My h23 needs a lot of work My lude is in really bad shape :-(. Im considering a swap, and was wondering if anyone has a good hookup on a H22. If so what would it cost, with delivery and all? Also how hard is the swap if i do it myself, and how much would a shop charge?
Also how much could I sell my h23 for if I rebuild it after I pull it from the car? [Im just wondering if the benefits will outway the costs]. Also, how much faster would a stock h22 be than an h23 with i/h/e/pulleys?
Thanks, Jordan
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1999 Prelude Base (daily driver)
1992 Prelude Si 4WS (broken)
well i jsut recently did the h22 swap into my car that ahd a h23... teh diffrencei s amazing.. i went form running the best 16.9 with a h23 to a 14.924 with a h22... so you make the call... i sold my h23.. blown up... with no head for $700 with tranny so i dont knwo.. whata rebuilt one would be owrht
I agree, your H23 must have been in really terrible shape. I have a 93 lude with the H23 with only an air intake, header, muffler, and racing clutch, and i've pulled a 14.983 @ 99.8mph
oh yeah, by the way, that was with 135,000+ miles. If you want to pay thousands more for a 30hp difference, get the H22, if you want to turbocharge, and spend less should you need to replace the engine, get the H23. I honestly would keep my H23 even if somebody offered to give me an H22 because i plan to go turbo.
Go with an H22 if money isn't an issue. The H23 is a stroked, choked H22... You can put an i/h/e on it and still get your ass handed to you by a stock h22-powered 4th gen. With cams and gears you can get close... but why not just go with a drop-in with more potential?
Originally posted by PreludesR4Speed I agree, your H23 must have been in really terrible shape. I have a 93 lude with the H23 with only an air intake, header, muffler, and racing clutch, and i've pulled a 14.983 @ 99.8mph
I'd like to see a slip on that!!!
__________________ 1993 Prelude VTEC(a.k.a. GATOR)13.37@108mph
-JDM H22A(267whp/240tq)*100% TUNED*
--Coming Spring 2008: 300+whp and 12sec ET's on DRs---Stock Block! 1994 Prelude Si(a.k.a. SMURF)
-JDM H22A(187whp/152tq-@LL MoToR)*UNTUNED*
Originally posted by marcucci Go with an H22 if money isn't an issue. The H23 is a stroked, choked H22... You can put an i/h/e on it and still get your ass handed to you by a stock h22-powered 4th gen. With cams and gears you can get close... but why not just go with a drop-in with more potential?
I can vouch for preludeR4speed, you guys can choose to believe this or not but my friend with a 93 si had 90k miles, Aem cai, dc exhaust, aem pulleys and ONLY a AXLE back tanable muffler. He ran a 15.01 at Capital Raceway, Maryland.
So i think its possible to get the SI into the 14's with just the bolt ons.........
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i believe an h23 ran a 14.9 w/ i/h/e and a clutch.. w/ just intake and exhuast i ran a 15.3 w/ a 220 poudn guy in the car.. im also RIGHT at sea-level.. which might help.. but i just think alot of people can't drive. =] whats that saying.. out of 20.. 5 are above average, 5 are below. and 10 are normal.. those 5 can prolly do well.
Originally posted by marcucci Go with an H22 if money isn't an issue. The H23 is a stroked, choked H22... You can put an i/h/e on it and still get your ass handed to you by a stock h22-powered 4th gen. With cams and gears you can get close... but why not just go with a drop-in with more potential?
That's odd whenever I go to the track 5th gens run a few tenths slower. I don't know if you can concider it stroked to be that bad when it is a 100cc more. Also people with 429's stoked and boared to near 600 cu don't complain about how there stroke is longer.
Originally posted by neoekai I can vouch for preludeR4speed, you guys can choose to believe this or not but my friend with a 93 si had 90k miles, Aem cai, dc exhaust, aem pulleys and ONLY a AXLE back tanable muffler. He ran a 15.01 at Capital Raceway, Maryland.
So i think its possible to get the SI into the 14's with just the bolt ons.........
he could prolly get faster and budds creek because capitols track is trash
Originally posted by brendon2k I don't know if you can concider it stroked to be that bad when it is a 100cc more. Also people with 429's stoked and boared to neat 600 cu don't complain about how there stroke is longer.
Thats becuase the engine is designed for a different powerrange. For the low-mid powerrange the saying "there is no replacement for displacement" (i.e. dont most of those old american engines redline at about 5000-6000 rpm?) Honda engines are usually designed for higher poewr. Therefore you want the extra highend revving to make more power in the mid-high range.
Someone correct me if I am wrong...
-Jordan
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1999 Prelude Base (daily driver)
1992 Prelude Si 4WS (broken)
Originally posted by Jordan_4WS
I actually bought it like this from someone. Its just powdercoated though, and powdercoating shop should be able to do your valve cover no problem.
-Jordan
Well the engine with less stroke should have a higher redline and therefore more power if you want to look at it like that.
Well the engine with less stroke should have a higher redline and therefore more power if you want to look at it like that.
Basically as you increase the stroke you gain lowend torque, but loose highend power. Since Honda's have small displacement they really on high end revving. The S2000 has a short stroke, allowing it to make power really high (closer to a f1 engine). a chevy 400 has the same bore as a 305, but a longer stroke. It make much more power than the 305 becuase all the power is down low anyway. If a 305 was designed for a "high revving" application, the 400 would be worse because it would not be effective in this way.
-jordan
EDIT: This is all right out of an automotive engines book. This relates directly to the dynamics of an undersqaure and oversqaure engine... You might want to look up under and oversquare on the internet.
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1999 Prelude Base (daily driver)
1992 Prelude Si 4WS (broken)
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