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Old 12-06-2008, 08:39 PM   #1 (permalink)
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soft brake pedal after legend conversion-- dunno what else to do--- help!

I recently did a Legend type 2 caliper conversion on my 92 Prelude Si. Did this when I did my 5 lug conversion.

Ever since, the brake pedal has a lotta play very soft.

I bleeded the brakes several times, with no luck. Then I had the dealer bleed it while it was in there for a few other things... still soft.

What can I do? What needs to be upgraded, what else can I do to just get rid of this soft pedal??

I will try steel lines but i have been told the difference will be minimal if anything.

If replacing master cylinders or other parts are whats in order to fix this, could you all recommend brands if aftermarket, or tell me where I can get the parts that I would need?

I'd really appreciate the help
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Old 12-06-2008, 09:10 PM   #2 (permalink)
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if bleeding didn't help....

is it soft all the time? was it soft before? when my master cylinder was going bad, it was real noticeable when it was hot outside, and not noticeable when it wasnt "hot" (your weather now)
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Old 12-06-2008, 09:15 PM   #3 (permalink)
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honestly can't remmber if it was bad before...

is tehre any other ways to test?

also anyone know if there is such a thing as an upgraded cylinder? jsut anything that will provide more pressure than an oem 4th gen prelude one?

aftermarket??

perhaps one from a legend??
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Old 12-07-2008, 04:40 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ludestarbai View Post
honestly can't remmber if it was bad before...

is tehre any other ways to test?

also anyone know if there is such a thing as an upgraded cylinder? jsut anything that will provide more pressure than an oem 4th gen prelude one?

aftermarket??

perhaps one from a legend??
There's not much of a test, other than the feel of the brake pedal. I havn't read anybody having problems with their brake master cylinders going out as soon as they do a brake swap.

It sounds like your brake master cylinder going out due to wear/age, and when you did the brake swap and got air in the brake lines, it pretty much sealed the deal. I learned the hard way when I tried to use an aftermarket one, only to find out that one of the nuts for the brake fluid lines couldn't screw in to the port b/c the hole was too small. Buy an OEM one.
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Old 12-07-2008, 06:42 AM   #5 (permalink)
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You DO have the calipes on opposites sides they're supposed to be on, right? i.e, the right on the left and vice versa. If you do, you need to flip the caliper up and hold the pistons with C-clamps while you bleed them. This took me a while to figure out.

If you did do this, I agree with the master cylinder. There's only so many parts that could be the culprit.
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Old 12-07-2008, 08:28 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I do have a small leak (I have to refill the brake fluid once every few months)-- the leak is right around the abs pump which I have a new one of but its too hard to get to and too expensive to replace through a dealer, so I figured I'd leave it for when I do my H22 swap.

I'm sure that that small leak can contribute but I iddn't think it would much so long as I keep the level full.
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Old 12-07-2008, 02:53 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I do have a small leak (I have to refill the brake fluid once every few months)-- the leak is right around the abs pump which I have a new one of but its too hard to get to and too expensive to replace through a dealer, so I figured I'd leave it for when I do my H22 swap.

I'm sure that that small leak can contribute but I iddn't think it would much so long as I keep the level full.
I think you just answered your own question then.
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Old 12-07-2008, 07:44 PM   #8 (permalink)
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not really, I'm no brake expert so the question is wouldd that small leak cause the play?
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Old 12-08-2008, 01:26 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Your small leak could lead to a lot of pressure loss. Your brake fluid is supposed to run through a closed system. If you have a leak...your system is no longer closed. Make sense??
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Old 11-27-2009, 04:04 PM   #10 (permalink)
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makes sense. thing is its such a small leak that sometimes the fluid level doesn't even decrease.

There was a time when I'd have to refill the brake fluid once a month or so, but that hasn't been the case for a while now. I dont think the link eliminated itself but at the same time if the fluid level hasn't changed, I dont know what else to derive from that.

I plan on getting some steel lines and replacing that ABS pump when the motor is out.
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Old 12-02-2009, 12:08 AM   #11 (permalink)
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When I put NSX calipers on my 4g, I too had more pedal travel than before. It took more of a push before the brakes started to work, I guess this is what you mean? I used the backing plate from an old brake pad to make a shim to correct the difference in rotor thickness between the 4g and the NSX (about 6mm iirc), I also put on Goodridge hoses at the same time and changed/bled the fluid completely. However, it still felt different to the stock set up, I still had to push the pedal a little further before it felt like the brakes were actually doing anything. I left it at that and just got used to it!! The brakes still worked well and would stop the car really well, so there wasn't a safety issue at all, I just simply got used to having to push the pedal a little more.

Hope this helps
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