Rear rotors are frustrating me... - Honda Prelude Forum

96LudeSR · 05-15-2006, 02:22 PM

Hey guys,

I am in the process of changing my rear rotors and pads, and I can't get the damn rotors off. I have an impact screwdriver and I hit it so many times, however the screws don't want to budge.

Is it safe to drill out the screws? Will this mess up the threads? I will be putting in new screws if I need to drill the old ones out, I am just afraid of messing up the threads and then not being able to install the new ones.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks.

prelude styl · 05-15-2006, 02:31 PM

If you can't get them off then just drill them out, it's not a big deal at all. And if you do drill them out, you don't need to worry about taking out the threads or anything, you can just drill the heads off and leave it like that. The screws serve no purpose other than holding the rotors to the hubs when the wheels are off. They don't do anything when your wheels are on the car, there is no need to have them.

G_Loc · 05-15-2006, 02:56 PM

Yup, the screws are useless. I drilled out the heads as much as i could then wedged in a flathead and unscrewed them.

rayslude · 05-15-2006, 06:18 PM

if you have access to an air compressor use it, that worked much better than an impact screwdriver...

G_Loc · 05-15-2006, 06:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rayslude

if you have access to an air compressor use it, that worked much better than an impact screwdriver...

air compressor to get screws off? Only if you're using an air chisel to loosen them up...

rayslude · 05-15-2006, 06:40 PM

no, air gun with screwdriver bit, low air pressure though, of course, it really doesn't matter if you strip them because you might be drilling them out if this doesn't work...

96LudeSR · 05-15-2006, 06:48 PM

Well the weird thing is that the last time I had taken my car to a garage to have them install my front brakes I remember them using just a ratcheting screwdriver which is basically a regular screwdriver to remove the front rotors and they didn't have a hard time at all. I do remember my rotors were hot when they did it, maybe this was a factor?

I drilled them out of one of the rotors and removed it. It's just very frustrating that I was not able to get it done the proper way.

G_Loc · 05-15-2006, 06:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rayslude

no, air gun with screwdriver bit, low air pressure though, of course, it really doesn't matter if you strip them because you might be drilling them out if this doesn't work...

Well the problem is that they strip too easily, not necessarily that they are too tight.

I was able to get 2 of them out from one of my rotors by banging on them with a hammer to loosen up the rust around them

96LudeSR · 05-15-2006, 08:32 PM

In my particular case they were just too damn tight. I hate it when you know the procedure for doing maintenance on the car, yet stupid things like this have to happen.

prelude styl · 05-15-2006, 09:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 96LudeSR

In my particular case they were just too damn tight. I hate it when you know the procedure for doing maintenance on the car, yet stupid things like this have to happen.

If you work on cars regularly you know this happens. Sucks, but it's part of workin' on a car.

red92s · 05-15-2006, 09:40 PM

I drilled mine out as well. If you are super concerned, you could replace them with something more capable of holding the torque, and something more rust resistant . . . like a stainless hex-head screw.

96LudeSR · 05-16-2006, 08:15 AM

Ok so now I got the rotor screws drilled out, yet I am having issues removing the clevis pin that holds the hand brake. We have very bad winters here so it is very rusted and I can't seem to get it out. What I don't understand is why Honda made a groove in the clevis pin which looks like it is deep enough to fit flat head screwdriver into it, however it's not deep enough and my screwdriver won't fit.

Do you think I would have success if I torched it?

Daemione · 05-16-2006, 10:35 AM

I wouldn't ever try any kind of air tool on those set screws . . . if they're really stuck (and they usually are), all that'll do is strip them & you'll just have to drill them out anyways.

Impact driver is the correct tool - but even with one, I've had to whale away on them for 100+ hits before those screws would budge.

And I actually prefer to use a new pair of set screws when reinstalling the rotor . . . Yeah, the wheel & lugs are what really hold the rotor in place, but I like the screws to make sure the rotor is perfectly centered on the hub while you're putting everything back together. And a decent blob of high-temp anti-sieze helps a lot when you go to get them out the next time (same goes for where the back of the rotor meets the hub).

A torch is handy for loosening some stuff - but not a great idea on the calipers or you'll melt the pin & piston boots.

KENLUDE97 · 05-16-2006, 11:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Daemione

I wouldn't ever try any kind of air tool on those set screws . . . if they're really stuck (and they usually are), all that'll do is strip them & you'll just have to drill them out anyways.

Impact driver is the correct tool - but even with one, I've had to whale away on them for 100+ hits before those screws would budge.

And I actually prefer to use a new pair of set screws when reinstalling the rotor . . . Yeah, the wheel & lugs are what really hold the rotor in place, but I like the screws to make sure the rotor is perfectly centered on the hub while you're putting everything back together. And a decent blob of high-temp anti-sieze helps a lot when you go to get them out the next time (same goes for where the back of the rotor meets the hub).

A torch is handy for loosening some stuff - but not a great idea on the calipers or you'll melt the pin & piston boots.

That is how it get it done as well it take a TON of hits but it does work. and LOAD IT UP WITH ANITSEIZE!.

Good luck, i know that it can be fustrating!

96LudeSR · 05-16-2006, 01:07 PM

Well here we go again, another problem. I drilled out the screws that were holding the rotor and now the rotor will not pull off the hub. This is getting ridiculous.

G_Loc · 05-16-2006, 01:57 PM

^^ use a rubber mallet or a hammer and a piece of 2x4.

Hit it in one spot, rotate it, hit it some more, rotate again. Eventually it will come off.

Daemione · 05-16-2006, 03:20 PM

If it's the stock rotor, there should be two holes where you can screw bolts in. Crank them each a turn at a time to gradually pry the rotor off the hub.

If you strip those bolt holes (or you're taking off aftermarket rotors which don't have them), this is where a torch can come in handy . . . heat the rotor up enough & it will expand, loosening up the corrosion & allowing you to separate it from the hub.

But bear in mind, rotors are designed to absorb heat, so it may take a LOT of torching. I've spent up to 20 minutes torching them before, & then used a 10-pound sledge to get them off.

G_Loc · 05-16-2006, 03:23 PM

^ The rear rotors have the holes, but there is nothing behind them, so screwing a bolt in there will accomplish nothing

jsmooney · 05-16-2006, 04:05 PM

i used a craftsman impact driver and it worked really well for this thing. but it is frustrating

96LudeSR · 05-16-2006, 05:03 PM

Well I finally managed to get the rotors off. However I am running into another problem yet again. I bolted in the caliper bracket and now I am in the process of installing the new pads. However the damn caliper housing seems way too tight when it goes over the pads. I've rotated the piston back in quite a bit. Just to give you an idea, my rotor barely turns and it seems like the pads are pressing against it when though I am not applying the brakes. What am I doing wrong?

By the way I really appreciate all of your help and I thank you for that.