The nut on top of the SPC camber kit on both front left and front right is impacting the top of the wheel well. Anyone else have this problem? You can certainly hear it driving around, and it doesnt take a very large bump to do so. Only solutions I know of are cutting a hole in the wheel well which i wont do, or banging it up a little with a hammer to create more room. I'll choose the hammer.
I've heard of some civic guys having the same problem with Skunk2 upper control arms i believe.
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AIM: munscher
'93 Si | AEM | JDM | B&M | Optima | RS*R | GC | KYB | SPC | Kuhmo | Neuspeed | FMS | DC ................................. I Love My Job
i use spc as well how low is you front lowered anything greater than 1.5" s then yeah i would say that it would hit prelude wheel wells are close to wheel and thin
i just complelted my tokico illuminas shocks and skunk2 coilovers install this afternoon. i have front and rear camber kit, from ebay, my front is all the way down, and i have about 1/4 of thread on adjusters left for the rear. The rear is about .5 inches lower than the front, but its fine, i m still ridin it to see how i like b4 i get it aligned. my ride is pretty damn smooth, its amazing, no impacting of any kind its quiet and just amazing. my camber kits all set to maximum positive camber settings, all 4 wheels are straight, well visible to the eye. Ijust pulled all the A arms out and voila. It rides so awsome, whoa, i m amazed. I wouldnt recommend bangin or cuttin our car, just get another kind of camber kit. I was amaze to see that the ebay camber kits were cheap, but they ve worked for me for ever.
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I didnt take measurements before and after to gain any real idea of how much i dropped it with the coilovers. I can tell you that the SPC camber adjustments are about halfway out. My car is definately not slammed. I have about a 2 finger gap all the way around with 205/55/15 tires.
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AIM: munscher
'93 Si | AEM | JDM | B&M | Optima | RS*R | GC | KYB | SPC | Kuhmo | Neuspeed | FMS | DC ................................. I Love My Job
i measurered mine, i took my 17s off, so i m rockin the stock for now, untl all adjustments are made final, i m about 23 inches from the top of the middle of the fender to the ground in the front and bout 22.5 in the rear. and i m on the same wheel and tires set up u r on right now. Your camber kit shouldnt be impacting, unless its not properly torqued on the bottom of it, and inside the car, in the trunk and behind the rear seats. It should be tight on here, and properly torqued. The bolts i have holdin the camber kits up the A arm inside the car have this security thing on em for air tools, so i had to hand torque em pretty hard, so maybe you might want to check the torque of all 4 bolts holdin the camber kits, it might be why its a bit loose.
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If any pics I have posted in the past appear to be missing, it is because I changed domain names. The images are still available on my site. You will simply need to copy the old link of the image(right click on the red X or not found link and click view the properties of the image, or quote my post to get the URL), remove the gzone.homelinux.org part, and replate it with thegzone.net/old_site/. Thanks.
EDIT: just measured, front is at 24.25", rear is at 24.5"
I did them myself.... and i think its due to the way that the SPC ball joints attach to the control arm with the largenut on top. If i'm not mistaken, the ebay type you got are probably the anchor bolt type, right?
maybe i oughtta take some pictures.
Here's what I have...
So as you can see, this kit adds the nut on top of the outer part of the UCA, its no longer flat where the OEM ball joint was pressed in. So i lose about 1/2" of travel on the UCA.
I'm guessing the ebay type you have are anchor bolts more like this... in which case, you wouldn't have any of the same problems.
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AIM: munscher
'93 Si | AEM | JDM | B&M | Optima | RS*R | GC | KYB | SPC | Kuhmo | Neuspeed | FMS | DC ................................. I Love My Job
whoa, that tells me my car is real low hehe, i ll raise it up soon, i wanna align it while its real low and see how the camber numbers come out. Anyway, i have anchor on the rear only. The ones i have in the front are a different type. I m not sure what they are called, but they work real well. Its a piece kinda like a V that has holes on both sides on the top, and depending on which hole u decide to use and the direction, u have low or max correction. While i had my springs, i was on a low correction, since it was only 1.7, but now i just put it to max and my front wheels are str8 with 23 inches off the floor. I see your kit, but its weird that it impacts is there a way to twist it or something, i m clueless bout this, but keep me posted, i d like to know for fure reference.
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NOTE:
If any pics I have posted in the past appear to be missing, it is because I changed domain names. The images are still available on my site. You will simply need to copy the old link of the image(right click on the red X or not found link and click view the properties of the image, or quote my post to get the URL), remove the gzone.homelinux.org part, and replate it with thegzone.net/old_site/. Thanks.
i have the spc ball joints and they do not make noise --- I think the camber plate fits above the joint I can look do not know for sure --- you have to shoot the ball joints full of grease and tigthen them down i believe the nuts already have thread lock on them ....
it is am quessing a 1.5" drop with tein s spec springs and kyb agx shocks --- i wish the fronts were lower but it rides awesome and i love being able to conrol damping on the agxs .....
can you check the distance from the highest point on the wheel wells to the ground for me? that way i'll have a direct comparison. if you're just as low or lower and not having any contact, then im really confused.
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AIM: munscher
'93 Si | AEM | JDM | B&M | Optima | RS*R | GC | KYB | SPC | Kuhmo | Neuspeed | FMS | DC ................................. I Love My Job
alright munscher I went and measured my wheel well fenders from the highest point on the wheel well to the floor and i run yoko 205 40 17 inchers so if you have something bigger then you will have to adjust it... it measured 24 3/4 inch for the front and the rear I did notice something very interesting when I inspected the fronts -- i did most of the work on my lude except the shocks took it to a real good sponsored shop .... the wheel well for the fronts in order for the metal pieces of the ball joint to not rub it appeared that 4-5 inches of the inner wheel well was cut out in order not to rub you might want to check and make sure it isnt that because i believe it would make al kinds of noise if the inner wheel well plastic thingey wasn't cut hope this helps
thanks for the info, seems you're sitting at about my height... i'm aware that if the adjustable ball joints are slid too far out to compensate for camber that they will make contact with the inner fender lining. Mine clear the inside of this by a few milimeters right now, but thanks for the heads up just in case.
There are marks where the nut on top of the SPC unit clearly make contact with the top of the wheel well.
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AIM: munscher
'93 Si | AEM | JDM | B&M | Optima | RS*R | GC | KYB | SPC | Kuhmo | Neuspeed | FMS | DC ................................. I Love My Job
do you think it could be you re tires which are 15 incers mine are squat 205 40 17s compared to that what do you think about the thinker sidewalls could be pushing youre A arms up higher and causing them to hit the upper wheel well fender I felt mine and i have like 2-3 inches between the top of the ball joint and the fender ---
what type of struts do you run as well that could be something too
I run 17" inchers on 205 40 17 tires and tein s tech springs with kyb agx struts
That would give me a 23.9" diameter tire and you would have a 23.5" diameter tire, so i have .2" less clearance to start with for the UCA... shouldn't be a huge deal. I also have kyb agx shocks set at 4 (stiffest)
I don't think i can get my hand up in there while the car is on the ground, i'll have to check.
EDIT: my arm doesnt really fit in there, had to squeeze as best i could... but i'd say there's about 2" of static clearance. Maybe your stiffer TEIN springs are whats saving you vs. me.
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AIM: munscher
'93 Si | AEM | JDM | B&M | Optima | RS*R | GC | KYB | SPC | Kuhmo | Neuspeed | FMS | DC ................................. I Love My Job
yeah tein vs stock has a thrity percent higher spring rate which i quess could cause them to not rebound as much maybe you should try the ingalls upper a arm kit the bushing set --- that might take care of it.....
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