The ECU is in "limp mode"... make sure there are no CEL's and that the engine is fully warmed up before trying to go over 6500. You'll go into "limp" if there is a CEL problem or if the engine is not warmed up.
Search for "Limp Mode" and you'll get a ton of info.
maybe he had msd ignition...it comes with small chips (that you can take out). If it is MSD ignition, its probably the MSD 6AL and there should be a small white chip sticking outside the ignition box with 6500 on the top. Pull that out and the rev limit will be set at stock. Again, thats only if he has MSD ignition..
thks for the infoo...he cant go pass 6500 while driving...he said he did hit vtec...
If there is no check engine light... And he should check to make sure that the light does in fact wink on for a sec when he start's the car. And this is key, cuz' some shops will happily just pull the bulb instead of fixing the underlying issues.
Then... There are some other problems that could cause the car to freak out and start pulling timing at a specific RPM. I don't know if this is really limp mode or not, as limp mode as far as I can tell will always come with a CEL (Check Engine Light).
I had two problems around the same time that caused something like this. I had an exhaust pipe that was deteriorating to the point that the fiberglass had almost completely plugged the canister (Yey DC sports!) and I had a loose ECU ground near the thermostat housing under the coil pack (PrecisionH23 suggested that I check this).
Your friend might also check and make sure that the oil pressure sender is connected properly. Same as the CEL, it (The Oil warning light) should go on momentarily at startup.
Hope some of this helps... Bottom line, more info would help.
^
The ground near the thermostat housing is a really good thing to mention because it becomes corroded very easily, and causes a lot of trouble if it looses its connection.
......................obviously if you didn't fix the initial problem first, this wouldn't help either
i'm guessing this is one of those ebay spoon ecus which aren't real and could potentially be dangerous to run, esp. if the swap wasn't installed right and/or there is something wrong with the engine
we can't help if you don't provide anymore information, i.e any cels? did you check if the wiring was done correct?
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"I am a ricer because I have Z3 fenders" Bless Her Heart ORG
yeah, i'm highly doubting this is a real spoon ecu. i only know of 2 people who have ever gotten the spoon program on their ecu... 4bidden, and i forgot who the other one was.
those spoon ecu's are even harder to come by than the JUN ecu's which when there is one for sale its around ~$600.
and like peter said, and i said earlier, you have to fix the problem first or else you're not going to see any difference when changing ecu's.
The ECU isnt the problem... its actually functioning as it should. To lower the rev limit to protect the engine since something else is obviously not right.
Swapping ECU's to solve the problem is like doing brain surgery to fix a clogged artery.
where is the msd ignition? cuz my friend has the same problem but his as an h23... all of a sudden there was a big pop in the engine and couldn't go passed 4000rpm and if he does go passed 4000rpm, the meter jumps like crazy.. what do you guys suggest the problem is? and if he keeps shifting above 4000rpm.. it a matter of minutes his car will start to turn off on him.. even while the car is running..
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