first engine go. I only use and recommend Tial 35mm. If you have any other questions just ask better here than when your engine is f*cked.
Originally posted by BoostedH24 I Heard you are going to build an H23 Well I have a FULLY BUILT already broken in H23 it has Iron sleaves and bored to a 2.4 JE 9:1 pisten's cower rod's port and polish 5angle valve on the intake and 3 angle on the exhast side standless steal valve's with a swirl polished on the intake side it's blanced E mail me if you have any questions at BoostedH24lude@aol.com
What are you runnin 1/4? What are you puttin to the wheels?
the motor has never been boosted or spray'ed on sooo its just running N/A there isn't much power cuz of the low compression but it's ready for a turbo or a big shot of nitrous
Originally posted by LadypreludeSI One of the best things about the lude is the torque. Anyone agree?
wow.... this chick has done her homework. One of the reasons the H23 is better for turbocharging is our torque curve on the dyno. We make more torque sooner than any H22. This is why most turbo H23's win over turbo H22's highway or 1/4 mile. just a little something that was discussed at the shop tonight
But on the other hand, a lot of the big dog VTEC motors have VTEC disengaged for some reason.
That is because there is a lot of valve overlap associated with the vtec operation. Valve overlap along with forced induction is just not as efficient because the air forced into the cylinder can be pushed right back out.
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I'm also gonna do some internals, like a set of cams, along with an I/H/E. So give me some info guys. I'd appreciate it.
. Either way you are going to spend at least $2500 for a decent set-up. Tuning it is also going to run some money. you cant forget the little stuff like fuel and ignition too.
I understand about the bolt-on and all that, but as far as open and closed decks, you guys lost me. All I know is that I've got an H23 in my car with 200+K, and I want to rebuild it, and make it as fast as I can with as little headache as possible. My b/f knows some asian guys who do this **** all the time, and have a few "secret weapon" civics to their credit. They're willing to do the work for me, so that's not a prob. I'd be perfectly happy to have the car sitting at around 250 hp. That's enough for me at this point in time. I want it to be fast, but not so fast that I can't control it when I've got my kids with me. I know the ball-park prices for the turbos, and I know that I'm gonna spend some money getting all this done. I do have one question. Does anyone know how much torque the car would have at that hp? When I get it all done, Im gonna have it dynoed, but I'm just curious. One of the best things about the lude is the torque. Anyone agree?
look at the dynos on hp.com for some references.
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