I was taking apart my engine the other day, seeing what damage I had done to it. I may have allready posted that I had spun a bearing real bad. I was thinking that it could possibly be from over rev, but then I was thinking it could have been the oil pressure. When you take off the H23 head, you have to remove this oil reducer out of the block before you put the H22 head on. This drop in pressure in the bottom end, that is majorly feeding the top end we believe contributed to the spun bearing.
The H23 block and head is for sale if anyone is interested, and the H22 head is for sale. I also have an H23 DC sport ceramic coated header if anyone is interested.
thanks
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trying to hot rod a 120k engine apparently does not work
ive got a JDM H22 in it now, but it was such a waste in time in money to do this hybrid first. Another guy on PO (clint) just blew his up too. and his H23 only had like 25k on it. The mixture just doesnt work unless you build it up to take it.
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trying to hot rod a 120k engine apparently does not work
Look man if you over reved there is your problem, Vern and me have had ours for quite a while and not to many problems. There are a few bugs you have to work out over time, Although I don't have my lude anymore the guy that has it now loves it. If you treat your motor right there is no problems. I never went above 7200rpms and never had issues.
I don't know what the point of machining a "3" over the "2" on the h22 block would be. But yes, using an h22 block with h23 internals would be the same thing. As for the oil squirters, the reason that most people don't use them is clearance problems with the larger h23 crank.
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Originally Posted by ExodusFX
It doesn't matter what kind of icecream you get in Mochi. Why? Because Mochi is icecream wrapped in awesome.
no... i didnt forget to take the "oil control plug" out of the block. If i had forgotten to do that then vtec wouldn't have worked. I never took mine over 7500 rpms on the stock tach. So if it is 300 off than that would be 7200 rpms. Sik96prelude, didnt you build up your bottom end, mine was completely stock with 120k, i think that had a lot to do with it. there are people on this site that spin bearings on a stock h23 around that mileage.
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trying to hot rod a 120k engine apparently does not work
I had a h23/vtec and loved it and am building it again, i had completely stock internals, and it ran great, the only reason it broke was because I missed a shift, and spun to 10,000 and the funny thing is my h22 valvetrain is what messed up, my bottom end is fine, I think theres more opinion here than experience, to many bad rumors, this is a great hybrid, but i kinda like all the bad rumors floating around because that means that alot of people are too scared to do it, like sik said, if you take time to do it the right way wich means to rebiuld your bottom end first with fresh parts, and do not over rev the motor will last. I personally took mine to 7500. I got great power with just stock internals. I don't mean having to biuld it with all these crazy parts either, just new bearings, and what not. you can't expect putting any bottom end under almost twice the stress when it's already on it's way out.
But like I said it's cool that nobody wants to do it, that just means the rest of us that do do it will like it that much more.
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04 Ford Powestroke Diesel Crew Cab, Shortbed,4x4, SCT Tuner,with Tunes from innovative Diesel,4 inch Donahoe lift,ARP headstuds,AFE Stage 2 intake,MBRP 4 inch Exhaust,4:30 gears from unitrax,18 inch KMC wheels(black) with 35 inch Toyo M/T's.
440 whp 800 torque.
I just started the tare down of an h23a1 block today for my build up. I don't see why a built/balanced H23A1 bottom end wouldn't be able to handel the revs.. ? I planned on using a balanced H23A1 crankshaft (slightly shaved couterweights to clear oil squirters), all new bearings, crower pro billet rods(should come balanced, but I'll have the machine shop double check them) and oversized types pistons (balanced). I do not see why this setup wouldn't be able to withstand 8k rpm's ... correct me if I am wrong.
Think about the older big block engines, they put out HUGE torque because they had a very long stroke .. because of the stroke though, they couldn't rev them very high without breaking it .. ~5500 rpm ...
Although not on a huge scale our engines are the same, a longer stroke will be able to throw the balance off easier and cause some rocking ... I mean, in theory everything is great but .. there is that risk .... the stock engines are proven to last a long long time ... going hybrid presents a risk and a lot of ppl like their ludes as a daily ride for reliable cost and transportation..
Its pricey to build a proper hybrid with a re-built engine ... but just with all the parts it almost makes sense if you drop the bottom of a block from an H22, put in rods, pistons, crank from H23, remove oil squirters if clearance is needed .. and boom, hybrid. but I think its a solid rule to not go over 7500RPM, where Satan didnt obey that rule his engine toasted.. but he's hardcore and rev's high so hybrid just wasn't meant to be for him
At this point in time im thinkin for myself, H22 drop, maybe eventually higher comp pistons and type-s cams .. when I do the pistons we'll see how these new hybrid owners turn out .. I do love torque ..
well, I am building mine up right now. It should be ready to go soon but I am getting deloyed soon too, so I have to wait till April to get the swap done. I will keep you guys posted on what I think. I dont feel that I should have any problems seeing it will be fully built and balanced bottom end with the exeption of the rods that will be cyro frozen. I dont plan on runnig it past 7200 either, so like I said I will keep you guys posted when I get to do the swap!!!
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