I have been looking into doing a JDM H22 swap since August. I have gone through many thoughts and looked at many websites for the best prices, but this thread isn't about prices.
What I really want to know is this. I currently have a '95 Si with basic mods (I,E,ignition). The engine is running quite well but I am disatisfied with my top end. I basically want some more HP for better acceleration. My question is for those who have driven both the Si and the VTEC/JDM VTEC. How different is the car? Do you think it is worth the loss in torque to do the swap? Also, would driving a 5th gen give me an idea of what my car would feel like with VTEC. It is next to impossible to find a 4th gen VTEC around here to go and test drive to compare.
I have researched this swap so much it dominates a good portion of my waking thoughts. I have compared dyno plots and costs and am still not 100% decided on the swap. I have $1600 coming for my tax return plus a good amount I have saved up.
ok...ive had both motors..my car statred out as a 93 Si...first off your not losing tourqe, actually the JDM h22a has more tourqe its just at a slightly higher RPM..secondly, the difference in acceleration is night and day..i had i/h/e/and an AFC on my Si, and it was peppy, held its own...but still ran in the 15s...and had no real top end to speak of...now the same car with my JDM swap...has the i/h/e/vafc..that the Si had, but i added cam gears and a chipped ecu...now my car pulls crazy all the way to 8k....it runs in the 13s while thats not the norm for them too, it is possible, the JDM vtec will really increase your cars acceleration, and especially top end, it also runs very smooth, get good gas milage, assuming your not in vtec constantly...the swap is also very straight forward...the write up here in the FAQs is actually mine that was copied from another website and pasted here, so if you need any help with exact questions with the swap let me know...so if its a question of wanting better acceleration and way more top end, then your correct in wanting the JDM motor..peace bro
Yeah, like I said, I have been researching this since August. I have found that my car is prewired for VTEC so that will be a breeze. I am pretty much set on a swap with a LSD tranny. I decided long ago that if I don't get LSD I will just use the H23 tranny.
So I guess the JDM longblock with an ECU bolted to my H23 tranny is the way to go. Will be quite a bit cheaper too (always good ).
Do you know of a good way to get rid of the speed governer on the JDM ECU w/o messing with the fuel/timing curves? I don't really wanna mod the ECU much, just want to be able to go above 105 mph when needed.
if you dont wanna opt for the more aggressive ecu, get a USDM p13...also your gonna be a little slower with the h23 tranny, gear ratios arent quite as good...peace
That is kinda what I was thinking but the USDM ECU is set up for the 10:1 CR whereas the JDM has 10.6:1. The fuel maps will prolly be a little lean. Do you think it would be worth it to chip the ECU with a milder program. I need to still pass emissions and gas is expensive. What about Jet. They supposedly can do custom programs, or am I just nuts?
As far as the H23 tranny. I have tested the tranny and the upshifts don't drop the rpm's very far. I think I would still be able to stay in VTEC on the 1-2 upshift with maybe a little fallout. It also has longer gears so you have more time in VTEC technically. Either way I am not interested in racing it so I think I can deal.
your best best ecu wise is a GSR...chipped of course, this makes the most power...but a USDM ecu will not rob you of any more power, its the same as the JDM, except the JDM is set up to take advantage of the really high octane they use in japan...but you will notice no difference..peace
I think I am going to buy from hmotorsonline.com and get the LB with an ECU. I think he can hook me up with a USDM ECU. BTW, which one do you think will be cheaper?
Just keep the JDM P13 and get it chipped. My Spoon program works very well for all rpm levels. Yes, I dyno tested it, that's how I know
A guy local to me copied my program (real Spoon) and will chip peoples ecu's with it. One member here on the board noticed a big increase in midrange when he got his back a few days ago.
No adverse affects at all. It still runs all sensors also. Nothing is disabled on it. As long as you make sure you get a 2WS ecu, the program will work fine.
I think he charges $100-150. He does it at his work, AZ Race and Machine.
If and when you get the motor, let me know and I can hook you up with his number.
Bit more than expected but I will pay for quality. I will prolly be getting the motor in the next 3-4 weeks. We'll see. I have your e-mail so I will contact when ready.
Just to make sure, the spoon prog kills the governor right?
Thanks for your help.
P.S. This could be another item that Forbidden Motorsports offers. "Moderately priced ECU rechipping services"
I'm not positive about price, I'm sure 92H22A will chime in when he sees this on how much he paid.
Yes, it kills the governor. I think I've hit 130 with it installed. Me no likey high speed runs. I'd rather take a hard turn at 70. Damage done to a car goes up exponentially with speed.
getting that ECU will work for you....ubt ill never own a diff ECU..of course its nothing that can be bought, seeing as it has been tweaked from the specs it started with, but my secondaries are open all the time, still pulls all the way through the rev range...and only my EGR is not run with my ECU al my other sensors do, and the knock sensor really kinda sucks, it doesnt really do much, except let you know when your a moron and mess up your tmiing or put low grade gas in your car..lol...my only advice to u is to get the vtec tranny, unless u cant afford it...peace
the *smart* thing to do would be to invest in a good, used Nitrous kit and spray like a 60 shot.. a 60 shot h23 beats a h22 with i/h/e no prob. Then when youre engine blows, do the swap. Problem is my engine isn't blowing.. When i went to visit wreckdiver, we did a compression test and it was 230 across the board, higher compression than the factory recommends.
I decided a long time ago I am not going to touch nitrous. That stuff scares me silly. Plus I want the always on power rather than just when I hit a button. I don't want to do this to win in races, I just want a little more top-end.
Looks like best price for a LB is hmotors. I have found three local importers but they are asking aroung $1500. I think I might be able to talk them down though. I do have a dilema though. I have heard excellent things about hmotors and would buy from them in a heartbeat if it weren't for the shipping. If I can talk one of the locals down to match hmotors price should I go for that or get from hmotors? I will have compression tests for any engine I buy.
Originally posted by Zimmlude I decided a long time ago I am not going to touch nitrous. That stuff scares me silly.
To say you dont want to go the Nitrous route is cool.. but to say it scares you silly tells me that you know nothing about Nitrous except for what you saw on TFATF and the rumors from other uneducated people.
I do know a considerable amount about nitrous and how it works. The reason it scares me is that there is too much possiblity for one mistake to lead to a good deal of money. As far as personal safety is concerned I am not that worried.
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