I've been getting weird bogging at all rpms. A while a go I installed Magnecore wires because my OEM one's are really bad and cause missfires. Now I've come to think that my Magnecore's might be bad because I could not link a problem to anything else. When I accelerate lightly or heavy the power would suddently cut out and then kick back in and so on, when the car is fully warmed up. Are the wires bad, because I could not notice any hesitation while reving the engine, it goes pretty smooth. Sometimes I notice the light inside the car slightly dims but never does when just reving the engine or idling. I've checked the alternator and its putting out a steady 14 volts at all rpms. Would anyone want to sell their OEM wires if you have them laying around so I can try them to see if it's my wires?
I have a brand new set of stock wires if you want them. Let me know what you can afford and I'll sell them to you.
Have you changed your spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor recently. Hopefully you did that while you were changing the wires because it is basic maintenance.
I had some bogging issues with my previous 93 Si. The car performed like crap and would stall out on me every so often. When it stalled it was hard to get it started again and I couldn't figure out what the problem was.
I brought it home and my dad and I were looking around for the problem and I asked my dad to check the cap and rotor. My dad looked at them while I was in the house and when I came out, he said, "they look good son."
I ended up taking it to Honda and they told me that my rotor had cracked into two pieces inside the cap. Needless to say, I paid a lot of money to have Honda diagnose the problem and change that stuff. I was really pissed at pops also.
ive got the same problem with my 95 vtec lude...the power keeps on cutting out and it can feel like **** to drive.....but on a few rare days it drives like a beast......but anyway thats two of us in the same boat.
The wierdest part is that it all started when I installed DC header. I also used a deremel tool to get rid of all the carbon buildup from the head. After the car warmed up, I was like what is going on now?! Maybe the headers amplified of what was already there or maybe not. I'm thinking of making an oppointment with Honda and have them diagnose the problem, It only costs $50.
I really did not think that wires would cause the power to cut out like that. Since I do have a loud exhaust I would hear any missfires or anything out of the ordinary as I did when I had my old wires.
I have changed the cap. and rotor and even tried a different distributor because my dad has the same year prelude but si with 60,000 ml.
Would a timing belt skipping a tooth cause something like this?
By the way, when I took out the spark plug from the cylinder closest to distr. it did not look like the rest of them. It had a very white tip that was like covered in some white send particles which were stuck to the tip. The ceremic part had carbon on it and all the others did not.
Aaaah!! I was going to assume your problem was fuel-related, as I had the same symptom a few years back. I made the mistake of using an aftermarket in-tank fuel pump though, mainly because I didn't feel like forking out the money for the Honda part. Now I've come to appreciate the Honda pump!
Have you replaced your fuel filter recently? Take yours out and shake the fuel out onto a light-colored surface. Look for discoloration and flakes in the fuel.
While the fuel filter is out, Have someone hold the fuel line toward the ground and turn the ignition switch on and off a few times. This "primes" the pump and should dump quite a large amount of fuel out of the open line. This should expel any particles which were once trapped before the filter.
If you still have problems, you may want to remove and inspect your injectors, fuel pump, and replace the sock on the pump. Go to a dealership and ask a mechanic to borrow his fuel pressure gauge. It will screw into the test port on the fuel rail. Run the gauge out of the top of the hood and tape it to the wiper arm so that you can read the gauge while driving. You should be reading about 25PSI under vacuum, 35PSI at WOT.
Originally posted by Lude_conduct Aaaah!! I was going to assume your problem was fuel-related, as I had the same symptom a few years back. I made the mistake of using an aftermarket in-tank fuel pump though, mainly because I didn't feel like forking out the money for the Honda part. Now I've come to appreciate the Honda pump!
Have you replaced your fuel filter recently? Take yours out and shake the fuel out onto a light-colored surface. Look for discoloration and flakes in the fuel.
While the fuel filter is out, Have someone hold the fuel line toward the ground and turn the ignition switch on and off a few times. This "primes" the pump and should dump quite a large amount of fuel out of the open line. This should expel any particles which were once trapped before the filter.
If you still have problems, you may want to remove and inspect your injectors, fuel pump, and replace the sock on the pump. Go to a dealership and ask a mechanic to borrow his fuel pressure gauge. It will screw into the test port on the fuel rail. Run the gauge out of the top of the hood and tape it to the wiper arm so that you can read the gauge while driving. You should be reading about 25PSI under vacuum, 35PSI at WOT.
The fuel filter was replaced about 8,000ml ago. I took out the whole fuel rail with injectors and inspected each of them. They looked good no send or anything was in them where the net thingy is in them. I swapped the pressumed bad injector with the one all the way to the right. I will see how the spark plug will like after some driving. While the car was running I wanted to see if they were ticking and they all did.
Is it possible for injector relay to go bad? How do I check if the fule pump is bad?
I was checking the wires in the darkeness while the engine was running and then reved it, one of the plug wires was arching. There was arching across the wire. Is this normal or is this wire no good?
Originally posted by ME No I don't think that is normal. Do you have the stock wire that you can swap in to see if the problem goes away?
No, I threw the old wires away. Has anyone tried this on their car? Because I also tried it on my dads '94 si with 60,000 ml and it also has some arching but not as bad as one of my wires.
I also inspected the spark plug where I moved the supposdly bad injector and it started to show signs of lean condition. I think I have a bad injector. I've never heard of injector going bad on a honda, anyways I will be looking to buy a new injector and see if this will solve the bogging problem.
ME:
Since you have Magnecores, will you try this when its dark at night and see if you get any arching.
Last edited by vtecprelude; 03-08-2002 at 09:22 PM.
Originally posted by Lude_conduct Aaaah!! I was going to assume your problem was fuel-related, as I had the same symptom a few years back. I made the mistake of using an aftermarket in-tank fuel pump though, mainly because I didn't feel like forking out the money for the Honda part. Now I've come to appreciate the Honda pump!
Have you replaced your fuel filter recently? Take yours out and shake the fuel out onto a light-colored surface. Look for discoloration and flakes in the fuel.
While the fuel filter is out, Have someone hold the fuel line toward the ground and turn the ignition switch on and off a few times. This "primes" the pump and should dump quite a large amount of fuel out of the open line. This should expel any particles which were once trapped before the filter.
If you still have problems, you may want to remove and inspect your injectors, fuel pump, and replace the sock on the pump. Go to a dealership and ask a mechanic to borrow his fuel pressure gauge. It will screw into the test port on the fuel rail. Run the gauge out of the top of the hood and tape it to the wiper arm so that you can read the gauge while driving. You should be reading about 25PSI under vacuum, 35PSI at WOT.
The fuel pressure varies a bit from car to car. Mine was 26 idle and 35 static. Back when I had the stock regulator.
This could also be a vacuum line problem. I replaced all mine back when I had similar problems and found that 11 lines were in bad shape.
I would check ignition, vacuum lines and fuel system.
Bought a new injector put it in. The car seemed to be smoother, but then when it warmed againg I started having bogging problems. I think I'm taking my car Honda shop next week and see what they can dig out.
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