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Old 04-11-2009, 03:34 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Questions, advice, whatever, I'm just curious...

Ok I'm driving a 1993 Prelude S, modified with a computer and engine from a 1996 Accord - an F22B1 motor with a few bolt-ons. (the guy who did the engine swap put in the car what he had at the time).
In the last 6 months, I've had to put a new automatic transmission, new axles with CV joints, a new temp-coolant sensor, a new wiper motor, and other random parts on the car, so I've had my issues with it. However, I love the car and I'm planning on making a serious project out of it.
First, how much power capability am I gonna lose if I build the F22B1 VTEC that's in it versus swapping in either an H23 or H22... I can get an H23 that is burning oil for $125 cash right now...
Secondly, how complicated would an automatic to manual transmission swap be, and how much should I expect to spend. I prefer a manual transmission, but when I replaced the auto I was relatively strapped for cash. (I've got a good Honda guy locally who is rather affordable on labor, for stuff I can't do myself)
Thirdly, and most pressing at the moment, I'm about to sand and paint the car myself. The question at hand is, what are the non-metal accent pieces of the car made of, the bumper covers and whatnot, and how much pressure can I put on them while sanding without taking pieces OUT of the body itself. Also, I've seen 4th gen 'Ludes with accord front lips on them and such, how workable is that, since I've got access to a 96 Accord for engine and whatever else I need for some parts (the "donor" car for the engine)
Now let's go ahead and say - I'm not great under the hood of a car. When it comes to taking stuff off and putting it back on, I can usually do whatever needs to be done with the help of my Haynes repair manual; however... the Accord to Prelude motor swap that already exists has been rather complicated... least of all it seems that the guy who did the swap didn't swap the wiring harnesses out when he did the computer and everything else - the VTEC isn't working properly, more than likely because it's directly wired from the module to the solenoid, and controlled by the computer directly, with an APEXi VTEC Controller wired in.

And before anyone tells me - buy another one, get rid of this one, and start over; I can't right now, I've still got an extra year plus of payments to make on it, so I'm doing the best I can with what I have right now, thusly the fact that I'm taking it slow... but I DO wish I'd bought the 99 I found a week after buying this one, manual transmission, H22, and less than 43k miles on it.
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Old 04-11-2009, 05:21 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Your F22 is SOHC, correct? In stock form, they don't make much power..
If you're wanting to build the F22, I'd personally do a G-Series Hybrid Build.. It uses the F-Series Bottom end, with an H-Series Cylinder Head. One build made 200whp and 183wtq, using only OEM parts.. That's more than a bolt-on H22. And that build was Non-VTEC.

You should expect to pay around $1,000++ depending on the Transmission you get for the Manual Swap.. And if you do it yourself or not..

Some Accord models Front Lips can be modified to fit, but I'm not sure which ones..

I'm confused on how you're describing the VTEC Wiring though..
Does VTEC Engage? Is it wired correctly to the ECU?
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Old 04-14-2009, 12:37 PM   #3 (permalink)
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The VTEC module is wired through the computer, which is swapped to a compatible computer for the F22, unsure which one to be honest, but the VTEC isn't wired through the wiring harness, so it's not engaging properly. and I don't have the tools or the time to rewire the harness, since I don't know how to get to it. I found a guide on here with the proper pins and whatnot to add it, but I can't do that right now... the guy who did the swap told me that the VTEC is wired straight off the ECU, and it's got the proper solenoid, which has a wire grounded off the thermostat housing as was recommended by a guide I read online. However, he straight-wired the whole thing on the VTEC, bypassing the wiring harness somehow. Whatever the case, since the rest of the car has the H23 parts on it, apart from the wiring harness, and it's mated to an H-series tranny, I'm probably gonna just grab an H23 and build it, and drop it in - I've got a guy offering to buy the F22 to drop in a CRX, and I'm gonna see what I can get done there.


Oh and now I've got a problem - any good guides online to replacing the ignition lock cylinder? I know it's got breakaway bolts holding it to the steering column... but I have NO idea how to do the job other than I was prepared for that little fact. Am I gonna need a special tool to pop the spring restraining pin that holds the cylinder in place, or can I use a small awl or pick on it?
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Old 04-15-2009, 02:08 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I don't see the issue with wiring the VTEC Solenoid straight to the ECU...? This is what it most likely the only way you can do it.. It shouldn't hurt anything to by pass the harness and go straight to the ECU.

The best guide will probably be the Helms.. It's possible to download them offline.. I don't have links right now, I'm not at my home computer...
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Old 04-15-2009, 09:34 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Old 04-17-2009, 05:14 PM   #6 (permalink)
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ok next question - the car has an APEXi VTEC AFC on it... so theoretically I can modify the engine's VTEC engagement at different RPM's, so that it switches from low to high cam at a different RPM band. The engine is basically stock, it just has aftermarket headers and exhaust and an intake....
I want the VTEC to kick in at a lower RPM, but I'm not certain about changing the settings thanks to the warning in the PDF manual I looked at that warned against it. The current settings are
H-L - 6100 RPM
L-H - 5200 RPM
what would be an agreeable setting to change this, if it is doable, and how will this affect my power output and fuel economy? And what else would I need to change to make this work - i.e. the other VTEC setting on the controller that changes the fuel management when a differential exists...
In case you can't tell I'm a novice when it comes to more delicate automotive workings - this is my first experience when working with a tuner car, so have patience plz lol.
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