Ok, my engine sometime "misses" when accelerating and so i decided to change my spark plugs, and while i was at it i changed my pcv thing. anyway, there was no change. in fact, it seems to spit and sputter even more now...coincidence im sure. anyway, i think maybe the next step would be to change the fuel filter? the spark plugs that came out of the motor indicated i was running a little lean. ive heard that a nasty fuel filter can cause hesitation and choppy acceleration. Sound like a plan? Is there anything else that could be causing this problem? Oh yeah, my engine ticks or snaps when you first turn it on before in warms up. Its kinda loud and random but constant. Then when the idle drops, it fades away. After driving around, it stops completely. I went to have my valves adjusted but they didnt do it cuz they said my valves were fine. What else could be causing this ticking, snaping noise?
no no! there's got to be a logical explaination and hence a cure! it didnt act like this when i bought it 7 months ago. it didnt do it till i added intake header exhaust.
well, I dont remember my engine doing it either when I bought it last year. and I only have a intake tight now don't know if it is also a coinsidence Either??
I have a si 2.3 also
it seems to me that when you start adding aspiration mods to the engine, it begins to lean out. and maybe this lean air/fuel mixture is creating this situation, hence a little more fuel in the mix would solve the problem. thats why i think the next step is to replace the fuel filter with a new clean one. might help a little. then if i still have the problem, a fuel pressure regulator seems like a logical next step.
Replace the fuel filter, distributor cap, rotor and plug wires.
I had the same problem and it turned out to be spark plug wires.
It is very unlikely the fpr went bad. Have the fuel pressure tested and you'll know for sure.
Since it started doing it even more since you replaced the plugs, I'm postive it's ignition related.
cool, thank you very much for your insight and advice. i'll do the things you mentioned and see where i stand after that. if it doesnt solve the problem, it still wont hurt anything.
Originally posted by vtecprelude Replace the fuel filter, distributor cap, rotor and plug wires.
I had the same problem and it turned out to be spark plug wires.
It is very unlikely the fpr went bad. Have the fuel pressure tested and you'll know for sure.
Since it started doing it even more since you replaced the plugs, I'm postive it's ignition related.
Exactly what he said. Although I doubt that you are running too lean with those mods. The stock prelude Fuel maps are VERY rich as it is. Fuel filter, dizzy cap, rotor buton, plug wires. this is basic tune up stuff. This should fix your hesitatyion problem. depending on Mileage, the Plug wires could be the big culprit. I was surprised to see how much these things leak, when the mileage really starts getting close to 100K. I could spray a mist of water on my old lude's plug wires at night and it looked like a cool light show boucing off of everyting. So, on when the magnecores, and fixed the problem.
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could you recommend a good set of (red) spark plug wires for around $50? Im thinking the accel ones. id like msd but do they make them for our cars? and my plugs looked slightly lean so thats why i say i think im running a little lean. ::
The Accel 300+ wires were the best I used while I had mine. Much better than stock, or the NGK's. They are available for around the price you mentioned.
Originally posted by Omega3001x could you recommend a good set of (red) spark plug wires for around $50? Im thinking the accel ones. id like msd but do they make them for our cars? and my plugs looked slightly lean so thats why i say i think im running a little lean. ::
justin
I don't know if there are any good red spark plug wires for that money, but what I do know the best ones are OEM proven on a dyno. If you really need the red one's spend extra and get Magnecore.
I don't know if there are any good red spark plug wires for that money, but what I do know the best ones are OEM proven on a dyno. If you really need the red one's spend extra and get Magnecore.
Any quality wire will be an improvment over a faulty set of wires. There is no difference between the OEM and a good set of magnecores. The only thing the OEM have going for them is build quality. Plug wires will never give you HP or TQ gains unless the ones you have are faulty. So the dyno really proves nothing. And on another note, stay away from gimmicks like Vitek wires. They will do absolutely nothing for you.
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My car runs kinda like that since i swapped in the h22. Its feels like at about 2500 rpms it kinda jumps up in power like when you turn off the a/c. I think tommorrow im gonna put in some fuel system cleaner. maybe get the fuel filter changed. Is it expensive to change that? because i never have.
Another common problem is the distributor timing. I was hesitating for months, replaced everything I could think of, nothing fixed it, but didn't think to check my timing. It turned out my timing was retarded, so I advanced it, hesitation completely gone.
i just changed out my plug wires for what was supposed to be the O.E. replacement ones by bosch. they didnt fit very good at all but that cured my problem! no more stumbling and "missing".
I have somewhat of the same problem, but from measureing voltage or resistance or whatever with a voltmeter, they came out fine. They went like 8, 10, 12, and 14 from shortest to longest plug wire. Should I replace them or no?
Originally posted by 4bidden I have somewhat of the same problem, but from measureing voltage or resistance or whatever with a voltmeter, they came out fine. They went like 8, 10, 12, and 14 from shortest to longest plug wire. Should I replace them or no?
This will not tell you anything. I did the resistance test on mine also they came out fine but they weren't. I would replace plug wires on any prelude that has 100k mil.
mine hesitates only in closed loop. i ran hard a couple times in open loop cold and she accelerates flawlessly. but once the circuits close the game changes. the hesitation is intermittant and can happen across the rev band.
so im looking at sensors and sensor circuits. i haven't been able try a known good distributor which is what i want to do. base timing is set and if i change it there is no change in hesitation.
basics that were mentioned above were replaced...so what do you think?
v
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