I just got through changing my timing belt, balancer belt, water pump. The orig belt snapped on me last week, but I was going fairly slow and hoped there wasn't big damage to the valves.
Anyways, all together now, won't start. Cranks, but sounds like it is out of time. I followed the Helms instructions pretty close, is there any differences if the belt has blown (ie not a regular change)? Maybe a different alignment of the cams?
Also if I did mess up my valves, would it cause these symptoms? I assumed it would start and maybe just run bad or rough.
well you set everything to TDC before you put on the timing belt so if you did that is should be fine. you put the punches in the cam shaft and pins in the balancer shafts(those wouldnt have anything to do with the car not starting though), and obviously the crank at tdc.
93 Lude, 2.3. It has the manual tensioner in it. The belts seemed to go on right, but the timing belt was tight and tough to get on. The tensioners didn't move much for either.
Originally posted by pmartino 93 Lude, 2.3. It has the manual tensioner in it. The belts seemed to go on right, but the timing belt was tight and tough to get on. The tensioners didn't move much for either.
I remember when I did mine that the belt seemed to be loser feeling then it should have between the cam gears but after I ran the car and took off the valve cover to check it again. It was back to being nice and tight.
yeah when i did my h23 belt, it was kind of difficult to get on. some times it felt a little too loose on there, and sometimes i thought it would snap again.
i know that the flywheel has two white marks, one for a timing gun and one for the belt which confused me. there is a possibility that you got the white marks confused
ir perhaps your valves are screwed like what happened to me
__________________
1992 Prelude SI Type SH EBP VTEC BB1 SiR H23 DOHC 4th gen Type-R BB4 Milano Nordic Mist F22 JDM-spec 5th gen Type-S 4WS H22 EDM Mugen edition
Sounds like the valves to me, this happened on my old Si. I replaced the t-belt, water pump, tensioner hoping that the valves were OK after the belt snapped. The car cranked twice and started but it was a REALLY, REALLY rough idle. I removed the head and took it to the shop, end story: 6 bent valves. Cost $225 for the shop to replace the valves and resurface the head and a new gasket set. Reinstalled everything ran great. Took about a week for everthing, mostly b/c I had to wait on the shop. Good luck
__________________
*SONIK*
-95 VTEC
*Short Ram Intake*Greddy SS Header*"Hi-Flo Cat"*Thermal R&D Classic catback*AEM Tru Power Pullies*Front & Rear strut bars*H&R Sport Springs*KYB AGX Shocks*Exedy Racing Clutch*Fidanza Flywheel*ES MM Inserts*..working on it.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.